andy65b

The car is not there today, it will back mid week. Cheers Andy

+ 1 on the BS call. But here is the link the WA Dept of Transport ruling on alternate wheels. http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/1884.asp

Where is the dealer. I may have time tomorrow afternoon. And back on the topic I am 6'3 1/2" and slim and have no problem fitting in the car. It is a very nice driving position. Cheers Andy

Hi Guys I am looking to upgrade my rotor on my car from R32GTR rotors (296mm) to R32GTR 324mm ones. I am trying to find the right adapter plate to use for the stock R32GTR calipers. Does any one know if an adapter plate for 300ZX Z32, from the US would be compatible with the R32GTR? Now I know I don't have an R32GTR but the M35 is a perfect fit for the R32GTR caliper and rotors and these are already mounted on my M35. Any help on this would be appreciated. Cheers Andy

I used PlastX, I think it is Maguires. I used it on the headlights no problem and made a big difference even I didn't think they were that bad. I also used it on the plastic on the C piller behind the back door on a M35 and it did a good job. It had been scratched by someone using a polish for paintwork on it and it removed a lot of the dullness and it got some although I think with a another go it will be even better. I have not used it on any internal surfaces. Cheers Andy

No, he is getting the Silver Axis.

When I changed my plugs I pulled out 5A's and my car ran fine. I just put in the Iridium tipped 6A'-11 and when we checked the gap they were 0.9mm anyway. You should be fine.

The standard muffler is huge, it sits just in front of the rear axle. He mentioned that your dump pipe did not have the mount to chassis supporting it, but i showed him my dump pipe now and he knows what I was talking about.

Beau was telling me about your car this morning and I think there are a few shots of your dump on this thread. He was saying that the set up on your car was a bit different to mine when he got it, like it as not quite factory and had already had some exhaust changes done.

Is yours a white M35?

Yes, if it was not dropped you would really struggle to get to the O2 sensor and the top nut. I forgot to mention. You should loosen the nuts holding the air box before dropping the gearbox. Cheers Andy

I get mine serviced at North Shore Prestige and costs about $240 a service. But they are on the Northern beaches. That said, you could do it yourself very easily. All you need is 4.7L of fully synthetic oil (5w - 30w, i believe is best), a new oil filter and either a replacement pannel filter or get your self a filter that can be cleaned. A set of car ramps would be enough room to get under the car and remove the under tray, and oil filter. Check your pads and look for any leaking lines. Get the car serviced by Nissan every 30k or so so they can plug their machine into your car for diagnostics. The timing belt only needs to be tensioned at the 100k so not that hard. Cheers Andy

Hi Guys I managed to get access to a hoist and some help (thanks Iain & Ben) on Saturday so decided to install the new dump pipe. I was fortunate that I was able to talk to Jetwreck who had taken out his turbo himself and could give me some advise on how to get it out. He described working on the turbo and dump like, like working on a ship in a bottle and he is not wrong. If you want to do this your self you need a hoist. I could not image doing this on the ground. To get access to the nuts on the top of the dump you will need to. * unbolt the exhaust from the dump pipe. * unbolt the tail shaft at the back of the gear box. * undo the bolts that keep the pipes for the attesa system in place around the tail shaft. * undo the 4 bolts on the gear box cross member and lower the gear box by about 2-3 inches. (watch the Atessa pipe as you do this) You will now have a tiny bit of access to the dump pipe but it is still ridiculously tight. To undo the nuts on the dump pipe you will need a variety of tools from ring spanners to sockets with 1 - 2 uni joints and very long breaker bar. The bottom nuts are the easy ones but the top 2 on the passenger side are hell. We got the dump off in 2 1/2 hours. When you remove the original dump you will need to remove the support bracket on the exhaust end and reuse on the new dump. This support is spot welded to the dump and requires a bit of work to get it off. This bracket supports the exhaust joint and is threaded so the original bolt can be used to join them. With out this support your exhaust will flex. It took only 1/2 hour to put the new one back in. One thing to be aware of is that the nuts from the factory have a large flange on bottom edge and there are 1 - 2 nuts that need to be replaced with a nut that has little to no flange to fit on the new dump. The O2 sensor is a bit of a pain to get out and put back in but patience and little hands will do the trick. Bolt it all back together and you are set. (Iain may be able to post up some pics later on the difference between the 2 pipes) The results and defiantly one of the best bang for you buck mods. The car feels more responsive to the throttle, is spooling up up earlier in the rev range. I am seeing full boost (14psi) from just over 2500 rpm. The results off the mark are well worth the effort. The noise of the exhaust is a little louder and the exhaust note is a little deeper. You hear a bit more turbo whistle. But I am a happy boy with the results.

The M35 has a single button that is a rocker type switch. One way gives Syncro mode, which is 50/50 split but only to 40kmh. The other way is Snow mode and this does the same as Sncro but also makes the car start in 2nd gear, limits boost and cuts out at 40kph.

that photo is of the Turbo rear bearing, not the Drive shaft or tail shaft.

Snow mode makes it start in 2nd gear and reduces boost and drops out above 40kph.

If you drive the car in Syncro or Snow mode on dry hard surfaced roads the car will shudder like hell when you turn the steering wheel. That is the dif locks going "shit" the wheels are turning at different speeds. Yes, very normal. If it does it when you are NOT in Syncro or Snow mode it is a problem. Cheers Andy

How did you go fitting the rears? Will they fit?

Your a clever feller finding these. The cost is pretty good also as I paid about the same cost including freight to get these made locally.

WTF..... 4 cats? I only HAD 2. now 1 less.

Have a look at the attached link. This is what one of the guys with a M35 did and the brakes between the 2 models are very similar. But yes, should be possible. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...io-t288150.html Cheers Andy

I did mine at 86k and they had probably already been replaced as they were temperature 5 plugs, not the 6 that are the normal factory one. I put in NGK Iridium's, IX LFR6AIX-11, this plug is meant to be a 1.1mm gap and our cars need ideally a 0.9mm gap but when they arrived they were all gapped at 0.9mm so they were perfect. I bought mine from Perfomance Lub and they were very helpful and the price was great. http://www.performancelub.com/NGK%20pricelist.htm

I can tell you he has taken it for a drive and is very happy with the result. I am sure he will post up all the info very soon.

It was 2 hammers wasn't it? LOL I saw Iain's M35 plus a nice White ARX.

Not quite the same. No LSD on the Axis.