Scando

A higher diff ratio might be worth a try. When we had the diff ratio in my car spot on it was just about on the limiter in 4th on the start/finish straight. Back to 3rd for the esses until about 1/3 of the way up the hill then into 4th right over the top of the hill until the hump in the main straight where I'd pick 5th. Back to 3rd at the end of the straight and then short shift into 4th for the sweeper onto the start/finish straight. My engine was more torque than revs though so it may not work for you but it's worth a try. Only bugger is it means changing diffs between Baskerville and Symmons but that's not a huge job and it's a good chance to check your tail shaft and drive shafts between rounds. Symmons is a different kettle of fish, there's no real way you can get around doing lots of gear changes there.

Thanks very much for that, I understand why it's done now. I'll definitely go with the RB26 bearings at get that done, cheers.

Thanks, I reckon I'll do both. There are two guys I race against running 25/30's and both had issues with excess oil going into the catch-can initially so it's something I'd really like to get right straight up if I can. I was keen on CP pistons because I had them in my L28 and found them to be a great product and the price is fantastic at the moment. I'll definitely keep the Arias option in mind though, I saw your dyno graph and the way your engine delivers the power is exactly what I'm after. I'll see what the head cc's up at and go from there.

Bugger, I'm about to leave home. Hopefully catch up with you at the track.

Thanks for the input guys A friend I race against that runs a very strong 25/30 told me that the plugs have been known to pop out of 30 cranks. Very unlikely to happen at the revs I'll be pulling but he suggested it as a little safety measure that costs bugger all. Part no. RS6610-3406-0 listed here: http://www.spoolimports.com/products/cp-pistons I believe they have a 6cc dome & 0 piston to deck height. I will measure it all up and work out how much needs to come off the head once the head has been cc'd and I have the full specs on the pistons. It should be less than 20thou. Even less again if the head has been skimmed at all before. I'll check with my machinist but I'm sure he'll know what to do. He does most of the turbo race engines in Southern Tas. He did the machine work for my L28ET which ran CP pistons. Pistons and bores looked new when we changed the head gasket after a couple of years of racing. I'd prefer to use the 26 studs. I know the dowels will still locate the head but it will cost me next to nothing to get the block drilled and tapped so I'd prefer have the studs fit the head properly. I'd be interested to hear more about the annual grove in the main tunnel. I saw a post from Sydneykid talking about it but didn't quite get it. Is it so you can get the oil feed to RB26 bearings which have more feed holes? I haven't pulled a 26 apart before. When the 26 arrives I'll have a look at the bearings and tunnel compared to the 30. Hopefully I should have a better idea then. Thanks again, keep the advice coming, the more info the better

