Stupid Toyota

heh, thanks mate but yours is quicker remember. This one is just a "keep me sane" car while I re-engineer mine to make sure the QR Sprint record is reset again

Yeah, its not bad. I didn't build it though. Too lazy to do 2 cars. Its fairly thoroughly done though but I'll make my own changes as we all do

Well I have a new toy for 2008. It's shared with the girl so I don't get to claim total ownership of it even though I paid for it, will do all the work on it and so on... typical lol

Ouch, well hopefully I won't need to test mine in the field like that, but it's always good to know it's there. I don't know if I'd really like to go chromoly due to the possibility of failure if it's not right. I know it can be a good way to save weight, and if you don't crash it'll never be an issue but hey, I only have one life to throw away...

I dont think I have any pictures of my cage here, but was done by Nambour Radiators north of Brisbane. CAMS compliant with papers and cost $1800 Wasn't painted or anything, just welded in but for the price, who'd argue? Turn-around was a little slower then quoted but over-all Im happy. (Mind you, I haven't "used" it yet lol) It's a full cage, tagged to A pillar. Simple single rail side intrusion, roof bar and harness bar etc.

emails sent

Not all Japanese rollcages go around the dash. There are plenty available which penetrate the dash as required. Cusco make them, and they are available in steel (Safety21 branded) or chromoly (Cusco branded). Of course that doesnt guarantee compliance. They use 40mm tubes with 2.0mm wall thickness in Safety21 cages, and 40mm tube with I think 1.6mm wall thickness for the chromoly. Here's a link to a pdf from the Cusco Japan website. I can't read Japanese but it seems to have load ratings and references to FIA etc. Maybe helpful, maybe not... http://www.cusco.co.jp/products/pdf/roll_b.pdf

Basically what Im after is a set of images front, rear side of my car with a Super GT style body kit so I can hand it to my fibreglass guy with instructions to "Build This"

Hi guys, what Im after is someone very good with artist's rendering/impressions or Photoshop editing of a car in order to get a certain look Im after. Anyone like that here or know of anyone? Thanks

Well, mine were very cheap indeed, $90pr... I figure if they are straight, cool. If not, then they will make exotic hose reels in the workshop lol In the mean-time I just bought myself a car for SuperLap/Time Attack/Temporary circuit duties. Just have to wait for it to get here now. It'll be here well before the first Superlap day though so hopefully I'll be able to attend, though it won't be terribly fast, being a Nissan and all

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHA..... OH GOD MY SIDES, HAHAHAHHAHA, ITS HURTS, IT HURTS!!... HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.... oh man, Im in PAIN!!... Matt is one incredibly funny guy

Thanks mate. Mine are forged magnesium too Ex-Super GT wheels.

Hey BB can you do me a favour and weigh your rim for me please. Fairly accurately if possible. I have some 18x13 coming and I was wondering what they weighed. 19x12 should be close enough for my mind to mull over. Giant- I bought new brakes for my toy. Toyota Motorsport kit (TOM'S) 6 piston front, 4 piston rear The tyre guys have been slack, but Im going over there next week so I'll knock on their door and wake em up. For the R34 what size wheels are you wanting to use, and offset? I guess if AME are offering sponsorship it'll be silly not to accept but aren't they tiawanese or something?

Actually I think you'll find Wilwood are more dirt track oriented. Quality is moderate and naturally they sell bucketloads of calipers in the USA to the speedway guys so they can keep a cheap price. There will be no benefit at all from changing horses mid-stream with the R33 calipers you've already just about got fitted up. You can buy decent pads for those calipers plus matched rears and the original R33 mastercylinder should get you close to the mark bias wise. My vote is stay with the 33 stuff. The only addition you may wish to consider is the 2 piece rotor but for a car thats already light, it may not be an absolute neccessity for the cost involved in doing it. The DBA 2 piece rotors would only be a small upgrade anyway. They are lighter, but not as much as a good quality alcon rotor or similar. Of course cost can be out of the park with alcons. As an example, a stock R34 GTt 310mm x 30mm rotor weighed in the order of 9.3kg for one only. A used Alcon rotor in 2 piece 332mm diameter and 31mm thick (originally 32mm) weighed 7.1kg each. According to the experts, a kilo of rotational mass saved, is equivalent to 10kg static So by saving 2.2kg per front rotor it'd be similar to removing 44kg of mass from the vehicle body weight. As a side note, I know of a guy up here in Qld who fitted wilwood calipers to his turbo mx5 and had trouble bleeding them up. Turned out they were leaking fluid from around the piston seals, and they were new calipers...

Bathurst doesn't count mate. Try driving around it in a "spirited" manner and see what happens... Red and Blue will cart you off quick smart

That was a whole lot of effort to go to Swanny lol, very artistic.

Well, its what Ive just done Wanted a cheap hack to do time attack and occupy my desires whilst I tweak the main car

Hey, there's a function on all forums called "personal message" and I suggest you use it for this crap. On topic, i think slicks really arent a requirement. It keeps in tune with what the other time attacks internationally are doing and allows people to actually drive out there on them instead of changing wheels at the track etc. Semi slicks also last longer in general then a full slick and can be purchased for less.

