TODA AU

$20 says your main unit is Silver in colour...

Glenn, Look on the block, just forward of the water~oil heat exchanger where the oil filter mounts, above the front diff... Almost directly above the engine mount bracket, high on the block, hard up against it you should see the sensor (the forward one) If it's not present, you'll see a raise circular boss where it should be. (With a central thread for the retaining/attaching bolt. You will probably need a mirror & a torch... Cheers Adrian

There are actually 2 knock sensors on the RB26. Both are located on the inlet side, under the intake manifold. (approx 3/4 way up the block) 1 is in line with Cyl 2, the other is in line with cyl 5. They're round & black in colour with a 10mm bolt throgh the centre. Plug is also black, 2 wire. Projects from the circular sensor @ approx 45deg. Hope that helps.

Not all dummy heads are made of steel, some are alloy... Also, some companies do bore & hone their engines @ specific controlled temperature. Including these control measures all this adds to the acuracy & total cost of the job.

I guess we're different that respect, In my experience, it is not that common that altering the cam timing on the dyno will deliver superior results, compared to a correctly timed cam. It will however deliver gains more commonly, when the cams are not timed in the first place... Further, I like to know exactly where the cams are & where they are timed, so if you do play with them on the dyno resulting in a gain, you're able to record exactly what LCA they performed best at, & then use this information to your advantage in future. But as they say, horses for courses... Both methods have their merits.

As Ant said, the NVCS system combined with high lift, tight lash cams offers superior performance. The main difference between the two 25 engines is within the cylinder head. That is, the valve train & cams... (The cam control is basically the same as other RB25’s) While the early RB25 uses hydraulic lash adjusters. The RB25NEO engine uses solid lifters. Where the early RB25DET uses 240deg @ 7.80mm cams for intake & exhaust. The RB25NEO uses 236deg intake & 232deg exhaust cams @ 8.40mm lift. It’s the greater lift combined with the shorter duration that necessitates the need for solid lifters. Further, the RB25NEO is a better starting point as an engine to modify because of the solid lifter head. This offers a much wider selection of camshafts. From Tomei 260deg @ 9.15mm Pon Cams to those intended as drop in's for GTR's. Max lift for drop in cams for the NEO is 9.15 Thus 9.1mm ~ 9.15mm aftermarket GTR cams can be used without a change of valve spring. An example of this would be a 272deg @ 9.1mm TODA GTR camshaft. NB: NVCS system cannot be used with GTR camshafts in RB25NEO engine. Though once the cams are larger enough, the NVCS becomes irrelevant anyway. (Aftermarket engine management essential) By comparison, the early RB25 can only cop 8.50mm lift before you need to change the valve springs. This limits your drop in cam selection to Tomei Pon Cams or modified std GTR camshafts. The rest of the core of engine is basically the same. 9.0:1 C/R / 86 x 71.7 Bore & stroke / same block / same head / etc Engine electricals are different. Crank angle sensor / coils / ECU etc IMO, the original RB25DET in reality is a bit of an old nail these days; the NEO version brings forward & a little more inline with the dynamics of more modern engines. Through the use of higher lift, tight lash (less duration) cams & the rather simplistic NVCS (variable cam) system, allow the NEO RB25 to pass the more stringent, modern emission tests & still deliver acceptable power & fuel economy. Hope that helps. Cheers Adrian

