Bomba

Eucalyptus oil

When you find out let me know, I'll buy it off you if the price is right

You'll find 255/35's aren't too "thin", as far as ride harshness I can hardly notice the difference between them and the stocko's. If you look at the comparison pic the side wall is still quite tall. As for option1 not having them, they don't show all the sizes on the site. If you email option1 during business hours (or contact them through their thread on here) you'll find they'll either have them or will be getting them in shortly. They order frequently and if they are out it wont be long until they have some again. Again I highly recommend the 595's in 255/35's, they fit spot on. FYI tyres fit differently depending on brand, for example Kumho KU31's in 255's look the same as 595's in 265's (too baggy for 9inches). Have you considered the Kumho's??? I was going to get them in 245/35's until I saw the 595 255's on my rims, mmmmmm sexy!

Highly recommend the 595's! I got them about a month ago and they are an awesome street tyre. Go with option1, even with postage you wont find cheaper, and extremely good service to boot! What width are your rims? I'm running 18x9 +35's and went with 255/35's. They are the perfect width for 9 inch rims and look sweet! You'll find 245/40's have a much larger diameter than stock (595's however don't come in 245/35's) where as 255/35's are as near as dammit exact.

Hi Guys, I'm getting a dump/front pipe and cat from Just Jap and am wondering which cat to get? The Catco cat comes with a hole for the exhaust temp sensor and the x-force doesn't. from what I can see my car (R34GTT auto) doesn't have a sensor. Should it have one? If not, why does the Catco (cat I'd prefer) come with the hole?

Attention R34 owners I have just done this mod without cutting or stripping any wires and it works. 1) Unplug the solenoid 2) Feed wire through the ecu plug side and reconnect plug. (see pics on post 231 on pg12) ignore warning as he had a different problem (see post 355 pg18) 3) Turn ignition on but not engine 4) R34's have an earthing strap from the engine that earths on the chassis just below the solenoid via a spade plug. Attach other end of wire here. 5) You will here the solenoid 'click'. 6) Drive around on high boost below 4500 revs. Took less time to perform the mod than it did to write this post Side note for those who want a switch for fuel economy. There are 3 pedals in the drivers side foot well. The far right one is the fuel economy switch. It's a good switch as it's progressive and not just an on/off switch

Ah so sue me Just finished a 12hr shift, just read GTR....... So how does it fit against the bonnet? Pics are too small to work it out. It couldn't fit over the bonnet cause how would you open it? anybody enlighten us? St Lucia hey? I actually bought my 34 from there! Must congratulate you on your choice of colour too Cameron's Body Works in coopers plians are very good, as are bradys body works in acacia ridge. I might be a little biased as I am a local though....

That's GTR bar so it wont fit........... Where in Brissie are you?

I just removed my 25GT T badge off my R34 this morning and the fishing line works a treat I used a hot water and sugar soap solution then the fishing line It still left some glue on the paint so I then used eucalyptis oil with a paper towel followed by the sugar soap solution. I was very hesitant about using harsh solvents on the paint so I went with eucalyptis oil which I have always used for getting stickers off. After cleaning the outline was still visible so I polished it and it's all gone

Hi Guys, Will 245's (245/35/18) cause any handling/steering issues on the front of an R34GTT with stock (to be upgraded in a few months) suspension? Wheels are 18x9 +35 so I know there wont be any clearance issues with guards. (FYI rears are the same but will have 265/35's) I know the steering feel will be harder but will there be any actual handling issues? I know GTR's have 245's on the front but a) they have 4wd and b) they have different suspension. What about mechanical issues? ie strain on power steering pump, rack etc. I'm still considering 235's but I'm a little worried about having that stretched look (not for me) on the 9 inch rim. Any thoughts/concerns welcome. Thanks, Chris

Hi Guys, What tool is best for trimming the front bar to make an intercooler fit? I'm thinking a recipricating saw but maybe an angle grinder might be better. I guessing either way the cut will be rather rough and some sanding will be required but I want to make the cuts as clean as possible and with out risk of overcutting/accidental cutting.

