Cold_Fusion

Okay, I'll try and drop a cent or two in between the volley of vulgarity, vendetta and plain nonsense gracing this topic. My GTT is AT for the same reason as another member. Leg issues. And THAT is the only reason I bought the GTT, because within my budget it was pretty much the only decent sports car with the tiptronic option. I've driven the hell out of it for the past 30 000 kms and the box flares between 1st and 2nd on full throttle changes in tiptronic mode. That problem really showed up right after the typical early mods (exhaust, intake, fmic), and it seems to be recurring. Because of their design, auto boxes are naturally stronger than manual ones but nissan really should've gone to a 5 speed with the GTT. 4 ratios just isn't enough and even if you do consider getting one. Account for a valve body upgrade and a standalone transmission cooler so it shifts happily, kills the flaring problem and handles mods you possibly plan on throwing at it. Mechanically, the box should easily handle 400 rwhp with the above mods. Even so, if you can drive a manual then do it. That extra gear is worth every cent coz I really am not happy with 4 gears especially in twisty situations. Don't wanna have to shift to 1st gear because it's too damn twitchy and second just doesnt pull enough at that sort of speed. Don't get me wrong, it's still got balls and I've had lots of fun because I've learnt to make the most out of the box with my driving style but... Manual is the way to go. And the icing on top is the improved fuel economy of the manual. I am also a full-on fan of 2WD...and by 2WD I am referring to RWD or else I'd be on a Honda forum, less weight, more skill required and therefore more involving (= fun). The Manual box allows to have that same, more mechanical feel/interaction between driver and car. Traffic sux yes, but if you love driving, you won't let traffic con you into buying an auto car, unless it's a cruiser sort of car.. Any turbo skyline is best manual full-stop save maybe the R35 and even then...I'd sell the driveline rear of the engine and fit a RWD manual layout. The tiptronic is decent for what it is, but it's got nothing to do with the split second shifting 5-6 speed sequential autos in the likes of the R35 and M3's etc... I still think the R34 can easily look better than a R33 GTR with some simple but well thought out cosmetic touches but the GTR is obviously a fair cut above the GTT in terms of driving satisfaction....unless you break the bank for mods. Anyway, other factors to take into account are potential levels of modification you intend to carry out. If your vision includes some extensive work, owning a GTR or non-GTR skyline will not make much difference. The only thing is early on, the GTR is f**king tough and very easy to get to 400+ HP because of the solidly built factory bits (driveline/diff/axles/engine internals etc...) Last but not least, interior and look of the car. That's purely personal so I'll get personal and say I own 2 skylines, one's a R32 coupe and the other is the GTT. You can draw your own conclusions if I could buy a auto GTR it'd be the R32 anyway simply because it is the lightest of the bunch and has as a result more potential for better chassis dynamics. Sorry for the rant. Hope that helps

