Don Dada

Mine is around 5* retard on the limiter column and the column after....didnt really see the need to do it on the column before?? Anyway as i said, i have never been on the limiter so i really dont know how it will respond......i'll take your word for it

Retarding it at limiter just makes it a little less violent right? but the fact remains that its still goes on to off to on still which isnt good I have set my limiter at 8000 and have a audible alarm set at 7000 so i shift when i hear it beep...also the timing from 7600 up is very retarded so if it does get to the limiter its not as violent and as a matter o fact i dont think i ever did I rather swing to 10000 than hit the limiter

100 ftw!!! U'll set a new powa record for gtss

Is there a point where you can go too far?...as in to do damage? I see most ppl go a max of 4* either retard(ex) or adv(in)....is it just coincidence that all rb26 doesnt make gains after this or is it just a rule of thumb not to go more than this??

Checked out that whole toluene thing a while back and did not seem feasible so i ended up buying a coolingmist wmi kit which is still in the cupboard somewhere along with some greddy cam gears.... Was really waiting until the turbo upgrade to install both but i think i'll give it a shot soon as i feel comfortable with the "base" tune i have now so i can use that to compare to. I will be using water only first and see how that goes as a lot of ppl locally use it alone with decent results

Well time for a little update...... I have secured all sorts of loose shit under the center console/dash and under the car and tuned the timing around 24* which is what the oem ecu would normally run and i'm not hearing any vibration/rattle again and the values on the pfc is 10-12 max and very low on the safc2 as well and i have that set really sensitive So i believe that the noise wasnt actually detonation but i have taken out a few degrees here and there so the safc would not show any high values like i was seeing before.....so i guess now its dyno time to compare ign advance to torque gain to see where shes happy Man....talk about paranoid!!! every fu$king thing sounds like detonation! Any tricks to listen for knk on the dyno??? With your bare ear i mean.....i just dont have any other devices available to pick up knk

Not in Aus Not in US Just want to know if the distributor here is giving me BS as they claim they deal directly with Garrett

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/233752-rb26-into-s13-silvia/page__st__20

What duty are you seeing now? Maybe a fpr could get you the extra 10awkw??

Yup....solenoid doin its thing......normel

So if i buy a Garrett -5 ( GT2860R - 707160 - 5 ) What numbers will i see on the id tag? It seems like that number the op stated is the chra number?

Youre missin a number after the dash

What problems have you encountered so far with the wmi system....if any? I have a brand new kit tucked away........somewhere...hmmmm

GT2556R 702987-7according to Garretts site The ceramic wheel is made on to the shaft and in one piece right?

Any body know if this turbo and the 780371 - 1 (same unit but with actuator) is available from garrett now?? The supplier here say they are on back order ???

What are the other numbers on the tags of the two turbos? Have you tried putting some oil ?

I dont think that is the CHRA number because if so then the oem R32/R33, Nismo R32/R33 etc would have ball bearing cores too as they carry this same 5 digits at the beginning of the number.....and we all know for a fact they are journal I think the chra is the other number under this number on the tag...???

do the dots on the cam gears line up wit the marks on the backing plate and the first line on the balancer(orange i think) line up with its corresponding mark on the cover? Have you tried the cas in different positions one tooth at a time? Also as said in the last thread your cas is probably faked....try a next one

Waste of tiime imo... To me the gtr ecu is lean as is until very high up in the rev range so economy is probably as good as it gets with no direct control over timing, and timing is where its at if you want more response/torque.. Remember the afc affects fueling by altering the air flow signal and it changes timing indirectly....most times opposite of where you would want it to be so its a balancing act and gains if any would be minimal Its works ok for the 25det guys with minor mods trying to get rid of r&r but on the 26 its basically worthless With that said i have a safc2 on my 26 along side a pfc but its sole purpose is to act as a 2nd knock dectecting device...a feature the neo doesnt have So unless if you just want a pretty colourful screen on your dash ditch it and get a pfc

It actually gives a reading over 100%??? What ecu?

????.....no he wont The key is broken off on the cam so if its anything he would have to replace is the exh cam not the cas

Thats not the vct unit bro....its the cam angle sensor CAS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/232550-cam-key-for-cas-broken-urgent/page__p__4081411__hl__cas+key__fromsearch__1#entry4081411 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/356269-castimming-issue/page__p__5701524__hl__cas+key__fromsearch__1#entry5701524

What base pressure and afr bro? But yea 250awkw is poossible with stock 444cc inj, even a little more......I'm doin roughly that now with them at 88% duty with 11.0 afrs,,,,and i'm sure your tuner wouldnt go that rich Oooh ....an a walbro pump too....not in a gtr tho so i'm not sure about fitment

maybe you could try switching is manually to see how much difference it makes first??

Geeze.........metal ok......metal And yes different comp fin design as well between the two