Hi all, I've finally finished reading through this thread! My plan is to build an RB26/30 to go into my 240Z I use for circuit racing. What I want from the build is a very reliable 350rwkw with a smooth power delivery and the ability to make a bit more in the future if I can afford a drivetrain to stand up to it. For reliability I want to limit revs at 7,000rpm. For drivablity I want to run between 9:1 - 9.5:1 compression ratio and keep boost down to about 15psi. I plan to run it on E85. I've tried to make a fairly exhaustive list of what I need. I already have a couple of complete RB30's. I have a complete smokey RB26 on the way that'll I use the head and inlet setup off and any other bits I can and then sell off the leftover parts. There's a few parts I'll be able to use that I've kept from my old L28 turbo setup. I've listed next to the parts on the list where I already have them. Anyway, here's the list. I'd like to hear if there's anything I've missed or anything I should do differently to achieve what I'm after. - Series 2 RB30 block crack tested, acid dipped, drilled & tapped for RB26 head studs, bored to 86.5mm - RB30 crank crack tested, linished, grub screwed & balanced - Crank collar - King or ACL Bearings - Standard RB26 harmonic balancer (or an ATI one if I see one cheap) - Standard RB26 oil pump – new (or something better if I see something cheap) - Spool Rods - CP 9:1 RB30DET pistons - Standard RB26 water pump - Dayco 94407 timing belt with the one high, one low, tensioner setup. - RB26 head crack tested, hardness tested, acid dipped, surfaced (take enough off to get compression ratio up to around 9.3:1) - Standard cams, cam gears, valves, springs, etc with the seats re-done and spring pressure checked. - Standard RB26 throttle bodies and inlet plenum - RB26 ARP Head stud kit - Block the rear oil gallery to the head and use a 1.5mm restrictor in the front gallery - Extra oil drain in the back of the head plumbed directly to the sump - Full Genuine Nissan RB26 gasket kit - R34 splitfire coils so I don’t need separate igniters - NGK BCPR7EIX-11 plugs - Holley Blue lift pump - Cumulator tank - Rising rate regulator - Twin 044 pumps or a single 1000hp aeromotive pump - 1000cc ID injectors - Ebay twin feed fuel rail if I go twin 044’s (if not will the standard rail do?) - GT3540R with .82 exhaust housing (already have) - Whatever T3 flanged externally gated manifold I can find that will work in my engine bay. - Tial 44mm wastegate or bigger? Depends on the manifold design I end up with - 4 inch dump into 3 inch straight through pipe. (already have) - Haltech Sport 2000 ECU (already have) - Large good quality intercooler (already have) - Oil cooler (already have) - Turbosmart Vee Port BOV - Pod Filter (already have) - Twin plate clutch (most likely a 2nd hand OS Giken or Nismo, whatever comes up cheap) - RB25 gearbox (most likely R34) - Modified R33 tailshaft - Patrol sump to fit the 240Z. Increased capacity, baffled, etc - Modified Patrol oil pickup - Intercooler piping, turbo feeds & returns, etc Cheers, Shane

I think I'll head up for a look. It'll be good to see Woolls with the big staights for all those ponies to gallop

For the class I race in the only rules on engine are it must have the same configuration and the block must be made of the same material as the original engine. So cast iron block in-line 6. Anyway, I'll finish reading the thread and then post up what I have in mind. Just thought the weights might be useful to others.

I'm up to page 330 of this thread so only 25 to go, woohoo! I'm looking at doing this conversion but in a 240Z circuit car so weight is critical, mainly to make sure I don't upset the balance of the car. Anyway, I weighed a couple of things today and thought I'd post it up incase it's useful to anyone else. RB30 bottom end, still had the oil in it, oil filter attached, auto torque converter plate attached ~ 120kg RB25 neo bottom end, still had the oil in it, oil filter, oil cooler, altenator, harmonic balancer, a few extra hoses, no flywheel ~ 125kg There's a few variables there but if you took the torque converter plate off the RB30 and all the extra bits off the RB25 I reckon they would be very similar in weight despite the higher block and longer stroke crank of the RB30. Also, an RB30 complete except for altenator, flywheel & exhaust manifold was ~ 175kg.

Hey Jason, I agree that the tracks needed to be evened out and I know there was a very good reason for lowering it with 5 or more cars pushing on or below the baskerville base time that year. I know it wasn't very enjoyable as a driver having to be careful incase I put in a really good lap and went below the time. I also know it created some brilliant racing that year with all of the cars so close. I personally would have liked to have seen the Symmons time raised 1 second to even the tracks out and if people wanted to go faster they could move to A. At the end of the day it's always going to be very hard to manage a class like Targa class with very few rules and base times. Those things that make it hard are also the things that make it work. People like yourself have done a brilliant job to make it the class that consistantly draws the numbers. I've never put my hand up to get involved in the running of the class so I shouldn't say anything. This is something I'm very interested in doing now though. I'll send you a PM.

Unfortunately since the base time was lowered for Targa B the numbers have really fell away. I think 1:01 at Baskerville was a time that a lot of people saw as a reachable target on a very limited budget. R32 GTS-T's were a perfect platform to do that with too. Although 1 second doesn't sound like much I think some people run into reliability trouble trying to find it and it made Targa B a lot more expensive to run for them.