What I find annoying is the inconsistency of the flaring. Well first of all it pretty much only happens to me on the 1-2 shift, but then doesn't do it all the time. it's about 50/50 on full throttle shifts but I find it works better with the right timing i.e. the gearbox ECU is ready to shift just as you hit the limiter getting about 2 exhaust pops (running rich I know...). It doesn't really happen on part-throttle shifts and definitely doesn't seem to happen at all when in drive regardless of the driving style. Drive just seems to shift much more precisely and consistently smoothly as opposed to the tiptronic mode. I will test the steering buttons for shift quality tomorrow on various throttle position shifts (normal/half/full) and report back with my POV... There's another thing that confuses me a little. In drive the gearbox locks up quickly (bang on 60 kph in 4th when cruising) whereas in tiptronic mode it tends to slip a lot. I figured that was inorder to have more power available by letting the revs move up (tiptronic mode). So now I am wondering if the flaring is definitely the clutch bands slipping or is it maybe because the gearbox ECU is disabling the lock to be in the ideal power zone for acceleration. Or is the ECU going into oh-shit-I'm-gonna-blow mode and lets everything slip. I must say when it happens it feels exactly like a CVT gearbox except the revs drop slowly instead of staying up in the range. Definitely feels the same as a BADLY slipping clutch in a manual car. But why 1-2 and not in say 1st which is the most abused gear in the box. Ideally, I would like to have a c. 3000 rpm torque converter but with full lock-up on 2-3-4 instead of feeling like a 1000 rpm lock up in 1st then 3000 in 2-3-4. I never really used drive before but in recent months I switched a lot between drive and tiptronic (though tiptronic is still my favored mode 70% of the time) and since I've noticed the flaring (ok it's been a few months) I am observing the gearbox shifting patterns closely. Again, the flaring showed up after mods were carried out on the car (notably exhaust, pod filter, fmic). I have driven spiritedly for 30,000 kms since then and the problem hasn't gotten better (duh) or worse but I did get a full flush done around the time I had the mods done...hmmmmm that seems to be another common factor. Maybe coincidence but interesting nonetheless. Been thinking about the shift kit for aaaages but being in NZ it's a little more logistically troublesome and it means having 1 car off the road for some time which I can't afford to do when my R32 is not running reliably enough. Thank nissan these cars are built tough...they just don't die out of the blues when you expect them to but I always err on the side of caution because I know I don't quite treat my cars up to the standard I'd like to ($ always an issue lol), and then I know for a fact "shit happens". Good luck guys. P.S. Thank you Howie for the info about the microswitch, now I know for sure I can rewire it for paddle shifts when I get that sort of time

Oh, and I forgot to mention swap bars also. e.g. would GTR swaybars fit the GTST hubs straightforward, and if not, would it be worth upgrading to GTST sway bars or even ones form later models or other cars such as sylvias etc... that would bolt on. Which cars actually use the same swaybar dimensions and fitment and which ones would represent a worthwhile upgrade i.e. increased stiffness and handling performance through bigger diameter. blah... Done...for now

That's exactly what I've been praying for during my hours of vain research online. I am in the process of upgrading my R32 slowly with various parts and it would make things a hell of a lot easier if I had access to such a database because using parts from other skylines is a little bit tricky. e.g. My R32 is a gts25 coupe auto. (don't ask me why auto I have very good reasons for that ) The box is screwed, the diff is screwed, the engine needs a little freshen up. It currently has the RE5RO1A box (also present in the nissan glorias mated to the V6). They are apparenly weaker than the 4-speed boxes because it is essentially the same box with internals shrunk to fit an extra gear (like the S-15 6-speed boxes suposedly weaker than the previous 5-speed box). So I am currently eyeing a 1998 R33 RB25DET auto gearbox + driveshaft+shifter+console but I don't know if it'll match the R32 in overall dimensions (speaking of the driveline not the interior bits). I also wonder if the gearbox computers work independently using signals from the engine ECU because I'm sure I would need to swap that also but I don't know how much fiddling I would need to do to match it with the current ECU or if I can even get away with using the current gearbox ECU to control the later R33 gearbox. I know it'd be easier using a R32 turbo auto box but most of them have too many km's on them or have been thrashed or a combination of both (the R33 box I mentioned above came out at 59,000 kms and should therefore be absolutely mint). This leads to driveshaft to different diffs matching (no idea what's interchangeable between different skyline or other nissan models). The only thing I know for sure in this department is that my half shafts are a 5X1 bold pattern so that narrows things down a little. But this is surely the more simple upgrade assuming I just need to find a LSD from a turbo R33 auto with the 5x1 bolt pattern. Then I'd like to sort out the rough running of the engine and maybe swap to a bigger block (e.g. RB30) or even just a more recent one (R33/R34 RB25 N/A block?) but I don't know what matches with regards to the oil and water galleries and also internals. I just went ahead with R34 extractors and front pipe hoping the ports will match (not sure because of the R34's NEO head so once again it's fingers crossed) and I am receiving these goods on Sunday. Finally, I am waiting on a pair of R32 GTR front struts (was told the fronts fit other R32's and I have a 5 stud conversion kit with the big brakes all rebuilt and painted). As I am also getting some rims next week I wanted to have the suspension setup a little nicer hence the GTR struts hoping it'll sit much nicer but I still don't know how to handle the rear struts (was told by the same guy GTR rear struts DO NOT fit other 2WD skylines -only the fronts-). Which brings me to thinking about upgrading using R33 or R34 factory rear strut combinations (e.g. R33 coupe turbo uprights or R34 coupe turbo uprights 2WD of course or a combination of one model's uprights with the other model's springs, or even use my factory struts but fit springs from a later model to drop the ride just slightly to match the front ride height assuming the front GTR struts will indeed bring the ride slightly lower). So many questions with difficulties sourcing the answers. Because there are many aspects covered here, it is hard to decide which section to post it under but since you mentioned the great idea of having a compatibility database in this thread, I put this in here but will also post it elsewhere on a new thread. I think if everyone who has a little experience with such matters chips in, we can slowly build such a database for all of us to refer to and it should have a dedicated sub-forum for quick access. Then the sky's the limit, we can all add information as we go with modifications and keep building the faq that way. Should I fail to find answers with this post and therefore decide to go ahead with one particular set of options mentioned above, I will post my findings afterwards. I want to get this done by the end of the month, leaving the engine work to last. Peace

