Don Dada

It would rev thru r&r but it would just feel like the hand brake is up I saw as little as 2* and afrs in the low 10s when this happened I believe i have a vid.....i'll check for it later when i get home Either way it IS your ecu

If youre running manual i believe its just a matter of wiring it to suit 1- 12v ign 2- ground 3- 0-5v output to ecu Or just get a complete S1 throttle body and use that

Sounds like you're rich and retarded.......pretty normal for gtst owners

I had it run in front the cam gears between the rad, but that pipe was the outlet from the comp so it was going to be as hot as anyway and the other pipe was after the cooler up the passenger side to the intake which had a smaller run exposed to absorb engine bay heat

Yeh....but this lag also cause spiking so i guess its which ever one your most comfortable with

Yeh cool.... So like i said before with a 400 scale throughout leaves Ne20 at 8400rpm with limiter set at 8000rpm so 400rpm header

A stable

Ironically i wanted to tap a pressure source from the comp outlet on the 26 hence keeping the hose run short as possible to send to the boost controller >actuator to see if i could have elliminated some spike....never got around to it tho

But seriously.... I didnt know you had a reference to the plenum at the same time to see the difference Only if the sping it really soft i cant see it moving by 3psi....Have you tested the actuator to see what pressure it starts to move? I guess one way to find out.......DO EEET! Ps. Check ur intercooler to make sure it doesnt have an old sock or something in there

Shit! You should get that mercury out! That cant be good for valves and rings!

I think once you crack that throttle the slightest bit the entire system will be seeing the same pressure so i doubt it will make a difference....not familar with jzs tho

What will happen if you set Ne20 to 8000rpm and you rev past it for some reason? Will it use the same values as in Ne20 for any thing higher? Youre refering to the L jetro too right?

Like you read my mind I was going to ask the same question as i think most ppl just leave it as default and tune from there On the pfc it starts with Ne1 at 800 and goes up in 400 increments but when it reaches Ne13 it jumps 800 rpm to Ne14 ie. from 5600rpm to 6400rpm and then continues to go up in 400s again, jumps 800rpm again between Ne16 and Ne17 then 400s again to Ne20 which is 9200rpm. I mean for a stock 26 none of us will rev over 8000rpm any way so those two points where it jumps 800 could be scaled down to 400 and still put Ne20 to 8400rpm My concern also was if by doing this, will it affect any other settings that include rpm and will need to be changed also or will it affect just the inj and ign map?

Doesnt the 34 pfc need some sort of signal from nats in order to fire up the car? Isnt that why guys with those "special" R34s swap out their ecus for 32/33 pfc?

^^^ Coils have internal ignitor , CAS is wired different and most important NATS - nissan anti theft system which will only allow it to work on the R34

Youve got to be kidding me..... To start with i dont even know what youre talking about with that " two for the price of one" statement. My order was for one unit at a price of $205 AUD as stated in previous emails I also sent you an email specifically asking if you ship to an address other then the Credit card/Paypal address as i am not in Aus. and you said yes however registered post will be required I also explained to you that i will using my wifes paypal account and gave you the revalent infomation. The hard part is you didnt even have the descency to reply to let me know there was a problem and you could not work with the info provided for us to make other arrangements dispite several emails to you over the past week asking you if there was indeed a problem.........and yet still chose to relpy stating the issues on a public forum because i asked a simple question. So, should i not bother to purchace your product?

Hey guys anyone know whats going on with fc-hako? I've been trying to contact them via email for the past week to place an order but haven't gotten any response

Yea...i asked a similar question a while back and didnt get any definite ans.... I'll be using water/meth injection though and already have a wideband installed for tuning

Dont Gtts have nylon/plastic comp wheels?

Well if it never used to sound like that before that i would say its not normal..... It could be from a leaky exh gasket or the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold running loose or the turbo itself on its way out. Start scrapping and do some investigating...take off the intake pipe and check for excessive shaft play

Not only Ultimate...... 32 bit Ultimate

???

No Gt-ss equivalents are: GT2859R - 707160 - 9 No actuator GT2859R - 780371 - 1 Actuator included

How much boost?

"Give me your R34 GTR, you don't deserve it." Seriously... 550cc will be good enough for pump...if u have plans to go E85 u might need to go bigger Too much air with not enough fuel....as in your case