R33Turbo

Rolls: What, so you have resolved ur crunch problem? What oil are you using now? DrPheel: yeah im thinking that the 'timing belt' being louder may be just the belt wearing out.

thanks alot dude... so this starter motor issue, why does the sound go away when i turn the engine back off then back on when its warmed up? The sounds only there when its cold and hasn't been warmed up for the day.

oh alright, thanks for ur help there blind_elk... so ppl are suggesting it could be the 'start motor' dying out, maybe it could be... then again it could be cuz my oil is to thick for the weather these days if thats wat ur saying blind_elk... i think i'd try thinner oil to see if it goes away.... If it was the 'starter motor', where is it? how much to repair or replace?

thanks alot for the input man. maybe it is the starter motor! how much is it to replace? or repair? aproximately? is it still driveable (as the sound goes away)? Also i get louder engine ticking sound especially in the morning rather than when it was warmed up? could that be related?

Im planning on doing that if i have time for it, however can't do it at the moment. Does that mean 10W50 is real heavy compared to average oils as well?

what do you mean by turn my a/c off? like disconnect the whole thing? cuz my a/c will obviously be off when im starting the engine in the 'cold morning'.

Nope, as i mentioned above the the 'crunch' sound which sounds like 'gear crunch' is only to be heard for 1-2 sec after engine start then goes away. However, if i turn the engine back off and on to hear the sound again, it will still be there (when the car has not yet warmed up properly). If its been warmed up properly, you would not hear the sound regardless of how many times you turn the engine on and off repetitively, hence is why i cannot show the mechanic as i got to drive there with my car.

anymore suggestions please? u gotta be kidding me if no one have experienced anything similar to this?

It sounds like a split sec longer 'gear crunch' sound if thats helpful!

oh alright, thanks for your input nizmonut. So you think thinner engine oil might resolve the issue? So the one im using right now 'Elf Sythentic Oil 10W50' is too thick or what? any other inputs would be much appreciated.

actually it could more sound like short 'gear crunches' as well. Basically, if the sound dies down after warm-up, it wouldn't be engine head related or anything severe right? So it wouldn't do any harm driving it around?

well i shoulda made it clear before, it sounds more like someone quickly crushing a aluminium coke can

Hi guys, I get a loud crunch for about 1-2 sec everytime i start the engine and also loud tapping sound (sounds like pistons) when i first start my car in the cold morning. Now if i was to warm the car up, take it for a drive then turn the engine off to start it back up again to look for the sound, the sounds gone away due to it being warmed up. Hence, why is the reason i can't take it to any mechanic to show the issue. Ive only noticed this loud crunch for 1-2 on cold start after ive changed my oil to 'Elf Synthetic Oil 10W50'. This is pretty much all the relevant information i can provide from my knowledge, and also that the sound is coming from under the hood on the passengers side, kinda sounds like its coming from the head area on the passengers side where the turbo is and all. Could it be that im using a real thick oil, hence is why its making weird noises on cold start till its warmed up? Note: The crunch sound is only for about 1-2 sec on cold start and not constant whilst idling in cold or driving. Much appreciated for any helpful response.

Hi guys, I get a loud crunch for about 1-2 sec everytime i start the engine and also loud tapping sound (sounds like pistons) when i first start my car in the cold morning. Now if i was to warm the car up, take it for a drive then turn the engine off to start it back up again to look for the sound, the sounds gone away due to it being warmed up. Hence, why is the reason i can't take it to any mechanic to show the issue. Ive only noticed this loud crunch for 1-2 on cold start after ive changed my oil to 'Elf Synthetic Oil 10W50'. This is pretty much all the relevant information i can provide from my knowledge, and also that the sound is coming from under the hood on the passengers side, kinda sounds like its coming from the head area on the passengers side where the turbo is and all. Could it be that im using a real thick oil, hence is why its making weird noises on cold start till its warmed up? Note: The crunch sound is only for about 1-2 sec on cold start and not constant whilst idling in cold or driving. Much appreciated for any helpful response.

At the moment, my dream car = GTR R34 V-Spec II (Only because i want a better version of my GTT) But in reality, i guess it means what i can actually afford in reality at this current stage...So its my GTT R34 Also wouldn't mind S15

lol thought u were worried about boost drop in between gear shifts due to putting the clutch in lol

justcars are 50%!? then how did my friend get it repaired (at their cost of $13000) and didn't get it written off. BTW his car is a 98 gtt r34, shoulda been insured for 20-21k as it was bought at that price range. Also, i been told it was 75%

GTR R33 was only 22k nowa days? thats a real drop R34 GTT = 20k ???? I saw most r34's on the 24k mark with reasonably low km's but most of them are coloured black/white. Silver/yellow/red i see around for 20k mark R32 GTS-T = 7k!??? you kidding? shouldn't it be atleast 10k? To be honest i think the price drops are at its limit except for the gtr's and gtt r34.

if it does im taking it

only if the gearknob didn't have playboy on it

WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY! is the momo steering wheel soLD???

lol yer $350 could be abit over-priced but $120 is under-priced. Most ppl sell it for $200-$250

on the 100km/h speed limit motorway ofcourse, M2 from Lane Cove all the way down to Blacktown

just put in de-cat pipe

i remember you were talking about this in some other thread about the best bov positioning. at the moment i put in HKS SSQV (the one with bolt at the back), and im having shittier response. its got the rb25 adaptor so i just screwed it onto where the factory BOV goes onto, blocking the pumb back pipe. This is positioned so that the screw at the back of the BOV faces outwards (facing the ABS unit direction). is this alright or could this be a bad setup? Should it face the other way? cuz it didn't really fit facing the other way (all my previous BOV faced the other way and had no response issues).