What the !?! A Holden air filter in a skyline... It's like some purists who thought putting a GTR engine in the tokyo drift Mustang was unethical, except the mustang is cool and the GTR engine rocks...whereas holdens... Ok sorry for the rant. Chances are a lot of these filters are probably manufactured by the same companies anyway so as long as you don't have a dodgy badge on the product (e.g. PRIUS badge on your new pod filter), mix and matching is a wise thing to do, and in this case it is a very handy tip

Well I must say i am after similar info (which I also can't seem to find on the net). My R32 5 speed auto is really on its way out. Prob never looked after from the start and I want to fit in a R33 DET 4 speed (3 + O/D for the purists) with the associated gearbox ECU but I wonder if it is straight forward. Are the signals all going one way? i.e. from engine ECU to gearbox ECU. Essentially I'd like to know if I can get the R32 RB25DE ECU to operate the R33 RB25DET gearbox ECU without hiccups. Thanks for your opinions

100% lever. I only used the buttons to play around but like you said it really is a gimmick. They are simply too narrow. I don't know why they decided to occupy half a steering branch and have the + and - on both sides. I might try and modify it to have upshifts on the right and downshifts on the left. Paddles would be ideal but that'll be much much harder to blend in for a "factory" look. Congrats on the new car and enjoy it. The factory steering wheel may not look awesome but it is functional and feels comfortable. I am not very satisfied about the way I went with mods and I now know I should've worked on the suspension first, then get the shift kit from MV and then whatever else I did. Seriously. That is the best order. Power is ok factory. If you're a new driver, you need time to get accustomed to the car anyway but out of the box it handles a bit poorly. I eventually understeered into a curb and had the car off the road for 3 months. That wouldn't have happened with a good suspension setup. Factory bilsteins are of course excellent but understeer is awful so either have them dropped just a slight bit with some lowering springs to get the car sitting nice and flat instead of "arse-up" factory stance, or just go aftermarket. But otherwise, excellent car. Just do the regular servicing and it'll have you grinning for months. I gave mine more kick than I think I should and yet it hasn't faulted me once. That's 30 000kms of hard driving starting at 75 000 kms but it was very much pampered until I got my hands on it so that always helps. Enjoy

That's an oddball do. I've seen a cefiro front on a R32 or vice versa can't quite recall. I thought that was a bit weird but the R32 front on a 180 is even more so...anyway, wish I could've seen this earlier to try and convince you to get a R32 lol. In terms of looks, for the budget, it tops the rest. Then, being lighter, every KW you gain makes a bigger impact on overall performance. Ditto for handling. Sure the 20DET is a bit bland compared to the 25DET in a R33, but it's still a very healthy motor. Also, the RB's sound wayyyyyy better than the SR's...and on that note alone I wouldn't look back. The sound of a motor is so important when it comes to character. blah blah blah...my ranting's over. As long as you have a smile plastered on your face every time you walk to your car, it's cool P.S. I have to laugh when I see people talking about the "handling" of skylines 'coz half the time the only handling tests skylines ever get is how fast they convert rubber to smoke or go round in small circles...or burst off the line

