Scando

No problems, good luck with it. I'd be interested to hear what you find works if you get a chance to test it.

I can see where you're coming from, but as the cars body rolls over, the centre of gravity of the car is moved further over the outside wheels. The sway bars stop this happening. All I can say is if you get a chance then give it a try, I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised

The times Pete's getting out of that car at both Baskerville and Symmons are awesome for what it is. I think the bloke behind the wheel has a fair bit to do with it too

If the car has adjustable bars you could try just softening them up. It's all about weight transfer in the wet. In corners you want as much weight as possible on the outside two wheels. It's all to do with transferring the load through a smaller contact area as you mentioned in a previous post. So you're try to get all your grip from the outside two wheels rather than all four. Another thing to note is that my car was nicer in the wet when I ran 15x7's than it is now I'm running 17x9's. On my car I just disconnect the front bar because it has a natural tendancy to understeer. I'd imgaine the RX7 would be pretty well balanced so i'd definitely try both bars. I just take the linkage out of one side so it's easy to change back to a dry setup in a hurry if need be. Here's the link to the first time I drove my car in the wet. Both swaybars connected. and high tyre pressures. I'm in the 240Z and did a best time of 1:19, 2 seconds off the quickest 2WD car and 7 seconds off Leigh Finlayson in his Evo. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....2/2007.BASK.R18 This is the second time I drove my car in the wet. Front swaybar disconnected and didn't change anything else from the dry setup. This time I did a best of 1:15 which was the quickest 2WD car and this time only 1 second of Leigh Finlayson in his Evo. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....9/2008.BASK.R35

I'm from Tassie so we get plenty of practice racing in the rain The mega high tyre pressures work really well on karts in the wet. When I first started racing the car we thought it would work well there too. We were wrong. We've had best results starting about 3-4 psi higher than normal but nothing over the top. We generally aim for about the same hot psi in the wet as we'd aim for in the dry now. I'm in the same boat as you and haven't been able to afford a second set of tyres for the wet but as Duncan said, soft compound DZ03G Dunlops work very well. As the other guys have said, try to get as much heat into them as possible in the warm-up lap. If you drive slightly on the agressive side throughout the race then it helps keep the temps up. Disconnect both sway bars. If the car has a natural tendancy to understeer then try just disconnecting the front bar, if it has a natural tendancy to oversteer then try just the rear bar. If you can, try softening up the suspension. Generally, the more you can get the car to roll around the better. With lines, on tracks with old surfaces there is usually a high rubber build up on the dry racing line. This can be very slippery in the wet. Often there are certain corners where running mid-track through the corner or keeping it tight on the exit can provide a lot more grip by keeping off the rubber. It's all trial and error here to work out what to do on which corners but as with anything, look at what the quick guys in similar cars are doing (ie. the lines of an Evo might be a lot different to an RX-7). When I raced at PI last year we didn't have any wet races but the track surface seemed quite clean so I'd expect it to be quite grippy in the wet, even on the normal race line. Hope my ramblings provide some help.

Don't be concerned about the E85. The people I know that have switched to it have got better results than big $$$'s race fuel. Next time I do any engine mods to the Z I think that's what I'll get it tuned on.

I didn't know Matt has a Supra Sounds like the day was well worth it if you found a second a lap. A second a lap can cost a lot of money if you try to get it other ways!!!

61-62's still aint to shabby for a street car. The old man mentioned you were going to the training day. How was it? Worth while doing?

Thanks for looking mate. I got hold of a VL box in the end. It's in the car now, just need to make up a new mount to suit it.

