andy65b

OK, Sydneykid can do a group buy if enough people will do it. He will have them made to the specs he previously posted. So if you want the 30mm front and 27mm rear, Pm Sydney kid. Cheers Andy

Glad to hear that you problem is now sorted. My car was doing similar things. The only mistake I did was had 2 things done at once. TB cleaned and TPS reset. I don't know which solved the problem but my car idles a bit fast at around 775 - 825. I wish I could get it down. I might do the TB clean this weekend if I get a chance. The inlaws are visiting over the weekend this sounds like a great reason to be working on the car. LOL

I have sent Gary a PM to see if he can give any clarification. Mine were made in April 08, so maybe they all became light weights and reduced the specs. I don' know? LOL Will let you know when I hear back. Cheers Andy

Congrats on the purchase. Make sure you get the big sway bars.... LOL Cheers Andy

Ok, It is wet in Sydney so I have done the best I can tonight without getting soaked getting under the back of the car to check the rear. The Front is 30mm (measured with calipers) as I originally advised and am confident to say the rear's are also as advised 27mm. Gary (Sydneykid) is very accurate with his information and is very care full to ensure the correct information is posted and the right item was built to improve the car. Yes, solid is stiffer than hollow. Gary is no longer running Selby so maybe some "ass monkey" (love this term) has decided in their wisdom to reduce the size to save cost or they are just wrong. If you are going to upgrade I would recommend going with Gary's original specs. Tell Selby they have it all wrong.......LOL

thanks, found it. I thought it was a summary screen on all bidders then I realized you had put that shot together. I would agree that the 2 highest bidders look a bit sus. But that said, good luck to them as it is not my money spent on that car.

that's a little more than Sydneykid was quoting when he first did mine. I think the quote was about $460 for the set then. Cheers Andy

The names mean nothing anymore, they are randomly assigned but consistent to the same person. How did you get all that history? Cheers Andy

mmmmmm. Interesting. Mine are Selby's. That information must be wrong. Why would they offer sway bars that are lighter than factory? Give em a call. Have a read of the thread writen by Sydney kid, the link is Iamhe77 post above. They took mine off my car the work out what to make. (mine are the prototype) Look at the group buy as this will be the best way to get them.

Well...well....well.

wow...... they have you bluffed that it "is all tested" LOL. They probably do it no different to how it is done here. But it is your $ and you may spend them as you please.

Now you guys are becoming Jap part crazy. Just because they come from Japan does not make them better (or cheaper). You have a locally made part that is perfect for our car at a far cheaper price. Cheers Andy

You will not be disappointing with the upgrade of the swaybars. Jetwreck has driven my car and noticed the extra response in turn in, plus making the car very balanced. It is the bang for buck you will spend on your car. You can check if they are standard by measurement. Stock is Front = 29mm hollow, Rear is 24mm hollow. The replacements are Front = 30mm solid with 3 adjustments, Rear = 27mm with 3 adjustments. Cheers Andy

I was guessing the other day on a mates car that ACCS3 was either Reverse camera or Radar cruise? Cheers Andy

That guy is dodgy, read the questions to the seller at the bottom of the ad. As soon as someone asked the key question about weather it was an insurance write off or statutory write off he goes all difficult and avoids the question.

Ok, I have been informed that I have made an error in judgement....... Damnnnnnnnn (I wish they were wrong) $650 - stock rebuild (bushed) $1250 - High flow (bushed) or go the duck nuts the way Craig went. Doh.

You may doubt and you will be wrong. The ball bearing rebuild is a lot more complicated as the case has to be ground to adapt to the bearing they use. I have discussed this at length with Craig as I will be going down the $650 high flow path. Cheers Andy

$650 is a high flow rebuild with bushes / Journal Bearing (yes, one and the same) My understand is that price is a full rebuild with high flow. Craig may be able to expand further. Cheers Andy

heheheheheh..... LOL Manged to get a mate to stick it in his airfreight and save some money.