Oh man good to be back to the forum, especially to see this topic come up again. As soon as I can access half-decent internet somewhere, I can watch the video just to be sure to take the plunge and give MV a call. I was about to post the following...well here it is anyway I reckon it's an interesting read for the new-age auto box fans out there ^^. Problem is I am in NZ and I don't know of anybody doing this valve body stuff here so I used to read about it on the forums then I got busy over the past year or so and ended up postponing trying to get in touch with MV. I found it a little annoying not being able to e-mail them as it is the best way to put a specific request when you're on another landmass...but I suppose all happens in good time and my goals are now much more defined than before after a solid 25000 kms of skyline ownership. Now for a long-overdue phone call. Cheers guys! "I have a R34 gtt auto and a R32 gts25 auto..just got the R32 for a dialy driver coz R34 was killing me with fuel bills. Anyway, I actually don't have a choice but to drive auto so manual conversion out of the question. The 32's gearbox is old and feels beaten up so I am considering several options, as follows: 1. Get a 5-speed tiptronic 'box from a M35 stagea (at least i think it is the 5-speed as found on 350z/V35 skyline etc...) which I'd use in the R34 then fit the R34 tiptronic in the R32..obviously this is probably an obsolete choice but it would greatly improve both cars and I might be able to score the stagea box for fairly cheap. Anyway, I am mainly worried about bellhousing matching and driveshaft in this case. Obviously the gearbox ECU in both cases will have to be retrofitted to the engine ECU's and the 32 'box and ECU relocated to a dark corner until a. I can be stuffed trying to do something productive with it or b. I drop it off at the nearest wrecker's 2. Try to source a 5-speed auto from older nissans without tiptronic and fit that to the R32. As it currently has a 4-speed + O/D, I am also wondering about bellhousing/driveshaft matching on either side of the gearbox. I also need to know which RWD nissan models carried those 5-speed boxes so I can hunt for the parts, and if it is a little tricky then can I simply use any of the boxes from RB25 NA's from R32 through to R34 with the factory R32 gearbox ECU and will they all match up with the factory R32 driveline?" I hope this starts something fun. Now imagine a 5-speed tiptronic with the MV kit behind a good 'ol turbo RB!!

The advise to search for threads to remedy to this problem is a good one. Do a quick search on the site coz i was reading extensively on this a few days ago. Forgot which thread exactly but lots of techniques were described to quieten squealing brakes and apparently most of the time it comes down to piston to metal backing plates on the pads rather than rotor to brake lining friction...or so someone was saying so yeah, just look it up. I have endless CC-X pads on standard albeit resurfaced rotors on my GT-t and they squeal but it's not so bad so it seems to come down to how they were fitted because everyone seems to have different results which does not coincide with the combination of rotor/brake pad. Good luck

Oh and one more thing...when you say you eat porsches and ferraris for dinner or brkfst or whatever...I am pretty sure you don't mean a carrera GT or an Enzo. The exotics may cost a lot more, but the fact they can sell those cars for those prices and get away with it says a lot in itself. Try and sell a 600HP GTR for 300k and as it was said on the previous page...well, people will laugh. It happened with the honda nsx, the same would happen with the GTR. People compare cars on price, but if you're gonna be a purist about it, then leave the costs aside and pick a car. Somehow I still doubt it'll be a GTR. Don't get me wrong, I love them to bits R32-34 and probably the 2008 model when it is released but I have to be honest and say it is not my DREAM car. I am not sure how many skyline enthusiasts on this forum can actually say that a brand-new GTR is their dream car. And think of it as a gift with ALL maintenance costs paid for for life. Would be interesting actually ^^. Anyone wanna start a poll? I just had to add something because of the highly biased POV. I am definitely with Smurf on this one. Don't give exotics the boot, because the way they are built and designed will not be equalled by the japs for some time and speed is NOT everything when it comes to driving. Passion and precision are there. Beauty is still missing. And on this bombshell, ladies and gentlemen.... blah blah blah Cheers

