Don Dada

Both of those turbos are -5 units, and yes the newer units seem to come with the 4 digits after the dash with the last of the 4 being the actual part number the leading 3 being either 000 or 500 So the same unit could be a 707160 - 5 .... 707160 - 5005 .... or 707160 - 0005 The problem now comes in with the "S" According to garrett the "S" versions flow a little different to their counterparts >>>quote "S" = used for units which require some differentiation from units in the same family Compare a GT2860R to a GT2860RS. While both are ball bearing and externally similar, the GT2860RS is better suited for higher-flow applications than the GT2860R. In this case, the S reflects the higher-flowing nature of the GT2860RS Now this (gt2860rs disco potato) is the only unit listed on garrett site with the "S" in the part number, the -5,-7 both GT2860R dont have the "S" attached on the site, but the question really is if indeed it is just a new labelling system where they add the "S" or is there actually a difference in the actual flow of the unit ??? I asked this same question a while back about the -9 / -1 as my supplier had one in stock which he got from garrett a couple of mths ago (GT2859R - 780371 - 5001) and had to order another but garrett said they only had the GT2859R - 780371 - 5001S available...The supplier used the same info on the invoice from the unit he already had to order the new unit so i'm still waiting to see what arrives or....and the unit he has now does not have the "S" on the id tag but there is one on the part number on the original garrett box, same, and vice versa for a few other tubs including a gt30r and gt42r he has in stock as well....but thats just a mass produced box so still no confirmation......

Well then there is no possible way of the ecu seeing a voltage input so I cant think of any reason why the afr would cycle... just saying even if O2 feedback was indeed on and seeing erratic readings from the dud sensor when in closed loop Sounds like you have similar symptoms but a different issue

I really hope so........

hmmm..not connected as in not wired?

Being shipped from Japland.....i'm located behind gods back tho.....not in Aus

What the...>!!!!! where is the other screw???

Yea these sort of threads always bring up the shits of using innovate I have been using the aem uego for may be close to 3yrs now permanently installed in the car and has not given me any wierd readings at anytime, responds quick and logs are very consistent

I have O2 feedback on (pfc) and it cycles between 14.1-15.7afr when cruising, and yes i can feel the change in the "beat" of the engine similar to what Hanaldo is describing, and it clearly goes in time to when the gauge cycles from lean to rich and back Sometimes it is worse than others but it is noticeable....never paid attention to when it is worse so i dont know if its related to operating temp but i'll monitor it now to see Either way I just thought that it was normal due to the engine getting varying amts of fuel from being in closed loop as my O2 sensors voltage looks good and cycles as normal .........it does not do it if I turn off O2 feedback

^^^^ ... 12 wks now and counting for mine to arrive Sean...u got any results yet with the new actuators fitted and tuned?

Most of the time tuners focus on full throttle runs in a particular gear when tuning so there are lots of load pts that are not touched when on the dyno. The dyno is also different in terms of what load cell it would use compared to driving on the road under the same conditions....for instance i had a couple cells on part throttle that would knock only in fifth gear on the road, and purposely left it like that to go on the dyno and tune it out but when i was on the dyno trying to replicate it, i couldnt get it to knk for nuttin. So best bet is get someone with knk ears and hit the road as it seems that your prob is on part throttle as what you described

The stock turbo is capable of sending the ecu into protect mode far less for a high flow turbo When did the problem start? after the installation of the highflow? If not it will most likely to be something to do with the fuel system as u say it pings with more throttle......U know the difference between pinging and a misfire right?

What ecu?

I believe the ecu calculates its rev signal from the cas That harness you mentioned has a plug that nissan says is "engine speed detection terminal" so most likely this shorted when it burnt Try your ecu in another car...sounds like that tach output circuit is fried

If one needs a rebuild its more than likely the other would need to in the near future as well, as they would of been working side by side their entire life Do both so they would have the same internals and save yourself some headache down the road

Use a flat and pry up in the middle of the front....the whole portion needs to be lifted as you would see three tabs holding the yellow piece from coming out While you are prying the front get a next small flat and place it in the back of the yellow piece from behind and push it out....try to do it evenly and you will need someone to hold it steady for you When you get out the yellow piece there are three individual tabs holding each wire terminal in place Pry these down while holding the wire from behind and pulling it out at the same time .....these need to be moved a good bit for it to come loose. Waallllaaaaa.... Now reverse the whole process and lets head for the bar

Geeze its not rocket science..... Those plugs can easily be disassembeled , you just need a few precision srew drivers to get in there.....bear in mind however some of them can be very brittle and dont matter what you do, it will break, so you better hope your replacement is in good nick. Yes the yellow piece is what locks everything in place ,remove that first.... Experiment on the one you have to replace

X2

I hope he wasnt using that graph as a reference either

Hmmmmm....I would thought for a new release it might have used a BB cartridge to aid in spool time Always wondered the same for the Greddy 26 bolt ons as well I guess well just have to wait to see the results Who makes turbs for tomei btw?....

Are these units BB? The older ones wasnt right?

Most likely its not due to the sparkplug itself but something to do with the shit load of shit you had to move to get to the shittin plugs Check if all hoses are connected are in the right spot and all the joints of the piping are sealed and tight

^^^^ Youre a boss

I'm assuming youre talking about the msd 8969?.... Red - Pin 49 (Switched 12v +ve) Black - Pin 50 (Ground) White - Pin 7 (engine rev signal for tach) Yellow - Pin 113 (ground to switch vct solenoid) Cut this wire and connect the yellow wire to the end that goes out to the solenoid Grey - not used You can find both the manual for the msd and the ecu pinout for the rb25det online to figure out the pin layout ....Pin 113 is a light green with a red stripe if i remember correctly

Yeh I think there is a difference between auto and manuals as stated in the manuals...? Just run a std rb20 actuator for steady 10ish psi and get a controller if you want more

Snice we're on the topic..... I have a aftermarket matched length dump pipe for the twins that pass very close to the gearbox and I was thinking about wrapping it to avoid heating up the box. What i want to know is should I wrap just this one pipe alone, or should I wrap the both to keep the temp similar in both and therfore velocity? and all that simmidimmi ?