Don Dada

Whats the deal with the rsm though? Why is it needed?

Dude pls edit that.....paragraphs/spaces etc. No one will read it!

Can u give me more info??? As i said i'm not in aus. Thanks

You're still lucky man... u can get stuff used from other guys there! Right now i'm looking for a pfc for the 25 as well and my only options are from ebay aus which sucks because i'm on the other side of the globe.....Ive been hunting in the usa but with no luck There are not many options here at all and stuff that are available.........well i shouldn't say available, but could be ordered through authorized dealers here are exp like shit and they dont even tune them..... An eg is the vipec pnp which works out to about $4500 aus and thats without tuning! Ultimately i want the pfc because i will be doing the tune for myself and this looks like the easiest to tune by far plus i like the use of the hc to monitor but i'm really frustrated now and it looks like i might have to go in the direction of the emanage ultimate instead which looks confusing as hell for a novice like myself! Ive read Trent (Status) emu thread probably about 3 times now and from those who are using it seems to have issues to iron out still So are there any well known sau traders willing to hook me up with a 25 pfc..... It MUST be tested and in good working condition tho because i dont want to fork out for it and ship it to the Caribbean and then end up with probs...... Dont know if i can trust the ones i saw on ebay aus. with the "no warranty on electronics" thing! Any advice?

Hey guys didnt find any info sooo.... Does this Greddy oil block/ sensor adapter work on the rb? (First one on the list) http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?Ca...;SubCategory=27 Not sure if the threading is the same or if it would seal properly. Thanks.

Why would a manufacturer build a piston claiming it is for a particular engine and yet still modifications have to be done for it to work! Does cp have this problem also???

Since we are here.... Whats the real deal with the pfc for the rb25det (414AN012)???? Are they available from apexi new still because the jap site does not have it listed but yet it is still listed on the usa site http://www.apexi.co.jp/products/electronics/pdf/p_fc.pdf

I remember disco saying that out of all the turbos garrett make for hks the -9 has no modification by hks so therefore the -9 is exactly the same as the gtss minus the actuators. Hks however use their actuators on it, so the higher tension on the spring will cause boost to come on a little earlier and might not settle at the same level as the garrett actuators. U can also use your stock actuators on the -9 but again i haven't seen anyone who has tried it to see when and how boost comes in.....something i myself would love to see results for,with this being the determining factor of "which turbo is better" with the choice of actuator used.....something i think can be tweaked non the less using a good ebc

I would check the integrity of the motor first to make sure it hasn't inhaled and dust -9 (gtss) will give a little more than the -7 (R34 N1)

Yeh.... I got one of those small greddy copy catch can filled with copper scuff pad thingy with one 1/2" hose from the cam covers running to it then back to original spot on the rear turbo Is it possible that the 1/2" hose is too small?? The rest of the pcv system is stock. I dont think there excessive pressure in the sump tho....It does not blow out the dipstick and it isnt on that tight

Well guys???

Don't mind getting a second opinion at all but there is no one locally to do it that's why i had to buy my own equipment to do it! Its a cheap gauge from harbor freight in the states though, so i dont know how accurate it is......did each test about four times though to ensure a consistent result! The comp test seems more or less ok for a rb with some ks on it....just no. 5 is a little lower but yet doesn't show any improvement in leak down when it was done wet. Oil control rings was suggested as a probable cause but neither a comp test nor leak down would determine this right??? Test was done wot on a warm motor using redline 20w50

I started the engine when it was on the ground and did a comp test, no. 5 was a little lower that the rest...same as it is now, and then did a next test after about 5-6mths of running in the car and it was more or less the same....just 1-2psi difference I used a different gauge this time tho so i cant compare it to the last results, and it has been about another 6mths since the last test. Going from the difference between the wet and dry test on no. 6 it points to rings, but is that difference so bad??? ie. from 20% to 14%..... I would of thought there might have been a larger difference in leak down between wet and dry on no. 5 seeing that it had the lowest comp. The car still makes good power tho.

Intake piping is dry as..... Have no idea of the mileage....got it from the importers.

Hi guys i've done a compression and leak down test on my rb26 to see if i can determine why it burns about a qt of oil between changes (5000Kms) Ive somewhat ruled out valve seals because it doesnt smoke on start up even after sitting for some days, neither on deceleration, neither on idle. There is slight white/blue on hard accel but i cannot see it in from inside the car....i was told this by a friend driving behind. It fills the catch can with less than a table spoon of oil during the period also. Anyway here are the results... ...Compression________________Leak down ....DRY........WET____________DRY...........WET 1) 155.........200 __________1) 12%..........10% 2) 151.........200___________2) 8%...........7% 3) 160.........205___________3) 10%.........10% 4) 157.........200___________4) 11%.........11% 5) 145.........190___________5) 15%.........14% 6) 152.........198___________6) 20%.........14% Did not hear any air escaping through the intake,exhaust,through the coolant etc, only through the dip stick hole and the oil fill cover...about the same amount for all cylinders So what do u guys think Rings or turbos or....???

Yeah....nice way to know, but the less work to do the better for me! Its a R33 Rb26 btw

Hi guys I couldn't find anyone locally to do a leak down test for me so i went ahead and bought a tester to it myself. Couple things i want to verify tho.... I know the whole process of finding tdc using a piston stopper and whatever but.... Is there anyway of telling if the engine is on its compression stroke??? and if it is not, its just a matter of turning the crank 360* to get it there right??? Am i correct in saying that if it is on tdc on the exhaust stroke i should hear some leakage through the intake as well because the intake valve will be slightly opened already??? Also will there be any corresponding pistons that will also be at tdc on the comp stroke at the same time to make my life any easier?

They did make the "-9" included with actuators.....it is known as the 780371 -1 .... notice the same chra number. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_780371_1.htm I believe your stock act will work as well but i have no idea how they will respond compared to the garretts that come with the new turbo

That's a rather impressing result as i along with many others here would have thought the .63 would have been incapable of these sort of numbers without special fuel or water/meth injection based on "mafia's" results some time back. What makes it even more strange is that u would think the higher comp motor would be more prone to det with the small turbine but yet u pull it off with knk no more than 20 This shows us that the true Garrett .63 is capable of nice numbers and its a shame that we dont have more results with that turbine as it seems to be the trend now just to go for the larger .82

That peak u are seeing is the spike on gear changes and happens so fast its really nothing to worry about. I cut down my spiking by putting the solenoid closer to the turbos and keeping the run of the hoses to the actuators as short as possible but it still spikes within 1.5-2 psi.

Thats normal for a stock ecu to dump shit loads of fuel to protect the motor. If u turn down the boost it wouldn't be that bad.... but what the hell!!!...... its ok once its not hitting r&r I actually put on an adj reg on there to drop the fuel pressure along with an safc2 and it was much better As for it being rich at idle that would be your o2 sensor

bump

Ok... U should probably do it before tho and see how it reacts on the street just to be safe. Never the less still interested to see it.

Finally....... Nice figure man but......is your boost control issue sorted out now with the big can act??? How does she come into boost now? Do u have a boost plot against rpm?

I would use one of those amazingly annoying buzzers because u will still find yourself wanting to watch the light and it WILL be a distraction. I have one wired off my greddy temp gauge and it makes life so much easier.....one less gauge to watch Don't like the idea of cutting the engine, that could be catastrophic