Well...the GTR's of past have always been monsters but remember they were never cheap...and now they are an absolute bargain because you can buy them second-hand for a fraction of the original cost then throw a lot of money at them and they will eat euro stuff...but if you think of it as buying a brand-new GTR and aligning it with the top euro sports cars...then adding the cost of mods to get them on par, well that bridges the affordability gap somewhat... If you compare a non-modified "basic" GTR with the euro equivalents (performance alone), then there is simply no comparison. The only GTR's i think that do close the gap are the "special" models like the M-spec nur, the N1 etc which i think are worth over 200k (correct me if that's wrong-haven't seen the figures for a while)..suddenly they are getting close in terms of bang-for-buck then it's a matter of preference. Bottom line is, if i had the money, I wouldn't throw half a mil on a GTR, I'd buy a techart modified porsche or a hamann modified M3...but when you don't have the money, you can spend a lot less by buying a GTR and modding it to attain similar thrills. The GTR has established itself as that imo, a bargain supercar but it will never have the same pedigree as the euro equivalents. Maybe the new one is going to bridge that gap? Previous GTR's have proven that the japanese are more than able to produce an automotive monster, now they need to work on the image...now THAT is the hard part. And honestly, the new GTR will NOT have 600 HP, coz JUN, HKS and the like need to make money, so nissan needs to keep the power down a little so people who buy GTR's then run down the road to the tuners to pump in some more muscle lol Ok, I stop here before I go way off track. Cheers

I don't really mind...if nissan says it's a GTR and it's gonna have a twin turbo V something with 400hp and still the legendary grip...then it will be good enough for me...and i am really really growing fond of those VQ's like the 350 GT and the 350 Z. I already thought of doing a conversion on a R32 coupe..the VQ is light as for the size and because of the V config, weight can be moved back in the engine bay which means better chance of attaining the 50/50 weight balance... I don't like the shape that much as yet...the R34 is such a beast of a thing in the flesh...but i guess it's now moving to a more euro-style design with flowing lines and all....oh well. Wait and see. Can't wait to see one on the road ^^

Hmmmm I was looking at possibilities for upgrades for my 34 gtt also. Am physically limited to use the auto so have been kickin dust all over to find upgrades...and MV Autos has indeed come up in many places. From what i've read so far, they can do a stage1 shift kit for skylines for 300 to 400 bucks and not only does it make the shifts quicker, but this also translates to less wear on the gearbox internals coz the factory setup which allows excessive slip induces more wear on all the rotating parts to gain more smoothness...but you don't buy a 300hp car to cruise the boulevards at 30kph... I stay in New Zealand though so if anyone else on this forum is from NZ and knows where i could source PROPER shift kits there, gimme a holla please. Oh, and when you have the right kit for you, ask about torque converters because this also comes up in all the threads i've read so far including of course the one above (higher stall revs for gruntier take-offs). I think less slip will also mean better fuel consumption which is worth noting coz this thing's pretty damned thirsty when you drive it hard. Good luck and keep us posted if u manage to source the kit and fit it. I wanna learn as much about it before i take the plunge..although now it's more a matter of actually finding where to get one rather than whether or not to.. cheers

Must be using that brake pedal a lot huh XD But seriously, I don't have a choice anymore. Gotta drive Auto coz of leg injuries and I miss manual big time although the best of both worlds would be a proper sequential box...never tried one but definitely contemplating it in the near future. You gotta account for the simplicity of manual car upgrades too and it really is much much more fun than an auto any day. Even in heavy traffic, when you get bored u can just depress the clutch and get rid of some frustration by letting out a healthy amount of exhaust noise ^^