Don Dada

If u do some reading and watch some dyno sheets on here u can easily see a pattern and every single Mines/blitz/pfc tune i've seen out of Japlan supports this as well

Well the aussies general rule is to tune rbs to a full load afr of 12 and then tweak ign timing to suit for max power where as the japs throw in a shit load of fuel eg 10.5-10.0(keeping in mind that their pump is 100+) and then throw in a shit load of timing on top of that.. I know there must be "tuners" out there who may have experimented with both methods whether it be professionals or diy-ers but...... Which method is actually better??? There must be pros and cons to each?!? The way i see it is that the Japs method may be safer in that they dump a shit load of fuel as extra protection and then wind in extra timing to make power,the down side being a higher cost at the pump ..... I mean with their 100+ octane you would think that there is no reason to run that rich. But does this equate to the aussies method of leaning it out some(12.0) and not throwing in as much ign timing??? I have always had the impression that changes in ign timing is what really makes torque/power and afr was secondary...so therefore running a little richer will always be better in that u can throw in more timing hence making more safe power.... I know its kind of ironic starting this discussion here with no japs to defend themselves but still would like to hear different opinions.... Would have love to see dyno sheets of one of those big shot Jap tuning shops against Aus finest on the same vehicle

U can pass it through the hole where the cat sensor wire passes but you have to bend the sheet metal a little bit to get through that big ass connector it comes with.....slit the rubber grommet to get the wire through straighten back the metal and fit back the rubber in place You'll have to remove the passenger seat also to make it easier

Did you not get a manual with your wideband??? If you are going to leave it in permanently AEM recommends 36" from the exit of the turbo, as the closer you get to the turbo the sensor life is reduced due to heat, and never run it installed without power to it. Also u need to retain your oem narrow band sensor as you are still using the stock ecu along with the safc otherwise fuel economy will be terrible

Ha ha........Nice!!!!!

I did this swap a while back and everything will work back except for the following ie. assuming you are using the S1 loom You need to use the S1 throttle body and TPS You need to use the S1 AFM You need to use the S1 coil packs, ignitor and wiring loom Easy as.......

If you are ABSOLUTELY sure u are not going to do any more mods except raise the boost 1-2psi the safc will be the cheapest and best bet. U may just get a few extra max kw but the good part is that you can tune out R&R with it and make the mid range come to life I had an safc2 along with an adj fuel pressure reg and the exact same mods listed above on my 25 and the car felt so much better to drive without that hole in the mid range

I saw these metal "gaskets" used before on a gtr also but the holes were way smaller...just a few mm The car did have hks metal piping with atmo bovs and a tuned ecu tho.... not sure what holes that small will actually do......

Actually... i purposely went with 4.363 gears to compensate for the larger dia of the 19s to get it moving a little quicker from stand still considering it weighs about 1450kg I also tried 3.9 gearing on it and it was terrible....it felt like the hand brake was up when pulling off. Not sure what u meant by your comment but is there some thing i am not seeing????

Hmmmm???

Dude....not every one came out of the womb with a spanner in one hand, screw driver in the next and was programming ecus at the age of 2 so give me a break..... and trust me.... if it had someone who had a "clue" where i am from i would have carried my shit there a looooong time ago The one dynojet in my entire country only gives power/torque readout.....no reference against boost, afr etc. so u try to figure out where i am coming from I jut like to get experienced ppl opinions rather than the noobs we have here who interfere with your shit and then it blows up a week after

Thought i'd ask this here instead of starting a new thread...... I'm in the process of tuning my car and want to know what gear to load it up on the dyno to get the proper load Its a Rb26 with Rb25 box running 4.363 gears on 19' wheels

Does anyone know if the Greddy temp sensor would screw into the block where the original sensor is on the Rb26??? I've heard ppl comment on the weird type of thread it uses and i am not sure whats the size/pitch of the greddy sensor either

So how does it feel to drive compared to stock turbos? What actuators did you use and at what rpm you have 15 psi???

Just to make sure....If its burning oil what color will the plugs be?? Also going by the comp and leak down results is ok for me to rule out the bottom end as the problem or is it still possible for it to have good comp and oil getting past bad oil control rings and being burnt???

Plugs are almost "out the box" color with black down to the inside part of the ceramic (rich from stock ecu) and all of them are totally dry

Come on guys.... Everyone suggest compression and leak down test with these sort of probs...... So here are the results Now i need your opinions

Would of been nice if someone actually knows when the crank was changed for sure going by the engine number and not using the clutch type as a guide That should make those r32 guys a little more comfortable knowing what they have and how hard they can rev it

Yeh, that's the thing....... Nobody knows for sure if the crank was changed at the same time as the clutch type...... and even more doubt now with the post xklaba posted above

What year was this R32 gtr???

Am i correct to assume that ALL R32 gtr that come with a pull type gearbox also have the improved long nose R33 type crank???

EDIT.... My bad.... Its a pull type gearbox. and the engine number is 039xxxA

As it says guys i want to check an engine no. out of a R32 gtr to see if it a later model with the long snout crank. Its a push type gearbox I'm not sure but didn't the later ones with the push type gearbox also come with brembo too??? Anyone who can help me pls pm me.....i will give u the number Thanks

+1 ^^^^ If u cleaned the throttle bodies you can get this Don't know if the idle control valve these guys are referring to is the aac valve but there is also a air regulator under the plenum close up against the block.....this is used for cold starts. If it is shagged or unplugged you will get similar symptoms.....to reach it is a real bitch! .....good luck

Installed new pistons????? Dont know how much space you have but you could prob bolt off the strainer slide in the pan and see if squeeze your hand in to catch it back up Have u tried unbolting the mounts and jacking the engine up?