Don Dada

Yea the 26 block has the holes that allow you to bolt a 20/25 sump pan on there but you have to fiddle with the pick up as it hits the baffles and a little to the front of the sump itself Use the 26 sump and get it modded http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/233752-rb26-into-s13-silvia/page__st__20

Wasnt there a consensus here that the exh manifold was good up to 300rwkw on a rb25 ???

Aww man.... hate to hear stories of turbos letting go on gtrs....unfortunately it may have took ur engine with it As mentioned a compression test will give you a good idea of whats going on

Hmmmm... Yea man the R33 gtr rear is between 26.5 - 27mm......That has been confirmed a few times around here in various threads The R32 is a little smaller and the R34 gtr is the smallest of the batch What size solid bar will equal to a 27mm hollow?

Water outlet towards the back under the plenum is larger on R33 Fuel rail has 2 mounting tabs toward the rear on R32 ....R33 has one to the front On the R32 harmonic balancer the two large seperators are the same thickness....the R33 one is a little thinner (front) If it has the turbos the O2 sensors are smaller on the R32 All of these thing can be interchanged so its not diffinite either way... Maybe post up the first 3 digits of the engine number maybe someone might be able to help you from that

^^^^ ??? Anyway thanks man So you agree the comp of the gtss / -9 is maxed around 330rwkw?

Ok thats good info that hks didnt make their kits in anything other than the .64 a/r Garrett shouldnt put it as a "direct replacement" and offer the .86 a/r as an option if it doesnt fit tho....and i found it strange that they didnt offer it for the -7 too Wheres disco to get into the nitty gritty?

Hmmmm According to Garrett there is an option for the larger turbine http://www.turbobyga...9R_707160_9.htm

Just throwing this up for discussion as i have never seen it mentioned with this particular turbo As it is results for the Garrett GT2859R - 707160 - 9 is very few and general consensus is that it is a more efficient turbo than the R34 N1s aka -7 but is not as good as the -5 for out right pwr AFAIK the -9 IS the Gtss minus the actuators..... Has anyone used or contemplated using the -9 with the larger .86 A/R turbine that garrett offers, up from the .64 A/R ? I'm assuming everyone who has used it so far has used the .64 a/r turbine, and did the gtss kits offered from hks had options for the turbine size? or did they just stick to the .64 a/r turbine as well? Anyway i guess the main concern here will be the increased lag from the bigger turbine but.....will it still be less lag than the -5s with the advantage of a little more pwr... maybe up to 350rwkw? Claims from -9 vary between 300-330rwkw but is the comp maxed at this output? If not maybe the larger turbine will make it do a little more without taking a full step up to the -5 Discuss.......

Yea i'm sure engine mods/displacement had alot to do with that plus i assume its 2530s with the upgraded hks actuators? I guess i use the same method as you as I have my start boost just a few psi lower than the target boost and gain all the way down to lessen the spike but the spike is very small and quick so it doesnt bother me to tell you the truth and boost creeps just a few points of a psi as rpm increases I'll experiment with that setting you mentioned above tho as i dont think i ever tried it that way and its been a while since i even touched that controller

Yea i browsed through the manual and didnt see anything I had my solenoid by the brake booster and used to get a little spike on gear changes so i relocated it to the passenger side by the strut tower and made all the lines as short as possible with equal lenghts to the actuators etc.etc. and did get a decrease in spike As baron said with the quick ramp into boost a small spike is almost inevitable but they hold boost pretty good otherwise One other thing i have to try is taking the pressure source from the twin turbo pipe but just hasnt gotten around to drilling and tapping it to take a nipple.....

did you check the manual?

Dont have time for that..... I just like my car and want it working up to scratch That statement is so funny you wouldnt believe... I realise you guys have a lot of dodgey tuners up there so imagine for a tiny island like mine.

S1 rb25det? Have u changed /serviced or cleaned the pins on the ignitor?

Not in Aus.... Dont have that here Dyno here dont have afr or boost plot either

Figured that much... Only when it actually picks up noise then it would output a voltage Another glitch in the manual i suppose as the R32 gtr manual doesn't mention using a circuit tester, just an oscilloscope I guess the sensors are working though because they are registering an increase in knk from off to on load So what do you guys recommend? tune for a max knk of 15 ish? I would really like to see a similar log of a stock 26 tuned on 98 I have a next set of sensors that i could swap but i really dont think that will make a difference

ok guys has anyone ever tested the voltage on the knock sensors? The R33 Gtr service manual says 0.4 - 2.0v with a circuit tester I am not getting any reading off mine????

