Don Dada

Yea.. the better thing to do is wire over fresh, but the fact remains if the neg trigger out from the pfc is remaining on constantly there will be nothing you can do otherwise, hence my suggestion to test pin 18 first of all and then go from there

AFAIK the pfc primes the pump for a couple of seconds also and once it worked fine with the stock R33 ecu, I see no reason why it should not work with the pfc You can test the negative signal from the pfc (pin 18) by using a multimeter putting the neg probe on pin 18 and the pos probe on a constant 12v and turn on the ign and see if you get a 12v supply for a few secs.....If possible diconnect pin 18 from everything else so nothing interferes If you get a constant 12v your pfc is most likely screwed.

Never seen a high powered 25 neo out of Japland.........just sayin

I tried that whole thing already with the missus driving but it didnt work....couldnt get her to hold it steady in one cell for shit! Anyway slap the 35R on there and done with it.....I'm guessing it will be a 0.82 turbine which will be a little laggy, but should be lots of fun after 4500ish

It looks like you need to take off the original o ring that sits in the plenum and cut / grind off piece of the spacer where the allen bolt passes thru so the entire rail will now move down and hold the inj firmly in place using only the o ring on the inj

Do a compression test....sounds like broken ring lands or similar

I have never had cause to deal with the knk sensor jack but look carefully at the terminal, there is usually some little part or the terminal itself holding it in the housing You should be able to get at it with a saftey pin or similar to pry it while pushing out the terminal same time As i said, most of these jacks are designed this way, even the main ecu jack which allows you to swap around wires if needed.....I changed out all the jacks on my coil pack harness this way by using i think tps jacks from some GA15s

IIRC Rb20/25 uses the same round type jack and rb26 ues a rectangular jack simlar to their inj plug Did you burst the wire from the metal terminal? If so im sure it can come out of the housing(like almost all nissan jacks) and resolder. If its the wire comeplete with the terminal that came out just get a new plug housing from the wreckers an swap it out

Did you have a look at the nissan manual?

Cool...makes more sense now

Hmmmm...you didnt mention what boost, but does it mean you guys actually run less timing than the stock ecu therefore de-tuning the car for safety because of your 98 compared to the Japs 100? Hahaa rb26 .....but not for much longer i guess!

One side of the sw goes to pin 44 on the ecu and I believe the other side of the neutral sw goes to ground So grounding pin 44 directly simulates the car is in neutral (sw on) and floating it simulates its in a gear (sw off) I tried both ways and all other condition are good sooooo.........

In english pls?

Paul.... according to Tomei 1050- 4500rpm

Correct...green/orange Did try it ungrounded as well....no go The thing is its a conversion into a laurel as well so the wiring might not be 100% accurate, but AFAIK the neutral switch is the only thing that works along with the nvcs as the R33gtst has to be in a gear other than neutral for it to work.....on top of the fact that, it was an automatic now converted to manual and using a manual ecu How does a neutral switch work on a manual box? Its closed when the gear is in the neutral position right?....one side of the switch goes to the "neutral sw" pin 44 on the ecu an the next side of the switch goes where?

Yea...wire has continuity back to ecu(113) It has ign on the next pin at the solenoid jack Solenoid works with direct pwr

Yea...26 ecus do not suffer from r&r so you can rule that out As said before coil packs will most likely be youre problem or the ignitor Your coppers at .8 will be good to go...just keep the boost down until you get them coil packs sorted

Yea the sandwich plate it not ment to be over tightened Just yesterday my mate installed one and it poped out complete with the threading that holds the oil filter in the original spot. Looks like when they tightened it, it fractured, and when the oil pressure rose while driving it broke off the whole part that the little adapter bolts on to....remember its aluminium and soft so its not ment to be done up tight, but relys on the seal for it not to leak, just like an oil filter ...so get some new seals in there and do not over tighten!

Haha....yea it gets renamed alot here but i'll stick to Nissan Variable Cam System..... You know the long hex thingy that sits on the left side of the head in line with oil cover and it goes click when it activates

I've read somewhere here the neutral switch pin 44 needs to be grounded....did that but still no go

Is it just me, or does Redline get really black really fast??? I only run it up to 4000kms for this reason

Actually i had the same idea but using a garden hose instead, but had not decieded where to position it on the block. I see you mount the kmon sensor by the fuel line bracket, do u suggest placing the hose around the same area or maybe closer to no.6 on one of the studs at the back of the plenum?....its in a rwd chassis so i have room to work with No need to apoligise btw, i know you have to be busy with the new projects i see rolling out never the less i really appreciate youre time and help and i will email you the stuff a little later when i get some time...busy as well Thanks a mil

Nah...I'm in one of the Caribbean islands and AFAIK its measured similar to yours and not by the US standard I would like to confirm that 100% but i dont know where to get that sort of info and if it would be reliable to start with.... Thats why i wanted to know the difference you guys see between 95 and 98 to get a comparison

Ha ha....i guess so...or even better as a matter of fact, > a "tuner" has my buddys car @ 37* on 16psi So i take it your 21* is on similar boost like what i run?

Isnt that with R34 N1 turbs and higher boost? The oem ecu has timing @ 24* also, so I have it around there but just alot richer than it would have been normally,....the stock ecu only gets to 11.0afr @ around 7k...well in my experience at least knk is around 15