It's probable if you use std RB26 cams (ground to suit hydraulics). It's unlikley you'll be happy with the results. Appart from losing the VTC, you're only gaining lift, not duration. 240deg @ 7.80mm vs 240deg @ 8.58 - Intake Std RB26 exhaust cam is actually shorter than the 240deg cam of the RB20/25at 236deg. Lift is higher @ 8.28mm vs original 7.80mm NB: Some of this lift is lost when they're ground too. For what it's worth, regarding std cam timing of RB25 vs RB26. A std RB25 intake cam LCA is 120deg (with NVCS at rest) The RB20 std intake cam LCA is 115deg The RB26 std LCA for the intake is 113deg (117deg R34) This is where the cam will be (approximatly) by lining up the dots, using an RB aftermarket cam pulley, on zero. (Asuming no head machining, thicker, thiner head gaskets & or cylinder block machining) Exhaust LCA's are as follows... (Std cams) RB20 - 120deg / RB25 - 117deg / RB26 - 120~125deg (model dependant) Regarding how many degrees on the cam gear (Using std GTR cams) For 115deg intake LCA - Retard intake 2 deg (R32/33) / Advance intake 3 deg (R34) For 110deg intake LCA - Advance intake 3 deg (R32/33) / Advance intake 7 deg (R34) For 115deg exhaust LCA - Retard 5deg exhaust (BNCR33 N1) / Retard 6deg exhaust (BNR34) / Retard 10deg exhaust (R32/33) Regarding camshaft timing, You should always use a TDC guage, a dial indicator & a crankshaft degree wheel to set the LCA rather than simply guess by advancing or retarding the cam x many degrees on the cam pulley. With no NVCS fitted, tighten the intake cam LCA (lobe centre angle) to 115~110deg. Depending on the rest of your combination. 115deg offers better low end & higher vacuum. 110deg more mid range & topend. Set the exhaust to 115deg (if idle vacuum still poor, widen to 117deg) Fow what it's worth, I would use the Tomei Pon Cam. With 256deg @ 8.5mm lift keeping the NVCS It offers better all round performance without the hastle of the reground 26 cams. Plus, you get more cam. If you must eliminate the NVCS (VTC), use a Tomei RB20 intake camshaft. (Pon cam) This would be the zero greif method. Hope this is of some help. Cheers Adrian

Are you still running the std RB25 hydrulic lifters?

Last night one of the ADVAN staff cars was stolen from the Silverwater area. Description: Black R32 GTSt Obvious features: Veilside body kit, 18" silver mesh wheels, Front mount intercooler & Japanese sports exhaust (Trust Power Extreme II)... NB: Yellow speaker panel in rear. Registration: WXD-051 Please be on the lookout for this vehicle. If you have any information, Please contact N.S.W Police or phone ADVAN on (02) 96471326

SoOkY, Yes and no... Honestly, I think you’re worrying a little too much... I did say if the length was substantial... (That would be say more 25-inch long primaries... at a guess) For what it’s worth, I've also seen an OEM SR20DET turbocharger, maxed out using an equal length 4 into 1 turbo headers... Ones that I made actually… Lol A damn good turner I know managed to squeeze 220kw out of it to the rear tires...

Sort of... That's the sound I myself prefer... You may prefer it another way.... Have a play with it and set it where you like it best.

Ok… Back to basics… Turbines spin because of impulse. In layman’s terns that means the inertia of the gas is imparted to the turbine wheel when it is caused to change direction. When this gas loses some of its energy… I.e.: HEAT It no longer has the energy it had previously with a shorter exhaust runner length. This phenomenon is more dramatic the shorter the cam profile.

N.P. It sounds like a good buy... (Assuming it is only 40% worn) If you're able to put up with it in traffic, you're onto a good thing. Btw, There are complete overhaul kits available for these clutches also should any other components require replacing when it comes time to overhaul it. Don't forget to check the condition of your flywheel bolts and use a spot of loctite on each.

The GD Max twin plater is not a bad thing… It is a pretty good all rounder… Its sprung centre identifies it. The GD Pro is a bit harsh (take up) for a daily driver (solid centre) Pedal feel is good for both… (But that’s just my opinion) Assuming you've got a GD Max, it's a steal for $600 if it's new / not worn out. The rec retail is somewhere around $3500 for these things. Will hold upto 300kw to the rear wheels… No problem… Hope that helps. Cheers

The HKS unit is good in as far as it is adjustable. (10mm screw on the back with the lock nut) It cannot leak - by design. The model you have cannot be made to plumb back as can the Super SQV. Set it loose and I'd have say it's one of the better sounding BOV's. (It sounds the same as the Super SQV) (That's all personal preference though.) Idle stability is not affected. Adjust slightly tighter if engine stalls post quick rev. (Not likely) Down sides... It's plastic and quite fragile. May cause backfires on shift / back off due to non-plumb back. (AFM engine) For what it's worth a BOV offers no performance gain what so ever. Fitted by OEM to reduce drive by noise and increase thrust-bearing life in turbochargers.

Check your fuel pressure & flow

Granted that is cheap... If they're in good condition with no cracks or sign of being repaired... Should be no problem. Bear in mind, with the standard turbo fitted, you may actually lose power if the length is substantial. Assuming also standard cams are used.

