Don Dada

Unplug the pump get two wires and connect it directly to the batt. to see if it works. If it does, get a multimeter or if you dont have one use a park light/indicator bulb or similar get two wires and connect it to where the pump would normally plug in and see if you get power when the ign is switched on There is also a relay for the pump...check that as well

Looks like a 1 way to me

Where's this dood???

Do eeeeet!!! Graphs of two pls....with RPM Thank you Pls come again edit... An update this guys thread while youre at it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/322850-garrett-gt2860-9s/

Dont think thats even possible....diffferent connectors

The pfc will show an indicaton that it activated the circuit for it to work weather it is connected or not same as say the fuel pump,a/c etc....weather the device is connected or buggered or whatever that is a different story PFC is a multimeter

Ign on engine off HC> etc> sensor/sw check> thro Should be around 0.4v without mashing and 4v to the floor

Shit....You made me google maroubra to see were that was....I thought it was somewhere where english wasnt the first language

Automatic trans use the second plug Maybe your car was auto that was converted to manual

Good....well get one and slap it on and see how it goes

Haha....Ill do it for $190. Its recommended that you get a cooler and exhaust before you do this though....do some reading there is plenty info around concerning this.

If your mechanic told you you can get 10psi by remapping the ecu, you need to get a new meahanic. An increase in boost can only be had by using a boost controller or in this case upgrading the actuator to one with a stiffer spring like the rb20det The rb20 actuator is a direct swap and something you can do yourself with basic tools and boost should be in the vicinity of 10psi maybe a little more if you have bigger exhaust However you may experience what we call R&R (rich and retard) which bacially makes the car loose power up in the revs but this varies from car to car, so the only way to find out is to actually try it

sounds like u need to exercise your "rist" a little more

Oh noes....yoou left your spark plug slack

Sounds good so far.... disco may be able to shed some more light on the numbers Have you compared the turbine....if not, you should I have never done it but maybe you could get some modelling clay or similar and make impressions of one and compare to the other

Only plugs that are on that side engine wise are the 2 knk sensors on the block, oil press sender on the oil filter/cooler housing and the air regulator under the plenum

Cool man... Besides measuring the ind / exd of the wheels you should also make sure the profile or angles of the fins are identical for both the comp and turbine.....this of course involves removing the housings which shouldnt be hard on new units

Y are you purposely trying to hit the limiter?

Did you measure them up Trustr32?

-5

How do the plugs look? Is the color consistent across all?

^^^^In before me.... I'm not sure if measuring up the wheels would tell the whole story.....Yes you would get the overall inducer and exducer diameter but what about the other wheel design factors that can make it flow differently? I think you can calculate the trim by measuring also? ....

Can you guys confirm that with gcg or some garrett dist up there???....Pretty pls???..... Where i'm from it useless...my guy thinks the -9 units I ordered are -7

Yea.... the "S" in the case of the Gt2860RS is in the model number itself and not the turbo part number, but as you said once the cartridge number is the same the wheel size,trim etc. will be exact. But....the cartridge number in the case of the -5 (446179-51) is not on the id plates to confirm such....if it was, there would be no worries. Are we to assume that once it has that 707160 - 5 on the id plate whether with or without the "S" the cartridge number will automatically be exactly the same???