Yea as i said i do everything my self as i like the challange and dont mind gettin dirty.... I dont really expect to get my problems fixed over the interweb i just like to get opinions from you guys who have much more experience than is available locally...... And i wouldnt point fingers if something fu@k up as i think i have enough knowlege to pick sense from non sense Any comments on the log???..... i have lots more and where is Trent btw i know he's generous when it comes to sharing piss/ basic info like this

Yea Anthony i get ya I rememer some years back when you wanted to start a thread on tuning pfcs for everyone to share their experiences but it was unsuccessful due to the same fact.... Well if its worth anything to you guys i'm not even in Aus so when i do get the hang of it you could feel comfortable that i wouldnt be taking any food from off ur plate. ha ha Sau has been the source of ALL my info and i've come really far in terms of maintaining/upgrading/tuning skylines and Rbs and i'm grateful for that especially when an experienced mechanic here can watch ur plugs and say you need a fpr because they dont look orange enough Or when one of the better tuners add 37* on full load on a set up like mine and says it be ok, its a safe tune....shit! that made me order my datalogit the next day!...... So guys i'm gonna get to the bottom of it and i cannot rely on getting any good info locally so any help is appriciated whether you feel you want to share it in public or by pm me

I thought that was the general rule to tuning but never the less i understand what youre saying but thats hard to do when it gets tuned on the road. With that said it makes a very noticeable increase in pwr from 19* to 30* Paul...as i said the safc2 picks up the knk so i would think it actually is hearing knk from the sensors, but remember it can be calibrated so its probably just more sensitive than the pfc ...thats why i didnt really go down the road of it being buggered sensors.....even though i'll run some diagnostics on them this wkend

To tell you the truth this is what giving me the shits right now...I'm runnin a retard map right now basically around 19* and sometimes i hear a vibration/rattle sometimes i dont. I wanted to pull more timing but im not sure how low i should go...wanted to try about 15-16* is that safe? I really am not sure if its a drive train/ somethin loose noise but it did lessen to an extent when decreasing from 30* to 19* probably because the car is making less power so less vibration/ stress etc. i really dont know ..... i even went under the car to chech for loose shields etc but every thing seems in tact the noise comes from around the shifter area But in any case shouldnt the knk sensors go crazy with a 30* advance?? Heres the log 4hiiiii.txt Dont know if i did that correct .ha ha

Measured the stock bar to dia of 17.8mm.....Dont know if thats the same as a gtst and i'm assuming it also solid

Yea man i know I havent check the service manual but is there any way to check the sensors ? There are no tuners here with knk sensing devices and they are really bogus in my book thats why i bought the pfc in the first place to have some sort of detection 95 is the best we have here too and i'm running 11.0 afr from 4k up

Hey guys i know some of you get high spikes of knk on the pfc and generally cosider it as noise or might be a badly tuned cell if it is persistant My problem is opposite....i am actually hearing knk and the pfc shows no major increase in value ie. say between 3-4000rpm at boost building time i can hear it rattle and values will show anywhere from 15-20, up from about 10 and under which seems to be "normal" values. From reading here, values up to 30 seems perfecty ok and i was going by that to tune my car but it seems like that cannot apply in my case Ive gone so far as to add up to 31* on full load and only saw a spike of 20 once or twice and to me it should be knking a shit load more with that kind of advance....and its not consistant either, some logs will show no increase at all. On the flip side i decreased timing to 19* on full load and didnt get any random spikes, but the overall values were the same My first thought was the sensors were fu#&d but i hooked up a safc2 i had lying around and what do u know it registered high knk between 3-4k when i could actually here it rattling and also approaching red line but i couldnt hear that one. So basically i just want to get an idea of what you guys think......It seems to me i have to keep it under 15 ish which doesnt give me much room to play with??? Anyway i have logs if any one is interested and i would also like to see a log of a similar set up just for reference Mods> Rb26 stock turbs,,pods & cai,, 3" exh. no cat,,13.5psi on 95oct timing set to 20* on cas

Wanted to know if it worth while upgrading to a stock 27mm R33 gtr rear sway bar on my C35 laurel which i assumes carries the same bar stock as the R33gtst....I'll measure it to confirm but its visually much smaller than the gtr one. I dont have access to whiteline or any other fancy brands so this is pretty much my only option so i just want to know what adv / disadv will i notice particularly if the car will still be predictable as its strictly for the road,... it also has a 1way mech. diff and 255rwkw, rwd obviously