RichyR32GTR

Blitz check your PM

Can I have the following: 1) both back 1/4 window interior surrounds - only if good condition 2) drivers seatbelt 3) cabin temp sensor in bottom right of stereo surround 4) sunload sensor in corner of bottom left windscreen and top left of dash Let me know prices Cheers

Can I have the following: 1) both back 1/4 window interior surrounds - only if good condition 2) drivers seatbelt 3) cabin temp sensor in bottom right of stereo, aircon, 3 gauge surround 4)sunload sensor in corner of bottom left windscreen and top left of dash Let me know prices as I guess it all comes under interior?

I'm interested as well. Looking at a build but want to still drive the line. As per previous post, what does it come with? PS I'm south of you so can pick up to avoid transport issues.

I'll take it. You got a photo of the pro sticker on one of the Chips under the cover? Like this one for an RB25? Or if you were running it in your car i'll take your word. Call me on 0419905263

My once a month thrash!

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Found this in an article somewhere which interested me. I though i'd share it. In most oxygen sensors there is a zirconia element that, when heated to temperatures above approximately 300 degC, produces voltages that are based on the oxygen content surrounding the sensor tip as compared to the oxygen in the atmosphere. Oxygen sensors perform this comparison through an atmospheric reference orifice in the sensor housing which, depending where the oxygen sensor is located on the exhaust system, is on the outside of the exhaust manifold, engine pipe or catalytic converter. If the atmospheric reference orifice is blocked with road grime, mud or in some cases, dried crankcase oil, the performance of the sensor will be impaired to a point that will result in poor fuel economy, excessive exhaust emissions and in severe cases vehicle drivability problems. Always visually inspect the oxygen sensor. If it is externally covered with any form of contaminant there is a very good likelihood that the sensor will not perform to optimum capacity due to the atmospheric reference orifice being blocked. Pay particular attention to oxygen sensors that are located in the exhaust system under the vehicle floor pan as they are prone to mud contamination. R32 GTR's and RB30's There are other types of oxygen sensors that utilise a heater but have a manufactured housing, which is fitted with a special titania/ceramic probe, which has five layers of alumina at the base of the probe tip. In one of the layers is a heater whose function is to raise the temperature of the titania/ceramic probe and keep it at a predetermined operating temperature. The sensor is arranged in the exhaust system in such a manner that the outer surface of the titania/ceramic probe lies in the exhaust gas flow. The inner surface is, of course, in contact with the atmosphere through the reference orifice. The sensor is activated at high temperatures when the titania/ceramic material is capable of oxygen ion conductivity.

It still for sale???

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These injectors are for: Nissan Skyline HCR32 RB20DET - 800cc - Top , High Impedance, 2 Hole, Purple (Pic 9) Time 1.6 msec (From Nengun's Site) Using the 63565 part number in photo

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Come-on man. It clearly states in http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RU...SSI-t76463.html 1. When starting a new thread, you must include a set price, or at the very least a ballpark figure that you are looking for. EOI's are not permitted, if you want to auction your gear then use e-bay There are PLENTY of people parting there cars out. Just copy their prices.

I'm after a 2nd hand set of 2530's, low kms, hks actuators and preferably accumpanied by dump pipes and front pipe of some sorts to suit R32 GTR.

