Don Dada

^ ^ Correct.....Can be done but you have to get the S2 coli pack harness as well as the plugs on the coil itself is different. This in addition to bypassing the S1 ignitor as well which will require wiring mods

Yer....normal for r32/r33 gtr pfc http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/122076-mysterious-pfc-missfire-in-an-r32-gtr/

When did the problem start? When you changed to the pfc?

Cant see the vid here at work but is the car up to temp when checking the timing? Because the car has more grunt doesnt necessarily mean the cas is working better. It could mean you have advanced the timing some when putting in the new one, so you need a timing light to set it back to 15* Ignitor could be a possible cause also on the S1

How you guys find the BC Br coils holding out so far?

Never had any problems with ac idle up when switching between S1 and S2 ecu on the rb25

I say yes as back pressure will increase with the plumb back......How much of a difference??? I dont know

Splitfires should be able to handle that no worries, even with a 1.1mm gap in there. See if you can get another afm to try

The difference between your two afms does seem kind of far a part and 0.2-0.5v is definitely too low for crusing voltage.....should be around 1v. To tell you the truth I had the same problem with my pfc as well, where it would get lean if left sitting while hot. Thing is water temp never rose, only air temp by a few degrees, and as normal with any ecu, fuel is added with an increase in temp but the pfc showed exactly the opposite!.......I also had the O2 feedback off so that also ruled out a bad O2 sensor......so I just gave up after a while and let it do its own thing ,as i never had reason to have it parked stationary for so long where the afrs would have become dangerously lean anyway. Also I had no misfires or anything out of the ordinary otherwise....well except for that common dead spot that I described before and which nearly everyone else has experienced..... This was on stock inj and afms too btw.

You cannot always see a cold solder joint....might as well do it while its open, and seal it back well to avoid moisture getting in

Please elaborate on this....

Make sure the pins on the afm and the socket is clean and free from corrosion...used some electrical contact cleaner. I say to swap the no2 afm to the no1 position and monitor it for a few days or so to see it you still get the problem, and it you do check the sensor check screen to see which afm is playing up so you will know if its definitely the afm or the harness. And it is possible to have a dud nismo afm.....they are electronic like any other afm and can go caput! Might be lucky if its just a matter or re soldering it to fix if indeed it is the problem Tps voltages are good.....and get a new batt

Jimbnr32 what you are describing is sounds like a different issue. This thread is about an intermittent miss that occurs while driving along under low load where the car feels like it loses all power for a split second, and otherwise acts normal at idle, high loads etc. Not sure what your issue is tho as the battery voltage you described above seems normal.....Does the battery have enough juice to start the car easily first start in the morning?

Dotted line is boost. Main question is how it drives now compared to before? See if you can get it to hold that 20psi a little longer and it should feel even faster....may be even up it a next psi or two....dont waste that E85

Will do, and looking forward to your reply. Thanks again man

In addition to the above, has anyone got the kmon to log using fc datalogit? The manual didnt include the designation of the three wires ???

Just bought a Gtx35 and it had a restrictor built in the oil feed....the distributor still insisted that we put one inline as well

If they reference it to the R34 gtr it will work, as R34 gtr and S2 rb25det are the same

Well being originally manual takes lots of headache out of the equation as auto ecu "interacts" alot more with abs and attesa units and would have made it very difficult. Well....Its should be as simple as removing the 25 engine harness,separate the abs and what ever other body harness from it, and then replace with the 26 harness, and wire that in to the car via the white plug as shown above

Couple questions.... Was the Gt-four originally auto or manual? What model gtr is the 26 from,and are you going aftermarket ecu or stock? Also keen to know if you get the four wheel drive to function as normal.

Found the info. from Paul and its the other way around.....My bad,but as I said i just turn them off apexi's official answer; There is a difference in the o2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register) After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33. So off (+sign) is for r33 type sensors

You have two options... The one mentioned above which I prefer,but takes alot more time to tune the low load/crusing section of the map which results in better fuel consumption if done properly or... There is "O2 sensor reg." in the ETC. menu of the pfc which allows you to choose between r32 and r33 type O2 sensors. If I remember correctly, off(+ sign) is r32 type. The info is floating around here....somewhere

Trent, Have you used the kmon on rotors? Interested to know what freq to centre at,and will the type of port etc. make a difference?

Results anyone???

Thats about right....I was able to dial in about 6* and 2psi with wmi added to 95