Don Dada

That nissan ecu is a boss!!

Ive heard those O5U pistons are best for high boost, so 28psi on a big frame like gt42 will be a walk in the park. Just scrape off the carbon and polish up the top of those pistons with some autosol and it will be like brand new again.

Yer...A little extra carbon on 1&2 but thats it.

Seems like the bottom line is the missing constant 12volt to pin 58. Do you get a 12v at pin 58 when you plug in the oem ecu?.....because I cant see the oem ecu working without a constant 12v there anyway. And dont worry about pin 3&5 on the relays as well, they could be either way around once one goes to pin 49,59and 109, and the other goes to a 12v once the relay is energized. Likewise with pin 1&2, once one goes to pin 16 and the other to a 12v Have you tried placing the missing10A fuse as per Pauls faq? Otherwise, you are good to go with with hard wiring it as you suggested.

The column right next to where you entered the 66% is where you have to enter the new latency values you have worked out. ie. New latency - Old latency = value to enter. I believe the rb25 inj are 370cc and 0.528ms Set back the inj lag vs batt to the default values and also dont forget to select z32(vg30) in the aif flow options on tab 3

You can get det even though you throw alot of fuel in there, as with ign timing. Best bet is to get it on the dyno, set up your fuel and then play with timing, Add a couple of degrees at a time and see how it responds power wise and look at knk levels of course. When you reach the point where it makes no more power or very little for the changes made, back it off a few degrees for safety and yo should be good to go......Only way to know, as you wont feel these changes on the road.

What is the problem? You find knk reading is too low?

It should have been spun manually every few mths, but in any case you could remove the spark plugs and throw like a cap full of oil in each cylinder and probably just add some thru the filler cap....But most important when its time to start unplug the cam sensor and turn it over for a while so some oil will circulate before actually starting.

Try another ignitor and CAS

Stock rb26 ecu run around 24* at 0.9bar, so youre a little advanced ign wise around peak torque area. You should get a wideband on it and look at the afrs just to make sure. Ive heard audible knk from a rb26 and the controller only read 30's so be careful with it especially in the off to on boost areas at cruising speed in the higher gears

What machine work you refer to? If i get a set of used valves(12),wouldnt it be just a matter of giving them all a fine lap and just checking clearances to make sure they are within spec?

Well got some time to scrap out the intake cam and manifold and pour kerosene in the ports and well it instantly emptied out no. 3&4 and it also leaked out all of the other cylinders but at varying rates, some just barely seeped through. Is it supposed to seal 100% so that absolutely no kerosene should pass through? Remember 1,2,5,6 read basically perfect compression.

Has anyone find any online calculator or link to get proper results?

whats the reason for not using back an oem gasket?

Car does daily duties on this set up > http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-42 And the above for a drag day. Notice the backend was changed and also no WMI is used alongside the C16 as it kills the power. Afrs are around 12.0 so injs have a little room still.....and so does the turb Havent sorted the suspension for it to hook and put down an Et yet tho.....

Stock head/block 550cc inj Chinese exh manifold Chinese intake manifold 44mm gate z32 afm pfc Gtx 3076 0.82 @26psi C16 362 rwkw

Yea...Engine was perfectly healthy before. When I look off the head I was able to spin the intake cam by hand and watch the valves open and close. It was a little hard to turn in some spots but I guess thats normal depending on the position of the lobes against the buckets. Will see if I get some time to do the kerosene test for now and I guess that would confirm leaky valves on 3&4....and if so then removal and inspection of the guides

True, but wouldnt that be along the lines of spun bearings? I dont really see any oil related issues leading to loss of compression. And all the bores look normal/same

Blackkers .A very bad one! Put it this way....The car wasnt on the wheels when it came to a stop and both engine mounts broke off clean Was thinking of trying that test too, but havent gotten time yet

K guys....I'll try to make it as short as possible so here goes... Car was in accident and after being down for a while decided to give it a go, so turned the engine(rb26) via the crank bolt and everything seemed fine. Tried to start and it constantly fouled plugs.Killed the fuel pump and barely got it goin(didnt really start) and heard tapping in the head so checked cam timing and both intake and exh cams skipped four teeth. Set back timing as normal and did compression test. 1,2,5,6= 150-160psi, 3= 0psi, 4= 30psi. So all intake valves kissed the pistons Valves looked normal tho Number 4 Number 3 Piston after cleaning the carbon off The pistons dont look bad at all. From what i see it basically just smoothed out the rough finish on the piston top from the hit, but nothing I think a little rub with a piece of emery wouldnt fix. Soooo....Im thinking the loss of compression is due to bent intake valves on number 3 and 4 even tho all of them look the same as the other cylinders??? My question is.....Can I get away with changing just the intake valves without touching anything else? If so,I think I would change out all even though 1,2,5,6 read good compression.... and this leads me to another question.....How come only 3 and 4 lost compression? Shouldnt all the intake valves hit the piston to the same degree and cause the same damage across the board? as I did crank the engine like 20 times trying to get it to start! What do you guys think

Ok guys, want to play with the INJ vs Accel TPS1 tab to clean up the transition a bit, but mine for the R33 Gtr is labelled different to the R34 gtr which was posted before. The R34 has "TPS (V/t)" which I am assuming is tps voltage, where as the R33 just has "Input"....and well both of them has the "setting" Question is.....Do i adjust the "Input" values or just lock them there and play with the "setting" values alone? And if so in what increments should i try at a time? The max the "setting" tab goes up to is 65535 but is set to 243 in the base map.......I hate to play with numbers in these tables when they have no units or reference! I have overlaid the R33 on the R34 version for reference.

Need to take the plunge guys..... Somebody, anybody, everybody.......???

Yea I know the gremlins associated with piggybacks but I just cant justify spending that kind of money on a standalone just for a little 'tidy up' of the maps.....Tuning however wouldn't be an issue because it will be done by myself. Haven't seen anything similar to nistune for these engines either, and the majority of guys who do go standalone go for the fcon vpro wired together with the oem ecu to control the auto box, as I think it also does the vvti.....and I dont think I need to mention tuning for this! Problem is there is info floating around, most based on the USDM supra, but not the 98 vvti models which either way seem to have problems with the emu, and on the flip side, some say the JDM versions work ok with it . And there is lots about the aristo with the 2jzgte also, but again the older models without the vvti Seems like the vvti ecu is a lil sophisticated like the r34, and hence very limited aftermarket tuning options available

Right, just a lil recap..... Since this thread was started for recommendations for a piggy back ecu for the 1JZ, I thought i'd just keep it here one time.... I have a JDM 2Jzgte vvti auto in an Atisto and have been busting my balls trying to find a simple ecu just to tidy up the afrs and timing with the addition of a wmi kit (only 95 here) and boost up of a few psi. Its going to remain stock turbs, inj etc. Was also looking for one that would have a boost cut control(clamp) and a speed cut control so I was leaning towards the emanage ultimate. I browsed through the supra fourms and have gotten lots of conflicting reports about the emu so just throwing it up here for advice. My main concern is timing control and the issue of the stock ecu fighting the emu So what do you guys think? And any other recommendations without busting the bank?

All Rb26 specific bolt on turbos made by garrett have built in restrictors in the oil feed....Hav a look