A little on Motor Oils for you all. The way that oil viscosity is referred to is by its weight. In this case, "weight" refers to the thickness of the oil and is usually measured with a Zahn cup. Any liquid has some viscosity and that viscosity changes depending on its temperature. Usually, viscosity (thickness) decreases as temperature increases. This also is true of engine oil. Engines need a thin oil at startup, so that it can get to the engine components quickly, but it needs a thicker oil when the engine is hot because a thin oil becomes too thin. This is why engine oils are supplied as dual-grade weights. When you see 10W-30 on an oil container, it means that it acts like 10 weight oil when it is cold (the "W" means winter, say -10^C), but acts like 30 weight oil when hot (100^C). This is not to say that it is actually thicker when it is hot. Hot 30 weight oil is thinner than cold 10 weight oil. Even so, it still helps provide the benefits of both types of oil depending on its temperature. So 0W-30 oil acts like 0 weight oil when cold, but maintains a 30 weight viscosity when hot. Think of it this way: when your engine is hot, there is basically no difference between 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 oil. They are all acting like 30 weight oil at this point. It's at cold startup, when almost all engine wear occurs, that the viscosity is different. The 0 weight oil will get to the engine components quicker than the 10 weight oil, but in reality cold 0 weight oil is still thicker than hot 30 weight oil. On the other hand when the engine is cold, there is no difference between 10W-30 and 10W-40 oil. However when the engine is hot, the 10W-40 oil is thicker than the 10W-30. This is why single-grade oils are very bad. Straight 30 weight oil is way too thick when cold to properly lubricate the engine. The only way to use single weight oil is to have an oil pan heater to bring the oil up to operating temperature (about 140^F or 60^C) before the engine is ever started. If you simply must use it, this type of oil should only be used in race engines with pan heaters. As far as what oil viscosity is best, it depends who you ask. The fact is that engine oil maintains its viscosity better than ever and synthetics maintain it the best. In my opinion, the best viscosity for all weather is 5W-30. The reason is that both 5W-30 and 10W-30 breakdown at about the same point. Lighter oil can get into places that the heavier oil cannot and will get there more quickly, even when cold, so why go heavier? The only reason would be leaks. If you have oil leaks, a heavy oil will go through them more slowly. That is why you can buy "No-Smoke", which is basically sludge to thicken your oil. If your engine is sealed well, feel free to try a 0W-30 oil. If that "0" really makes you nervous, stick with 5W-30. 10W-30 is unnecessarily thick when cold. THE method of classifying engine oil is complicated to the uninitiated. Unfortunately, there are as many differences in the performance of the different oils sold, as there are classifications. Engine oils cleanse, cool and lubricate. The ideal oil maintains its cleansing, cooling and lubrication properties in-between oil changes, although this is seldom ever achieved. The two main engine oil specifications that we should note are the SAE viscosity and the API classification. Oil viscosity is an indicator of its ability to flow, that is, how liquid it is. The higher the viscosity, the heavier or thicker the oil. The viscous property of any liquid is highly dependent on temperature – oil flows much more easily at higher temperatures. It’s very important to remember this when determining which oil to use in a specific application, and the expected ambient temperature or range of temperatures. Traditionally, viscous oils (with high SAE numbers) are suitable for use in high temperature applications, and vice versa. But most modern multi-grade oils are blended to operate over a wide range of temperatures, from low winter temperatures right up to the high temperatures found in the tropics. The API or ‘S’ classification addresses issues like deposit control, oxidation, corrosion, rust and wear. As oils blends improve, this classification is constantly updated. Hence, oil with SC classification supercedes SD oil. The latest classification is SM. It was introduced in November 2004 to provide better oxidation resistance, improved deposit and wear protection, and better low temperature performance. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications. Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs. With regards to turbos, the manufacturers recommended oil weights are chosen specifically for that engine and the turbos are designed around this to make sure that the oil passages are big enough for enough oil to flow at startup to prevent bearing wear/seizure. I takes only a matter of minutes for bearings to start failing when there is not enough oil due to the speeds they spin at. When a turbo is hot the same principle applies. The oil must be thin enough for the oil to flow adequately, yet thick enough to have effective heat transfer and lubrication properties. If it's too thin you have oil film shear. Basically when choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation. When your car is getting older (more worn) choose an oil that has a slightly thicker "high temperature" viscosity than recommended. Damn!! the more i read the more complicated it gets.. going to bed.. my head hurts. Hope this shines a little light.

Bl4ck32 is Right. Standard Thicknesses new are Front - 32mm, Rear - 18mm Wear limit is Front - 30mm, Rear - 16mm (Straight from the Manual) 27mm is hideously over warn!! Cheers

please email pics of front pipe to [email protected] Cheers

Wouldn't the easiest way to test plenums be to rig up 6 individual high temp sensors in each of the exhaust ports straight after the head? After getting each injector flow tested and calibrated for exactly the same flows. Same flow from injectors + different cylinder exhaust temps = bad plenum. You'd need to know how your plenum is working / not working to be able to change it though. Then you have different pressures (diff turbos) affecting ait distribution. Hmmm.. like you said before... Too hard basket

I wouldn't recommend doing any upgrades with the stock turbos. they are for stock and only stock. Although 1 bar they say is the limit for stockies, heard of too many people wasting motors with stock turbos, new and old due to not knowing bad history of car, over boosting for those special moments, etc. For peace of mind, i would look at steel turbos first of all. save yourself a $5k rebuild. I was lucky. didn't blow my motor from ceramic crap being bounced back in when the front turbo let go. got mine wound back to stock boost till i can afford what i want.

I guess you could look at it this way. You dont go about buying a $100000+ (cost of new) car, even after 10+ years, and expect it to be cheap to fix when things go wrong. And things, the majority of the time, WILL GO WRONG. There are so many variables involved when youre looking at reliability of a 10yr+ old race bred performance car. You truely can't expect to buy something that wont fail. No matter what anyone says. Only safe way is to assume your buying a dud and get it fully serviced and inspected. After all, Japan isn't Australia.

Is this sold yet mate?

why would you want r34's instead of n1's? just curious. Cheers Richy

My torque guage starts to move as soon as i start boosting. If i take a corner hard and power into it, guage goes way up. Always has been like this since i got it. If it's constanly on 10, you have tire size issues. I got a flat and chucked the Nissan cheese cutter (space saver) on, i have 17", cheese cutter is 16", and my guage stayed on 10 all the time.

Another 2 cents.. I read somewhere that the hicas light will come on if an aftermarket steering wheel is installed and the steering wheel position sensor is not relocated correctly. If i drive in a straight line (open highway) for a couple of minutes without moving the wheel much , my light comes on and stays on till i turn off and restart the car. I know this is my problem as i have a momo steering wheel. Haven't got around to fixing the sensor yet though

Just wanted to say, nice car mate!! You got taste! Cheers