No, you need to get adjustable bushes

I'm starting to think it's the tyres too. I'm running stock wheels with 225/45/17 tyres which are only 6months (11,000k's) old but they are crappy Achilles which I'm guessing were the cheapest the complier could find! I just put around 275k's on the car this weekend and overall it is better. When I travel in the right hand lane on the M1 it will actually drift right but nowhere near as much as a left cambered road. Also the overall steering feel is alot more responsive than before. A bit unsetteling to begin with as the car was very responsive anyway but I'm used to it now.

I heard the same thing, unfortunately the new caster bushes didn't fix the issue

Steering is perfect, no slack whatsoever, no vibration at any speed everything is 100% even just checked the ride height and all 4 are 380mm! Hopefully someone can help?????

OK car is back....... STILL Pulling left!!! They have done everything they can and there is no difference? The bushes are adjusted to maximum. They had a power steering expert look at it because sometimes racks can be the cause but it's fine. Tyres are 5000k's old recently rotated and balanced. Wheel alignment is spot on. Car has never been in an accident. The only thing I can think of is the HICCAS playing up? Does anyone have any idea's? P.S I was really happy with the sevice from Driveline, they even dropped the alignment charge.

Which Fulcrum? The one on Fairfeild RD is where I went and they just did me up a big quote and charged me $27 for it I'm a bit iffy with thier Alignment machine as the 2 other machines my car has been on came back with similar settings but Fulcrums was way off. Car is at Driveline now, they even dropped me home and are picking me up when the car is ready

Factory settings are below: (note this is for stock suspension) Front Camber -0degrees45' +/- 45' Caster 6degrees 35' +/-45' Toe (mm) 0 to In 2 Rear Camber -0degrees55' +/- 30' Toe (mm) 0 to Out 5.2 Note that Camber and Caster are in Degrees and minutes

Yeah that's them, I'll post up my results this arvo before you call them, just incase

Had a hold up today (my fault) so car is booked for tomorrow 10am. $390 @ Driveline in Archerfield (Bushes, labor + alignment). I'm impressed with the service so far but I am reserving judgement untill I'm driving away tomorrow.

Does it have to be a Cusco bar? Whiteline do a very good adj front swaybar (Part Number: BNF24Z)

Took it down to a local joint and they'e readings were alot better than Fulcrums! They had their alignment machine calibrated last week and the figures were very close to the alignment I had done 5 months ago. Without any sugestion from me they came to same conclusion as Fulcrum that I needed to adjust the castor and therefore get the bushes. I showed them Fulcrum's quote and they said that they would be getting the parts from Fulcrum and could still do it cheaper Car is booked for Thursday........

I wouldn't say they were stuffed. The car although a '99 model has only done 44,000k's although there's alot more play than new items and there is cracking in the rubber on the faces. I intend on doing an entire suspension upgrade in the new year when I intend on doing some track work so hopefully they should be fine till then. Or do you think I should bite the bullet now? Apparently Whiteline do a fully adjustable arm that might be on the list when I do the lot.

Thanks for the help gunmetalgrey, The $500 was $100 for the alignment, $133 for the bushes and $200 for labour + GST + me rounding it up! There is a place in Springwood called City Suspension who apparently do good work, my mate has taken his S15 there before and been happy so I'll try them. Is the right rear toe the main issue here? Anything from 0.0 to +1 is good? same for the front? I'm after street specs and I do alot of K's so a sports set up isn't needed at the moment.

Yes they charged me $27 to give me a quote for $500 to fix a simple alignment issue! There was alot of play in the castor bushes which I will probably rectify in the future. I had an alignment done 5 months ago and it didn't solve the problem then either. Is there anyway of doing the toe myself? can I fix it simply but turning the tie rod end in one turn on the right hand front and doing a similar thing to the rear? On that note I am a bit confused by the rear setting, 0.0 seems good but -1.5 is weird! -ive toe on rear would mean it points out hey? does the rear wheel steering work in the oposite to the front? ie turning right the rear wheels turn left?