falcon

I need to know what the spline count is on the r32 Gts-t r200 vlsd diff. I bought an s15 HLSD but it did not come with the 30 spline output shafts. I've gotten some info that the r32 GTR output shafts are 30 count on the spline but I need to know if my gts-t ones are as well. I already know that the gts-t has a 13mm ring/pinion unlike the usdm 240sx which most of the guys swap the hsld into. they are the ones having the problems with the output shafts. if anyone has one lying around from a r32 gts-t can you count the splines on the shaft. thanks.

How stiff were you? I don't mind doing a 5mil pull but that is kind of my limit. I'm starting to think it may be better to run 245's. The Direzza's fit wide like an rt-615 so that may be enough. I just want to squeeze in as much tire as I can because I'm tired of understeer and loosing. I drove a BMW 328is with 285 Hancook's with the same suspension settings... and WOW. For a less powerful car I shaved 4 seconds off my time.

So I am just about to pick up some second hand wheels for track/autoslalom use. They are the good old 5zigen Fno1r in 17x9 +35 all around. Now the tires the previous owner was running were 235/40's and he said he had no problem fitting them without a roll. Now I want to move up a bit in size, and I was thinking of some new Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs in 255/40/17. I know they will fit the wheels no problem, as a matter of fact this is pretty much the proper size for a 9" wheel. Are there any guys running this same set-up (dosent matter what model tire, just the tire size) and if so how much rolling was needed? Light... heavy... or even a pull/flare? As for suspension, I am running KYB Climb Gear shocks (very stiff) with RS*R springs (about a 1.5-2'' drop). Settings will be back at -3 for camber in the front with a -1.5 in the back. Castor will be set to +6ish. Am I really far off or is this doable with a light roll? I don't want any rubbing because it's going to be a competition AutoX wheel/tire setup. Here is a photo of the wheels on the old owners car with 235/40's. Here is my car currently running stock Gts-t wheels with 215/45/16 Falken RT-615 tires, is it doable? THANKS!

ok, so 265's are a little on the big side. now I wanted to keep the sizes all the same so I would be able to rotate them to save some cost, but if it's best I could go staggered. Now thinking, 17x9.5 with a 245 or maybe a 255 (I don't mind the work to get them to fit as the car is being painted soon.) and 17x8.5 with a 235 in the front. What are your camber settings with the gts-t gaurds with the 215 tire? Because I have a 215 now and there seems to be a LOT of room for extra.

So I want to buy some new rims and run slicks for autocross and track days. I DON'T want to have the JDM stretch tyre look. Preferably I want to run at least 265/40(or35)/17s all around. All the offset threads are for the "coolest" looking wheels with like 215 or 225 tyres. Does anyone have any advice on rims size/offset to be able to run a wide slick? I've researched that you can fit a 275/40/17 on a 9" rim, but what will I need to do to the car to make them fit? How much of a pull/flare will be needed on the rear, and if I absolutly HAVE to I can source some GTR front guards, but I would prefer not to. Right now I am thinking the 5zigen fno1r because it is well priced with 9 or 9.5" all around with a +15 in the rear and +25ish in the front. My suspension is set up to -3.5 camber in the front, -1.5 rear, 1/8'' toe out on the front with neutral toe in the rear. All this for a 92 R32 gts-t. Thanks!

Here is a quick DIY to bypass your factory amp in the rear of the car. First things first, you will need the following to do this. wire cutters saudering iron (not needed but reccomended for a clean install. electrical tape or heat shrink tube 1) Disconnect the white clip in the back of the factory amp. The amp is located underneath the rear shelf in the trunk. It's a bit tight to get in there but get used to it because you will be there for a while. My amp looked like this (1A) but I've heard they come in various sizes. Use your common sense here and you will be able to find the right one. 1A 2) Next, we will be cutting the wires one by one on the back of the clip and attaching them togethor (DONT DO THIS YET!!). Now to attach them, you can sauder or twist them or use butt connectors... whichever you feel like doing. But make sure the connection is solid and won't come apart. Refer to this picture for the following steps!! Now make sure your clip is facing the same way mine is. Look carefully at the notches in the picture and the direction of the holes. THIS IS VERY IMPORTAINT! Also I would suggest doing this 2 wires at a time, so you dont loose track of which wires are which. 3)First two wires to cut are the numbers 1 and 3. Cut them, and sauder the ends togethor. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on before you sauder. 4)The next two wires are numbers 6 and 8. Again, cut them off at the back and attach them togethor in your chosen method. 5)Next two wires are 2 and 4. Cut them, attach them togethor. 6)The last two wires are 7 and 5. Attach these two togethor. You should have a few wires left over but we are only concerned about 1-8. Don't worry about the numbers 9-12. Just cap them off so they can't touch anything. If you followed these instructions correctly, your amp is now bypassed. Have fun listening to music through good speakers. :-D