Another interesting article on the ball bearing v busing discussion. http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0405tur_...rt_1/index.html Cheers Andy

I thought it was around that price but I did not want to under quote. I found an interesting post on the Silvia WA site by "Alex". There is always a discussion in regards to ball-bearing vs. non-ball bearing turbochargers and the performance and reliability aspects of one to another. Question: Everyone is asking about ball-bearing turbo's and do they spool quicker than non-ball bearing turbo's. Should I pay the extra $425 which is the difference between a non-ball bearing RPS turbo kit and a ball-bearing unit? ANSWER: All right! This question has been asked many times and I have yet to answer, so here goes. The main factor that determines when a turbo will start to spool hard is the A/R of the exhaust housing. On a side note, the weight of the exhaust wheel is a factor, i.e. a ceramic wheel. Unfortunately ceramic wheels are very, very expensive and are not readily available in the sizes we need. Everyone needs to remember that a turbo is basically just like a kid's pin wheel that you can hold out a car window and make spin. If you increase the velocity of the car (i.e. the exhaust going into the turbo) the wheel will spin faster. If you put your hand behind the pinwheel, the wheel will slow down because air cannot flow though it. Let's talk about an engine running at 3,000 RPM, full throttle. The engine will produce a constant amount of exhaust gases as long as the RPM is held constant. So the only way to spin our "pinwheel" faster is to increase the velocity of the air. The only way to increase the velocity of the air is to use a smaller A/R ratio. The problem with too small an A/R ratio is that it will choke off air flow at higher RPM. This is why matching the turbocharger's size, CFM, exhaust back pressure vs. intake pressure, and A/R ratios is so important. The ball bearing option was developed to improve the reliability of high output turbos. When high boost is used, there are great stresses on the centre housing bearings to keep everything in place. The ball bearing option is a great way to handle these added stresses and improve reliability. As a side effect of using the ball bearing option, drag cars saw immediate improvements in et's. The reason for this is the ball bearing improved the rate of acceleration of the exhaust wheel, thus boost. Remember, the A/R ratio determines when the boost will start, a freeing spinning wheel (less friction with the ball bearing) will make the boost rise at a faster rate. It's that simple. The A/R ratio determines when, the friction in the bearings affects how fast. NOTE: If you plan on running your car hard with boost in the 23+ psi range we recommend for longevity purposes the ball-bearing option. Also, if you are a serious drag racer and want to squeeze out those better ET's that are associated with quicker spooling then this is a good idea. If you just want a fast street car that runs most of the time at 20psi or less on normal fuel, then the non-ball bearing option is a good one for you. A bit more food for thought.

I have just bought a second hand turbo from Japan that should be here in the next week. I will be going through the same exercise to work our what to do to it but just to add my 2c worth (my opinion is not worth as much LOL). Iamhe77 (Cameron) in Vic had his turbo high flowed over 12 months ago, he is not sure of the internals but it did not cost over $1k and on that basis I am reasonably sure that he has bushes in his turbo. He has been very happy with the upgrade. Jetwreck (Craig) did a fairly bold up grade to his turbo and has huge power at the same boost level in the higher revs. He does not have the power down low at the moment and he believes this is more to do with his exhaust and need of tuning for the new turbo than anything else. We should know the result on the exhaust in the next 2 weeks. I believe the cost to high flow the turbo through Craig's tubo builder with the bushes is closer to $750 and this is with metal impeller. 1) We know the ceramic Impeller is a weakness (has to go). 2) We know a bigger hole will help boost but may mean at slightly higher RPM. 3) The M35 turbo is ball bearing which is unusual for OEM turbo's. This was done for a reason and may be why the car has so much torgue. Having heard Craig's ball bearing turbo I can see what you pay for. You can hear his turbo spinning after the car is turned off. I think we need some dyno figures to work out the best option. I am getting lost....

Unfortunately not. Ben had other plans and not able to make the meet.

I don't think that is the problem. I think that writing says that the Nvigation disc is not in the DVD rom. My screen says the same as I took my disc out for a while. It has to be a setting some where as it was obviously working not long ago. Do you know if it was working when you took delivery? I think it will be one of the settings in the VICS menu's but just not sure where to look yet.

WTF.................. Why does this stuff keep getting listed? Just to stuff up the innocent.