So what you're after is a Porsche GT3 for under $3000? Well hey, they're everywhere. Ive seen some at Hobby World with hand controller for around $500 for a Tamiya. Some of the gas powered ones are pretty quick too and with a little practice in the local Coles carpark you too will be an Ayrton Senna. Seriously, as what djr81 said... There exists no car in the world that is competetive, costs stuff all and is available in 1/1 scale. If all you want to do is muck around for fun, go buy an S13 and roll up to your local track on a public day, pay your money and be happy with what you achieve. If you want to get serious, open up the wallet, get out the credit card and prepare to make a serious hole in it. The CHEAPEST way to be competitive is to buy someone elses race car they've already spent the time and money developing. It'll be cheaper then building your own by far. However it'll still cost $20,000 plus to get something thats actually fastish

Didn't you know hrd-hr30? Anonimity enhances masculinity by 27.3% Plus, if you combine that with an addiction to viagra, scientific tests have proven you'll see sporadic outbursts on forums and threats of rock throwing. Now, let's get back on topic huh This isn't the school playground it's a motorsport forum

Since when is "Restricted Rally Registration" proper registration? Its limited use rego for RACE CARS. It's perfectly legal to do engine conversions. Obviously, if the engine isn't of a capacity that meets legality then it won't pass a registration requirement which makes it a race class car. No aircon is pefectly legal too, but you must have a means of demisting the front screen so an operational heater must be in place. It practically writes the rules itself. Any car's entering should have a basic safety check done prior to entering the track, and the scrutineers decision is final and binding. Don't like your classification then go home. Why oh why do you need to make it so difficult? You don't need carpet to be legal and you don't need the original engine either. What if you owned an AE86? Would you like to be stuck trying to compete with a poxy 1600cc carburettor fed engine, or be forced to sell your pride and joy just so you can have some fun? You need to read an entire post and grasp the whole concept being put forward Roy. Being registered means nothing without the qualifier of it being able to pass a basic legality check. Anyone with a bit of nouse would be able to give a car a quick look over and know if it'd come close to being defected or not. Obviously you can be pedantic but if you use the same yardstick as the law and have a certain discretion then it's not hard to govern. Would you like to be the one stuck checking weights, thickness of guards, noise levels, etc etc etc on every car that turns up? It'd take a maximum 5minutes to look a car over for a "basic legality check" and then people can get on with the day. If you love beauracracy so much, why not apply for inclusion to the CAMS council? Anyway, Ive had my input. At the end of the day Russell will set the laws, and hopefully people will see the light and abide by them without giving the poor bloke a tumour

In my opinion, NO. There is no way on gods green earth that rollcage is legal for proper registration. For one, its a weld in cage and secondly side intrusion bars must not be above the height of the sides of the seats. If it wasn't for the cage, I probably wouldn't have too much of an issue with it. You can google all sorts of cars and ask all sorts of silly things about different cars. There should be one rule of thumb, and that is would it stand a chance of genuine registration within reason. If you have $12,000 suspension in your car, that wouldn't technically prevent the car being able to get a roadworthy certificate. Though realistically, coilovers using spherical bearings are illegal as these generally do not carry ADR compliance for road use. When you get pulled over, if the first thing you think of is "my car's going to be defected and/or confiscated" then you're probably in Race Class

The whole point of a street class is that its a street car, therefore registration is mandatory or its considered a race car. It must therefore be able to be close enough to road legal to essentially pass a cursory police check (within reason) Therefore having it sitting 50mm off the ground with no mufflers, lexan windows, drivers seat only and doors cut out to just a skin and no windows is not acceptable. The car would have to stand a chance of not being defected. Its perfectly legal to have a car mod plated as a 2 seater, therefore 2 seats fitted would be the minimum and they'd also have to be seats that would stand a chance of not causing a defect, as mentioned prior. That is the only realistic means of governing it. If it doesnt meet these requirements, which are quite basic then it's race class. Then among street class, and race class have a division of 2WD and AWD. 4 classes, easily governed requirements and less headaches for the people trying to run the days. Remember that while you guys may want to make 1000 rules to ensure you can stop people trying to be faster then you, it all has to be governed on the day and if it gets too hard and political Russ and the other organisers may well just say its too mind-numbing and go back to living their own lives. Having said all that, I don't care too much what happens in street class because I'm only interested in outright times Whilst the silvia is registered I'll only enter race classification.

Russ, you're PM inbox is full mate Want to PM me a different means of contact pls?

Yes it'll be semi slick shod mate. Priced them local, what a rip. I'll be bringing mine in from Japan instead. No space-frames, no firewall mods. Just regular engineering and goodies. Brakes off my race car, that sort of thing. Out of curiosity Russ, do you know why the M-Speed GTR only runs 265 wide tyres? Surely it'd get better grip with 285 or wider tyres? Most time attack cars Ive seen have only 265s such as the HKS Evo