As the topic states I'm looking for a RB20 gearbox (I've also heard the late R31 boxes are exactly the same thing). Must be in good condition. I'm heading to Phillip Island in 10 days and need to modify the box ot fit it in the car so I need it in a real hurry! If anybody has anything or knows where I might be able to get one then please let me know. Cheers Shane

Had the car on the dyno yesterday and with the turbo I've got on it now the wastegate isn't quite big enough. It's supposed to make 18psi but was making 21. I'm not too concerned but would prefer get it back down to 18. I can't find the box for my gate to see what size it is but I'm pretty sure it's a 38. So if anybody has a 44 or something along those lines they want to sell then let me know. Cheers Shane

I didn't realise the weights were so close. I was thinking there was like 100kg+ difference. Sounds like the C33 might be the go for something different As far as Tyres go, I was running Bridgestones and have now switched to Dunlops. I found the Dunlops are about half a second to a second quicker than the Bridgestones at both tracks. Lawson, Fulton, Pease, Garwood, Warren, etc all run Dunlops and most run the R compound. Bridgestone and Dunlop are around the same price but the Bridgestones seem to wear a bit better so it depends on your budget. Once you get your steering geometry and pressures right you can get good wear out of the Dunlops but everything has to be spot on. If you go that way then Fulton gives very good advice on how to set the car up for them when he sells them to you. Cannan & Grace have been running Toyos lately and getting good results. I'm keen to try a set cause they're quite a bit cheaper! Thanks Leigh. That sucks that you can't get the time off work, it'll be an awesome event. I can't afford to do it but I'm doing it anyway

Check out this link: http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-2601 A few rough rules that were set in place at the start of last season but it's still very open. Basically, as long as it doesn't get too close to sport sedan specs then nobody will worry what you run. Out of your car choices I would choose the R32. Best bang for buck targa class car getting about in my opinion. A well set-up R32 would have to be the cheapest way to run towards the front of B. Build a good 25/30 for it and you could run at the front of A. S13 you're limited to a 4 cylinder and it seems hard to make big power reliably out of an SR. Having said that, Lawson has the lap record for both tracks using an SR20 but his budget is a bit different to most people and his is a very well developed and set-up car. R33 and C33 are both at a disadvantage to the R32 because of weight. No offense intended Woolls As Stu said, if you have somebody in a 4WD doing the base time for B then they will always get a 2-3 second break off the start and the only way to catch them is to break the base time and get penalised. I've noticed Ross Marsden's R32 is up for sale on MY105. Has plenty of power and good brakes, just needs the suspension sorted a bit more and it should run on the targa B base time at both tracks. Targa class is starting to create some interesting opportunities. As you know, they got to run with the supercars at Symmons this year. On the 7th & 8th of November a mob of us are heading over to Phillip Island to run as a support for the Supercars again.

Your car sounds like it should be a good thing. Targa A maybe? You need to apply for a provisional circuit license if you want to run rounds of the super series. I'd suggest joining the Hobart Sporting Car Club or the MG Car Club as both of these will get you a $20 discount on your entry fee each round.

Well done to woolls who picked up his first round win and I think his first race win in the same day? A best lap of 60.4 isn't messing about either http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....7/2009.BASK.R12

I have a Turbosmart dual stage boost controller I'm looking to sell. I've bought a variety of springs for the wastegate to change boost levels so I no longer need it. It's in excellent condition and I'm looking for $150. PM me if you're interested

No longer needed

I'm after a standard R32 front bar to get my mates Skyline back on the road. Surely these things must be kicking about everywhere????

Do you have the front brake calipers? If so can you let me know a price? Cheers

Would you sell just the front calipers without the rotors? If so then what price?

Do you have the front brake calipers? If so then what price?

Price for front brake calipers?

Sold!

I bought this a few months ago to install on my 240Z but am considering going for a new Haltech E6X instead. I have not attempted to install it on the car yet and it has a wiring loom to suit a rotary. If I can get what I paid for it ($550) or close to that then I'll sell it and go for the new model. If I don't get any interest in it by the end of the year then I'll go ahead and install it. information sheet for the E6S: http://www.mrm-racing.a.se/pdf/e6s.pdf user manual, software, and wiring diagrams can be downloaded at: http://www.haltech.com/index.php?option=co...5&Itemid=61 PM me for contact details if you're interested. I'm located in the Huon Valley.

Looks like I've found all the parts I need now. Thanks to DJRIFT, FICTION & NICKCEFFY for their help.