OUTATIME

pm'd buddy...

r31 is a internal pump so no good. vl fits straight in there (i have 1) and will b fine for the rb20. vl pump runs the rb30et (same pump N/A and turbo) up to 170ish rwkw i think

with alcohol in there it deff did make a power difference but still pings after 5k. thinking about a adjustable fuel reg. to richen it up when on boost. cos plugs r white after a thrash, black after puttin around. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-SARD-Adjustable...1742.m153.l1262 any1 had any experience with those regulators? worth getting 1? i had a cheap ass monsta one b4 on my 31 but did f*k all and just broke in the end. dunno if it was a rising rate or not. cheers...

cheers 4 the feedback, yea have read about the combustion chamber being unco for boost (half moon) but mate is running l24et n47 head, 10psi no worries. smaller injectors, smaller turbo and fmic and stock ecu. (u should b ok andrew lol) im only runnin stock ecu. no idea how much was taken off the head and theres no packing under the cam towers. timing is spot on tho and chain is tight. unless need a vernier cam gear if its a pooftinkths out? the head its self is good (just been rebuilt) so was hoping to use thats still with maybe a spacer, thicker gasket etc. or after market ecu would be the better option?. but then if comp is too high still wont b able to run much more boost? 1st ill borrow some IPA from work and test out this water injection set up as metho didnt work lol. was alot better but still ping country after 5k...

atm have a l24e+t that likes to ping is ass off over 6psi. compression accross all 6 is between 168-172psi. head was rebuilt few months ago and i think too much was machined off. im wanting to lower the compression so thinking either thicker head gakset or a shim. what would b the better option? whats the std thickness of a l24 head gasket? how much thicker (if possible) should i go? also any thoughts on these shims? seen them b4 just thought was dodge that they r glued to the block (1 i saw done one a gemmie anyway). guess two flat serfaces so should seal alight under boost? but yea any info would help me out heaps cheers...

i got away with ocky straps held to the bonnet when chaning the cam shaft, but sorta have 2 have an idea what ya doin cos like said very easy 2 drop it. piece of wood is the go. other way to stop it turning is to put a socket on the crank pully bolt with a bar on the shifter handle so it jams on the ground.

behind the left strut tower. mine is anyway...

gotta b a night run. or meet 4 day pics but mine still looks bogan

i am dumb, just realised how long ago this guy posted. but yea a guy at my last work place had same last name and was a f**kwit..

whens this cruise happening? mates is runnin, mine is 2. dodge water injection set up 4 now 2 stop the pinging lol

make a marking on the chain and cam gear or find where the gold links line up. then undo the bolt that holds the cam gear on and jam that wooden block thingo ya make up to hold the chain up. done. or just undo the cam gear and just drop the chain down the timing cover then pull that off to make sure everything is ok down there. common for the main water gallery to the water pump 2 corrode out i think. give the oil pump a clean out etc (will have shit in there) and reset the timing chain. if have a service manual all says it in there, pretty straight forward. explains how to align the oil pump/dizzy drive shaft, chain, tensioner etc etc...

no relation to a chad bryant? and yea welcome mate...

cool, yea get some pics up man. also look on ebaymotors cos L20ET ecus always pop up there. get that back on the road...

lol sounds like ya had fun. should only take 1-2hrs to get the head off normally. leave the manifolds on as well, easier 2 get them off once the head is off.

that is only if its not corroded out inside...

what state u in man?

some types u cant. but ive used mine (l24) twice now, all gd...

1mm is a bit to take off a head? i wouldnt really wanna take too much more if just gonna b a run about. just 2 clean it up .020-.030" would b plenty...?

lol yea thats right man, we bolted 1 on2 mates r30. was different 4 sure. but was abit dodge cos he didnt wanna get a custom made up/change the crank pulley (sc used serpentine type belt and l24 uses V belts). so changed the sc's pulley which then no longer had a clutch on it and had 2 stuff around with venting the boost bak into the intake with a bov which made it idle thru the roof. also sucked the fuel down and only ran bout 5psi cos size of the pulley. turbo was much easier. but if done properly would be pretty cool...

cheers 4 the info guys. yea just put the stock 1 back in for now. will b up 4 sale soon if anyones interested? yea thats right Andrew, did rev out more. but deff lost down low torque which i didnt like...

sorry 2 bust in here but sort of on the same topic. put a 260z C "nismo"? cam into my l24et, but the cam doesnt have any oil squirters. now the cam lobes r dry, this gonna cause a problem? thought all L6 cams had the oil squirters. if not how did they get oil up 2 them? also idle vac is now at 10 In/hg use to b 15. runs fine etc but yea that normal? cheers...

r31 have same set up as s13s etc, r30s have the strut bolts reversed so camber tops have 2 b mounted in reverse...

very interested. real rough guess on postage costs? but yea very keen...

sounds dodge but i machined my s13 ones out so now gives few deg of - camber. works well

yea thought was gonna b later cos qualifying was on at 5am. still gettin up at 5.30 isnt fun...