MrMayhem

pretty straight forward time consuming adventure na cams ... why I have a set here shorter duration than the turbo set i wouldnt mess with them theres tw lil bolts from the head to the block both back corners make sure you dont miss those lil guys. make sure you put the timing belt back on correctly..

havent seen one crack the head but if you been over heating it.... headgasket

hr31 front spoiler $150

c-red have a r32 gtr rear cut complete

25 turbo should have .... 45V 16v is the lil guy rb20 vg20 etc

as Doc said back of the plenum theres a gold cad plated cylinder about 30mm diameter and 60mm tall its screwed to teh base block and has the forementioned brown plug they ge carbonated up take it off brush it down make sure teh piston inside it is free

most likely the wisest advice

lol

drive train loss? attessa is good in that way theres no extra loss untill its employed and its only employed when your spinning..... weight is the 4wd killer if you want a r33 4wd on a budget buy joes na gts-4 super cheap then choose teh engine you want in manual for stag 25 or the 26 ......or not

when your ac is applied the ac "idle up valve" lifts your idle to compensate for the extra loading. be checking that

The big Silouette pulls a 13.4 almost there dude not bad for a 2L:uh-huh:

r33s run 14.2 stock ? Ive never seen a figure for the 33 I assumed it would be more like 14.8 or above let me know where to find factory specs on teh 33 and the 32 if you have them

CA is a revvier engine than a sr from my experience ca's bust head gaskets through age or over heating often caused by loosing coolant through a crack frail water line on the right rear side of the head/block. bucket and shim RB style and the short stoke allow it to rev and live the sr is a torquier better responsive engine but has weakness at high rpm due to its rocker arm stud removing themselves. also they aquire bottom end knocks, not too sure why probably from using bad oil or slideways starvation Ideal combo CA18 rev head and a 2L bottom end...... did somebody mention dexter.....

havent seen too many jap ones in mild early ones are cast iron and pretty much live forever new flashy tuned length are mainly stainless. heavy steampipe mild might be the go might need to brace the weight to something screamer pipe, anti social banshee wail, love it

is the abs sensor on the nose of teh diff .... i dont think it is

dude there already 4.3:1

SR Vs CA big debate both have strengths and weaknesses http://members.iinet.net.au/~sayers/biscuits/casr.htm read that decide for yourself

does it happen when the tank is full?

I run stainless extractors and 1 and 6 cracked from the head fange and had to be re-tigged... If your going to throw a fortune at it .... do whats "theoretically" right and blow the $200 on the tuned length if you think everyone else who make performance manifold are wrong ... then dont but whatever you do set the external gate up in an appropriate place, clearances become and issue

pretty much your dropping to 10psi odd in 2nd @ 6k then 3rd gear around 4500k it start to creep down? they arent designed to flow more air to sustain much more than 8psi on a 2L

Dear Adam I have a pair of 5 spoke who knows whats 16" i think they are 8" maybe 9" will fit your skywine $60 a pair

Dear Adam I have a pair of 5 spoke who knows whats 16" i think they are 8" maybe 9" will fot your skywine $60 a pair

I used the term cross grade instead of upgrade cos upgrade makes the uneundo that the rb20det is inferior ..... which it isnt

bb have a pre load bolt on the shaft cartridge

complete bar.... loom ecu and gearbox