Gareth

anyone know how the laptimes of the porches compared with the v8's? the v8's were around the 1:56 kinda mark not sure about the porches though

I don't know if the op is still reading this but the first skyline i had was a R33 gts25 (type-s) (2 door) and it was great. could hold it's own against R32 gts-t's handled like it was on rails and would take a thrashing all day long with no drama's. when i got my 25t i was fairly disappointed as it didn't really go much harder than the non-turbo after putting a manual boost controller on and bumping up the boost to 10psi it still wasn't feeling much better. I ended up getting it dyno'd thinking something was drastically wrong with it and it was making 190kw. I don't know what was going on with the n/a that i had, as far as i knew (and my friend who owned it for 5 years before me) it was stock apart from a pod filter and a cat-back. i just wish i had put it up on a dyno while i still had it. In the 5 years my friend owned it and the 2 years i did it never gave any drama whatsoever, when i last checked to see if it was still alive and kicking (on that website in nz that you type the rego into) it was upto 245000km! (i sold it at around 150) my 25t has given me all sorts of minor dramas in the three years i have had it and now with 250kw it is definitely faster than the old n/a but doesn't feel as good to drive, and i'm constantly worried about it breaking down on me. The only other n/a skyline experience i had was another friend who brought a R33 4 dr gts (2 litre single cam) and that was absolutely rubbish, like a totally different car. one thing that always confused me was how my n/a gave me the same fuel economy as my turbo when the power of the turbo should be far exceeding 100kw more! anyway thats my experience Go the N/A!!!!!!!!!!!!!

this sounds like the same problem i have on my daily (peugeot 306) it's gets worse the warmer they day (in winter it's almost nothing to worry about) summer every drive you go on it's cutting out and being a bitch, car even spent 2 weeks with a mechanic cpl years back and he couldn't fix it so i just gave up and put up with it. might see if i can open up afm and see if anything is loose, would be sweet to sort it out before summer rolls around.

ok i think i know where i was going wrong i was overestimating drivtrain loss then comparing to my boss's ISF, which with my miscalculation i was thinking should have similar acceleration. looks like i still wont be overtaking him down the straight next track day.......ahh nuts. well i just wanted to get some opinions anyway from people who would know.......so thanks......

Thanks for the replies, i didn't realise the video was going to pop up on the page (when you goto YouTube itself i have listed mods in the comments) turbo is GCG high flow with the usual supporting mods. Was dyno'd by a reputable workshop so i wouldn't expect them to mislead me but i don't really know

Hello all can you check out this video : http://youtu.be/AefKQ4Gk53k and tell me does it seem rather slow considering it ran 246 kw on the dyno. I'm wondering if they made the figures look more atractive than what they really were. i was thinking 80-160 should be around the 7 second mark instead i'm seeing about 8 and 100-200 around the 12 second mark instead of 14! before i go and maybe try another dyno i thought i would see what you all reckon as i know there are plenty of you on here with similar mods and similar power.

i don't know why the other thread of this has been locked. I just got some 650cc Jecs injectors off this guy, they went in no dramas and work perfectly.

i have just had installed some of this guys 650cc Jecs injectors, mine had no tool marks and work well, as of yet i can't fault them.

managed to get my 3 studs in, rooting the thread of one nut in the process. measuring my 'nice products' wheel studs from autobarn the knurled part of the stud was 0.3mm up on what it should have been (by their specifications on the pack) i think if they had been the correct size they would have been perfect but anyway i managed to get them in (just) by giving the hole abit of a sand with a needle file and some emery and using plenty of wd40 while screwing it on. What i expected to be an extremely easy job wasn't as easy as it should have been!

How tight should the new stud be going in???? Mine was so tight i ended up stripping thread (while using the nut to pull it through) luckily i purchased an extra, so i went onto a different hole (i have 3 to replace) but that was the same so i stopped before i ruined that one too!

an update on mine: pulled it out, looked ok, nothing loose or damaged so put it back in and it worked fine....for about a week.....couldn't be bothered pulling it out again so put up with it (wasn't really a huge deal) anyway finally got to me again, so pulled it out and re-soldered most of the connections at the back (all the larger ones with the resistor/capacitor legs sticking out) didn't expect speedo to work at all, but guess what.....fixed!! i can now go over bumps, reset my trip odometer, and break traction without it cutting out on me. so in the end it was a simple fix, no dollars required, and didn't have to replace it with a higher Km odometer (mine only has 86k on it).....stoked.

Trying out the Intima SR's front and rear. have to say they seem pretty damn good. certainly grip well, zero noise, bugger all dust. far better than bendix which i have used in the past. good price too at around $120 a set.

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

man, i can't believe how hard it seems to be to sell skylines. i would have been all over this a year ago (when i brought my R33). i have accepted that i will own it until it or I die. Good luck.

Most awesome write up! finished this off a short time ago, idle was much smoother (as well as being set to a better level as it was a tad low) still seems do drop quite low under braking when clutch is pushed in, certainly not struggling like it used to although maybe thats just the higher idle helping. thanks for the effort in writing the tutorial.

This is a really great service, i'm abit suspicious about my cars history so hoping this may help ECS33-135202 GGKBRTFR33VDAAAYCM Thanks so much!

i'm having the exact same problem with my series2. was going to have a look at the cluster this weekend to see if anything was loose. Is yours fixed now?

hey mate, wondering what your outcome was, i'm having the same issue at the moment with pressure dipping to 1 on idle sometimes.

hey mate, wondering what the outcome was? i'm having same problem.

no chance of it being offered with a road worthy?

Just thought i would add my 2 cents on this.... my R33 GTS25 has red/white badges and no it's not because some tryhard put them on there, it's the way it came outa the factory, that guy further up the page who said about the type s= red/white and non type s=blue and white is onto it. i was trying to find out what the type s thing ment but then read earlier pages and the answer was there which seems to be true to my car so....