Don Dada

If you have the std piping you can drill and tap or weld a bung in the hard pipe with the bovs...my only concern with this being so close to the bovs is the spray that will be sent back to the compressors on slight lift off of the throttle while still over the boost level that you set the injection to start to spray at. The bovs will only open slightly and the spray wouldnt be much if its a progressive kit that youre using, but I really dont know what it will do the comps over a long period of time Anyway let us know how it goes as you might end up doing is before me Btw what kit are you using? http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry4868273

Is it always the case that torque will drop off after MBT if you keep adding timing? I was of the impression that it would just stop making any more torque.....I'm guessing it might be dependant on the set up itself?

Ahhh.....Have a look here> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/337236-tuning-afrs/

Geeze....why dont you guys just request rpm on your sheet to make it easier for you and everyone else to understand......

sounds like you're stuttering...... ???

Are you sure the -9 cartridge is available from Garrett? I remember Disco saying the gtss wasnt available....I'm assuming indirectly he meant the -9 / -1 as well.....

1)The A/R number refers to the compressor housing itself and not the wheel ...The wheel for the sr version is larger and trim is also different, so even if you machine both the comp and turbine housing of the gtr spec gtss(if possible at all) to fit the sr gtss cartridge, god alone knows how it would perfom. So to get the flow rates of the 0.6A/R housing you have to use the said housing along with its respective wheels. 2)Gtss cartridges are not available from Garrett 3)Gtr spec gtss have no HKS stamping on them. The only thing HKS about them are the actuators. If you give us the numbers on the id tag on the cartridge we can confirm for you. 4)^^^ and i have no idea about the sr version With that said just put the gtss on there as is....if it worked better on a rb26 with a 0.6A/R housing, hks would have given us that option. These turbos are good up to 300-320rwkw if you want more there are the HKS2530 or equivalent Garrett -5....these are not as big as the Gtrs but put down some good power too....lots of threads here on them

Should I run a Turbo Timer? A turbo timer enables the engine to run at idle for a specified time after the ignition has been turned off. The purpose is to allow the turbo to cool down thus avoiding "coking" ("coking" is burned oil that deposits on surfaces and can lead to blocked passages). The need for a turbo timer depends on how hard the turbo and engine is used. Running at full speed and full load then immediately shutting down (heat soak) can be extremely hard on a turbo. Water-cooling of the turbocharger's center housing has essentially eliminated the need for turbo timers or extended idling periods. Do I really need the cool down procedure on my turbo? The need for a cool down procedure depends on how hard the turbo and engine is used, and whether or not the turbo is water-cooled. All Garrett turbochargers must pass a heat soak test and the introduction of water-cooling has virtually eliminated the need for a cool down procedure. From Garrett site.

Launch eeet!!

She's gone from suck to blow!....Do something!

Well its more or less understood that Redline lightweight shockproof is the oil of choice for our aged gearbox, but I would like to know through experience what is the estimated life(km) before changeout is necessary. I'm going on 20,000kms and I think i'm up for a change Share your experiences pls. NB. This is NOT to debate on which oil is better for your gearbox....there are countless threads on that already!

Doesnt the aftermarket crank collars and a std r33/r34 crank measure up the same OD?

Yes gtr is the same Cant find it Its a rb26 ...but not in a gtr I dont think its on the main enigine harness tho, ie. the one that goes into the plastic rail along the intake side cam cover, but it has to link back to the ecu somehow obviously to get control on the solenoid

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/339433-lets-talk-td-06s/page__p__5482636__hl__lets+talk+__fromsearch__1#entry5482636

Yea...tested it and confirmed its a HARD fuel cut at 0.25kg/cm2 over the set target boost. Can someone tell me if the the 2 wire harness for the boost control solenoid comes off the main engine harness(gtr) or if it comes off the wiring some where else in the engine bay??....I

Get a power fc and run anyone u wish....or even none at all

Guess you got thru ?.. Next time then

I use the open end side of a 9/16 spanner....it shape allows it to lock in just right and act as a lever....,soak it with some wd40 and tap the other end with a hammer going around evenly...takes a little while but works every time.

Nice..... Will see how my little experiment goes......

Of course it can with some mods....but thats not the question he asked

Can someone tell me how does the overboost protection on a pfc equipped with a boost control kit works? I know it will do some sort of saftey cut when boost goes over target by 0.25kg/cm2, but does it just drop back boost by varing the duty cycle of the solenoid itself or does it do an internal fuel or ign cut?

Ohh really?? Yes the rubber piping will stretch, but it does not bolt on to a stock BNR32 airbox

No they wont Z32 has 80mm shell Oem rb26 has 65mm shell Nismo for direct replacement Carry on

9.5