Forgot to reply to this sorry, give Dennis Burgess at the CAMS office a call and he'll tell you everything you need to know. For the license you have to apply and then sit an online test. For the logbook you need to get the car inspected by one of the approved scruitineers. It's a bit more involved than that so it's best to give Dennis a call and he'll tell you exactly what you need to do.

If you already have a log booked car and the necessary safety gear then it's not actually that expensive to run the TSS. You normally do about 40 laps for the day which is about what most people do if they go to the track for a day anyway. So fuel, tyres and brake pads work out the same. The entry fee is a bit over $100 more than the track fee for a practice day and the annual license fee for a clubman circuit license is about $260 from memory. Until I tried to make my car quicker to run targa A I was doing it for less than $1K a round.

I just checked and it's definitely a new Targa class lap record. Andrew Lawson's previous record was 57.2

Check this out, good day for quick times! http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?15/05/2011.BASK.R6 Pretty sure that's a new lap record to Sherriff. And I'm pretty sure that makes him and Burns the first Targa class cars into the 56's! Nunn is into the 57's as you guys predicted, he actually qualified at a 57.1! Also well done to Woolls and Briggs, pretty sure that's the first time either of them have gone under a minute. It'll be interesting to keep an eye on the times for the rest of the day.

Yep, PCC license plus: - Approved helmet, balaclava, gloves, suit, boots & socks. - Dorian timing transponder (you can often hire these off motorsports tas for a start but will need your own eventually) Most of the effort goes into getting the car log booked. CAMS approved cage, killswitch, tie wire on all drain bungs, catch can, and all the normal club day requirements. That's all I can think of.

Woolls! Good to see you getting back out there mate Still don't think I'll be back out there anytime soon unfortunately. Damn that's quick for what his car is if he does make it into the 57's. He'll be right on the money with the big $$$'s boys if he can do that.

Thanks guys, I thought his car might be worth around $16K so I'm very glad I got your input. I was way off the mark! I told him what cash I'd require on top of his car based on what you guys have said and I think I offended him so the 240Z can keep collecting dust for now

Thanks for the input guys. I didn't realise the market for GTR's had dropped out so badly! I have no intention of keeping his car, if I get it, it will be up for sale straight away. Sounds like it might be best if I just try to get him to sell his car and pay cash for mine then. It is on SI rego and I had it engineered with the L28 turbo engine and roll cage. I've upgraded the brakes and put bigger wheels on since it was engineered though. I'm chasing a bit over $30K for it. If he won't pay that then I'm happy to let it sit in the shed and keep collecting dust unitl I can afford to use it again. It's done 59.2 around Baskerville, 1:00.1 around Symmons and 1:48.9 around Phillip Island. 2nd in Targa B for the 2007 state series, 1st for Targa B in 2008 & 2nd for Targa A in 2009.

Hi all, I'm considering selling my 240Z circuit car and the potential buyer wants to give his R32 GTR as a part trade. Here is the link to where he has it for sale at the moment. http://www.boostcrui...howtopic=662563 I'm just wondering what you guys think I could sell it for here in Tassie? Keeping in mind I would want to move it on fairly quickly. How is the market for GTR's down here at the moment? Are they selling quickly or sitting around? Anyway, any input would be appreciated Cheers, Shane

Yep, keep an eye on my105 if you're after a tarmac rally car. You'll pick up something there that's already built and sorted heaps cheaper than you can build a car for yourself.

Very wise to start off on the circuit before you do a hillclimb. Go to Tas Fire Service on Melville St and say what it's for and they'll get you the right one. I think it's a 900gram one from memory.

Ah, I saw the tape on the window, that would be why. Pricks!

I saw this heading towards Huonville on my way home last night. Looks very neat! Bet it's a prick to keep clean though!