T0nyGTSt Nippon Denso is a Japanese company… The Denso injectors sold by Blitz, HKS & Sard are all priced competitively… No secret is made as to the origins of these products… www.denso.co.jp With regard to TODA Products… For the record… TODA Racing uses the latest design and manufacturing equipment to produce TODA products. All product design is carried out using the IBM CATIA (CAD/CAM/CAE) which is the same system used by Honda, Boeing, Ferrari, and other high technology manufacturers. All TODA products are manufactured in-house by TODA. Having an in-house manufacturing capability means there are no compromises in design or manufacturing. Product testing is carried using advanced analytical software, engine bench testing (engine dyno), and race testing

Sydneykid I think you're wrong about Japanese manufactures (most)... How about you come clean and spill the bean on your insinuations...

whatsisname... LOL... Good to see a racer floating about... hippy Give that man a "NEW" Steve Good post.. What you said is fair comment... I'll admit though, I doubt I'd go an purchase a home cienema or something like that without any sort of warranty… You mentioned a discount to SAU members… Ok… If that’s what it takes… You guys tell me what you want within reason & I’ll see if I can come to the party… Tell me what it would take…

Maxx, Whatever… Just because you could doesn’t mean you should. Speaking for myself, I don’t deal with middlemen or wholesalers. Regarding the local industry… Should there be a Retail, trade & wholesale price structure? Should warranties be honoured? A wholesaler is expected to hold stock, as the customer is impatient… A mechanic is unlikely to recommend your product if he cannot make a dollar from it. But is it that bad that someone earns a living from what you guys see as a hobby? At least the mechanic is insured in case he is negligent. That is, if he stuffs up, and can be proved to be negligent. Insurance will cover him… No problem. And he has overheads… You run a business, however small… It generates paperwork… Paperwork generates bills… The accountant, the taxman, Premises generate bills… The insurance, electricity, phone etc etc Heck, I swear you get billed for having bills… Ha ha ha No one’s drawn a wage yet…. Then that brings into it Super… Work cover and the list goes on… The prices charged in this country are fair. If there is a problem with the product, the mechanic is expected to sort this out also… Certainly there are those among you on the forum with a high level of mechanical ability and understanding. There are also those among you who talk the talk… But when it comes to turning spanners, they can’t walk the walk… This then opens the door dangerously modified vehicles… 90% of those who want to modify their cars do so because it is cool. In that I mean to say, a modified vehicle is like a fashion accessory for men. Just as women become fashion victims, so to do men. If the difference between affording a performance product and not… is a few hundred dollars… What condition is the rest of the vehicle in? Nightcrawler Re prices etc as I said, email me... Btw it’s working again…

Nightcrawler... You're right... It was a nasty thing to say.... But true enough… Why is it people don't want to support the local performance industry… You say over $500 a stick? Full whack retail on the SR20 camshafts talked about is $484 each…(shipped to your door) You’re right in saying that you’d be ahead, but not by much… approx $90 for argument sake… That’s if customs did sting you… & Say approx $250 if you got away with it… What do you do if your product is damaged in shipping? What if it slipped through quality assurance? What if you want the English instructions? C’mon… be honest… Why should I be nice to people who make more work for me… Would you? At the end of the day it is me who has to help the people with their parallel imported Toda products… I'll be honest, I hate doing it, but it’s in my best interest to do so… Just as would having the cause removed… When my email is working again… (Damn you to hell ilisys – you bastards!) Hopefully early next week… Email me… I’ll sort you out… No problem… There is a lot of agression on this forum against the industry... What do we have to do to make you guys happier? -------------------- Adrian

I wonder if tax evasion & breach of visa conditions are exportable offences… Hmmm…

Pull my head in… Ok… Fine… (Previous posts deleted) Bye.

Sydneykid… You generalised and were caught out… Ya get that… This is my last post… I’m sorry I ever even came to this forum. As for the trip to Japan that you say you’re going to pay for… No need for PM’s… Email me… We’re off to Toda’s Fightex suspension workshop… (You did say my choice) All expenses paid by you… What you’re suggesting would be cool, but honestly… I don’t believe you. Roy Nice try... Ha ha ha... Never know if you don’t ask. If you would like Toda parts a good prices email me. I can look after you.