Here is a quick DIY to bypass your factory amp in the rear of the car. First things first, you will need the following to do this. wire cutters saudering iron (not needed but reccomended for a clean install. electrical tape or heat shrink tube 1) Disconnect the white clip in the back of the factory amp. The amp is located underneath the rear shelf in the trunk. It's a bit tight to get in there but get used to it because you will be there for a while. My amp looked like this (1A) but I've heard they come in various sizes. Use your common sense here and you will be able to find the right one. 1A 2) Next, we will be cutting the wires one by one on the back of the clip and attaching them togethor (DONT DO THIS YET!!). Now to attach them, you can sauder or twist them or use butt connectors... whichever you feel like doing. But make sure the connection is solid and won't come apart. Refer to this picture for the following steps!! Now make sure your clip is facing the same way mine is. Look carefully at the notches in the picture and the direction of the holes. THIS IS VERY IMPORTAINT! Also I would suggest doing this 2 wires at a time, so you dont loose track of which wires are which. 3)First two wires to cut are the numbers 1 and 3. Cut them, and sauder the ends togethor. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on before you sauder. 4)The next two wires are numbers 6 and 8. Again, cut them off at the back and attach them togethor in your chosen method. 5)Next two wires are 2 and 4. Cut them, attach them togethor. 6)The last two wires are 7 and 5. Attach these two togethor. You should have a few wires left over but we are only concerned about 1-8. Don't worry about the numbers 9-12. Just cap them off so they can't touch anything. If you followed these instructions correctly, your amp is now bypassed. Have fun listening to music through good speakers. :-D

It would be interesting and original to say the least. but I can also see it being A LOT of custom fabbing. The cars are different platforms so it will be hard I would thing.

The vents are always raked towards the rear of the car. If you install them towards the front they will eat your pads much faster.

yes they are all the same. but make sure you get one with an antenna in it or you wont have any radio reception.

I purchased a set of Tein Adjustable tension rods online and asked for the s13 ones because they are the same as the R32 (Gts-t). Well I got them today, but on the box it says they are for an s14/s15/ECR33. Did they send me the wrong ones? or are s13 and s13 tension rods the same and it dosent matter? Here is what they look like. Also here are two links. One shows the S13 ones and one shows the S14 ones. They both have different manufacter part numbers, so it makes me belive they are different.? I have been told by a few people they are the same on GTRCanada, but I need to double check and have some clarification. http://www.modyourcar.com.au/tein-pi...lvia-s13-p4985 http://www.modyourcar.com.au/tein-pi...00sx-s14-p4986

cool, thanks I will try that one. Hopefully it works... it's the red with the blue strip I belive... yes?

Ok, so far I have not been able to make it work. I have tried to attach the white illum. wire to the headlight switch, the little light that's by the ignition, the illumination wire on my headunit and also the one on the climate control (red/blue? is this correct?) Anyhow, I am getting annoyed because I can seem to figure this junk out. Does anyone else here have Defis? And where did you attach your white illumination wire?

Optima Redtop. There is no "correct" battery, but I use and Optima (not sure if you can get those in Australia... I'm in Canada) But it is a great battery that always fires my car up in any temp.

Kinda O/T... but what kind of wheels are those? And what offset/wheel size?

do you remember which color wire you tapped into? THats where I hooked up my daytime running lights (needed in Canada).. and used the yellow wire. Is it the same one?

Hello... So I have installed my Link Meter II and it works great. I did leave one wire not connected, the Illumination wire. Right now, the gauges are VERY bright in the dark and hurt my eyes. You know how the climate control unit dimms slightly when you turn on your headlights?.... well is that what the illumination wire does for the Defis? Does anyone know what wire to tap into to make this function work? My gauges work fine, but I just need them to be a bit dimmer at night. This is all on a r32 Gts-t. Thanks!

I had the same ones on my 92 gtst. they were bosch and I sold them. They were a factory option. all type m aero bumpers have the holes to attach them. and the wiring si part of the harness, so they are stock. i took mine off because it blocks the smic and my intake.

Ive heard that 17X9'' +25 will be fine on the rear, but will they not stick out too far on the front? And I dont think Ill be getting 9" on the front. Will 17X8 +35 be alright with a bit of a spacer? ill gave a bit of camber too... 2 degrees maybee

Hello from Canada. I have a 92 gts-t and will be buying some 5zigen fno1r-c rims. I need help with offsets to have them fit as flush as possible. I also want the sunken look. Anyhow, I will be running an 8'' in the front and 9'' in the rear. The available offsets are +15,+25, and +35 for the rear, and +25 ane +35 for the front. What will be the best with just rolled inner fenders, ideally I dont want to have to do any pulling. I dont plan to tuck the tires too much, but I do want to be fairly low. Oh, and I have tires already and the fronts are 215/45 and the rears aer 235/40 Federal ss595. These are the rims in question. Thanks alot!

I am repainting my r32 red. So far I have come up with 3 different Nissan reds that came on Skylines. BNR32 - AN0- Wine red (don't like) BCNR33 - AN0 (why is it the same code) - Super clear red BCNR33 - AR1 - Super clear red II BNR34 - AR2 - Active red So far, from what I can tell I like the AR2 the best. Does anyone here have an r33 with AN0 or AN1? if so would you be able to post a picture and what code it is. Thanks.