Don Dada

Disco a little more on the 3037.....correct me if i am wrong. There are 3 versions of the Gt3037 ie. GT3037 = 70mm non port shrouded inlet / ext gated GT3037S = 100mm port shrouded inlet / ext gated GT3037Pro S =100mm port shrouded / int gated The "S" was given to signify the port shrouded comp inlet and the "Pro" was to signify internally gated. From what i have seen the GT3037Pro S was only available in 56trim and the option for 48/52/56 trims were only an option for the externally gated versions from HKS With that said that would mean the "bolt on" kits for the 25 from hks would be the EXACT specs as Garrett's 56 trim GT3076 the only difference being the a/r of the turbine.... .63/.82/1.06 for Garrett and .68/.87 for hks Too bad users here don't specify which spec turbine GT3037Pro S was used but i would more lean towards the smaller of the two and i have seen some verrry good results...... Too bad Garrett didn't fit something in between the .63 and the .82, with the latter still being a better option than the hks .87 for sure!

May be a stupid question but can you tell if your head and block had already been decked/shaved in the past and if so, by how much???

Doesn't comp surge occur when the turbo is making positive pressure in which case the stock bov will be closed anyway? For what its worth i had a greddy recirculating valve which was shut on idle on my 25 and had no probs with idle,stalling when stopping etc etc.

I'm all for the stock valve but what makes the aftermarket ones bad being sealed on idle???

I'm taking it the Stagea was auto trans right??? Maybe has something to do with the auto ecu u are using as the engine and trans computer are built in that one unit with the Neos I know in the R33 the auto ecu will run with the manual conversion done but not sure about the in the R34 Should try a manual ecu

No idea......Got it used from the importers.

I've recently installed a 1way lsd in my car and used some Redline 75w140 gear oil ie. the one that comes with the friction modifier already in it. I've also bought the redline friction modifier additive but i'm not sure if i really need it because the diff does make that ugly clunking noise but surprisingly not half as bad as most of nissans i have been in with mech lsds It can be a little unpredictable though because some times on a particular corner it would clunk and if i try to reproduce it again the next day it might be as quiet as...not sure if it needs some more running in tho as it has only been on the car for a week Also it seems to be a little nosier when hot. Ultimately i want no noise but i'm not sure if this is possible because i dont want to loosen up the diff too much.....so how do i know when i have added enough additive????

There is no such turbo according to Garrett site

Garrett GT2860R 707160 -7 = R34 N1 (14411-AA403) Garrett GT2860R 707160 -5 = HKS GT2350 Garrett GT2859R 707160 -9 = HKS GT-SS (Garrett without actuator) Garrett GT2859R 780371 -1 = HKS GT-SS (Garrett with actuator)

So i guess welding a pipe for the gate might cause it to crack all the same as welding it off the manifold??? I'd rather screw up a manifold than a turbine housing

No u dont......just the TB

Can anyone verify this???

Can you change mine to "Don Dada" thank u kindly

I assume the smoke is from oil that has leaked on your exhaust from your previous problems and is just being burnt off now causing the smoke....just make sure there are no leaks. After being parked soo long it would not be smart to give it a service before u drive.....and ive read that fuel starts to loose its properties after 7 days so definitely drain and refill with some fresh stuff What do u mean by a blown turbo? Did the exhaust wheel let go? If so u know what the possibilities are right?!?

U can change the studs and then use washers to get your clearance,measure it up and make your plate to suit.

Just want to confirm.... Are turbine housings made of cast iron as well???

+1 check the plate on the crank that is designed to hold the belt in place...will have to take off the balancer tho

OK if its only 5psi it shouldn't be "rich and retard" Stock ecu i presume? U can check all those u listed above and try and get some good fuel in it and reset the ecu

Check this out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...ty-t283705.html

What boost is it running? If u keep your foot down does it seem like it gets back power at about 6000rpm?

More info on the conversion Was it an entire swap?? Auto to manual?? What car? Just to make sure.... you are testing the plug going to the solenoid right? The nvcs activates at 1050rpm and deactivates at 4500rpm so give it a little rev to see if it activates.

Or.... i get it now

These adaptors you've used are custom designs??? All i have seen being sold have threaded holes for use with studs on both ends so a nut would not work to tighten it up to the manifold even if the threads were drilled out on one side to accommodate the existing studs on the manifold, especially the side with the port for the wg there is simply no room for a nut http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ad...Ma-t299964.html

WTF is a mechanician???

I'm not sure but isnt the turbine housing cast iron as well as the stock manifold which might crack if not welded properly??? If so why not just weld in a pipe off the manifold as close as possible to the flange instead of messing with the housing. A stock manifold is far cheaper and easier to get than a turbine housing!