Don Dada

I experimented with this on the stock ecu using a msd adjustable window switch which allows u to set what ever rpm u want it to switch on and off at and i must say the seat of the pants gain was verrrry minimal. The boost did seem to come in slightly earlier and ramp up a little quicker but i think similar gains could be made with a good tune in this area of the map and leaving the nvcs disconnected totally I have a dyno sheet somewhere around.....i'll see if i can find it.

Do not put one pin of the solenoid directly to the batt., connect it to a switched ign source. Not sure about if the rb25de harness already has a wire out for the nvcs, if it has one that means it will already be some where in the engine comp. if not it will just be blank so u need the pin out to verify. If its blank you can get a similar nissan harness and surgically remove a pin/wire from it and place it in your harness.

The R33 S2 and the Neo version coil packs have the same plug however the Neo coil pack has 2 mounting bolt holes and will not bolt on to the R33 coil pack rail as spacing is different. The S2 coil pack has 3 mounting bolt holes. So the Neo coil packs should work in the R33 if it comes with its rail.... providing the entire rail will bolt on to the R33 head.

The plug for the R34 ecu is totally different to the R33 S2 Gtst so sell it and get something else...not worth the hassle I believe the coil packs are the same though Injectors are top feed on the R34 and side feed for the R33

I'm no turbo expert but why the hell ppl go for the largest turbine Garrett has to offer if they dont intend on using the turbo to its absolute limit?!? The way i see it is that u choose the a/r of the turbine housing in relation to what average power u intend to make so say if the 1.06 puts the turbo in the 600hp range and u only want 550hp then go for the smaller back end with the advantage of improved response Which brings me to a question....The hp rating garrett state on their site, is this when using the largest 1.06 housing? So i guess it might be a question of if your mate wouldn't mind loosing some power if any at all to get improved response because i'm sure there will be noticeable difference between the 1.06 and the .82

I understand that part but when you're at wot and water is being injected and u snap the throttle closed u remain with some mist between where the nozzle is and the tb.... i know its not much but this little bit still gets sent back to the comp In another scenario say you set the injection to start at 5psi and you're running 20psi at wot and u ease off the throttle but not totally, u might still be above 5psi so the injection keeps going but ur bov did open a little to get rid of the extra pressure so there will be some sent back to the comp as well But hell....you've tried it and had no probs thus far and my wmi kit is still in my closet

Or if u want to be absolutely sure that u wont have any comp wheel damage u can install a nice shiny atmo bov and use the ecu to tune out the over fueling..... i know this can be done with the pfc , not sure about nistune though

The "J" pipe about 4" before the throttle body is the best place although someone did mention that the water gets back into the compressor when the bov operates and may cause some erosion of the wheel over time

Dont need a controller....just get a Rb20det actuator and run 10-12psi depending on what other mods were done ie. exhaust and intake By that time u'll be hitting R&R so u will need at least a safc2,and some time to read some more threads trying to understand wtf is R&R.....rich and retard

I'm getting some problems to find pads to use on the R33 brembo type caliper (not in Aus) and the only one i can find looks a little too thick to work The guys are telling me its for some Bmw cant remember exactly which model but it is more or less the same dimensions except for the thickness It measured 17.75mm thick ie including the back plate. Can anyone tell me if the pistons can be pushed back in so far for these pads to work Thanks

Yeh the shockproof line does not come with the friction modifier so it causes mech diffs to shudder and make noise Thats why i prefer the 80W140 or 75W140 as it has some additive already plus i can add more to suit my liking Redline make excellent products

Redline Lightweight shockproof.....magic in a bottle

Heard of some bad experiences with shockproof in mech diffs so i'll be using the 75W140 and the Redline friction modifier as well as i hate a overly noisy diff

Hey guys i have a 1.5way diff to install in my car but i'm not sure which body oil will work Redline states "If lsd use 80W140" for the Gtr which is has a mech rear diff but where i'm from only has 75W140 available. Can i use the 75W140 without any probs?? Are they that different? Thanks

Was wondering where you were??? Seems like ur only hanging around in the rb30 threads these days Can u comment a little more on the response of the .63 and if it felt like it was lacking up in the rev range I would have like to see what ur set up would have made without wmi even though i will be using it as our best here is 95.... i just dont want to depend on it too much if u know what i mean

Dude..... that's more responsive than my stock turboed rb26!!! 1bar of boost by 3600rpm...not bad at all for an internally gated .82 turbine. I'm sure the big can will be more responsive or even better yet an external gate Can't wait to see your final tune on a dyno sheet with boost against rpm Did ur mate's foot get weak after the first pull??? he never made it to full throttle for the other runs.....poor bastard must be was shittin himself! ha ha Excellent work!

Well... u can do a before and after big can run so u can justify your money spent

Too bad u dont have the big can act yet as i am more interested to see what rpm u reach full boost. I cant remember right now exactly who changed from the supplied act to the big can but they did see a difference as to where full boost was reached ie. a few hundred rpm earlier. Probably u can do those runs listed and include a dyno style run in 4th gear with the throttle stamped from about 2000rpm....this should give reference as to where boost starts to build,how fast it builds and where max boost is reached..... things might happen a little too fast in second to see whats really going on

Yeh too bad we don't have more results with the 3076 in its .63 Garrett form. Dale fz1 i remember u mentioned some time before that when u drove Mafia car the feeling was not a sudden on-off transition into boost. Obviously it would not give u that free flowing power out top end but i would say that your choice of the turbine a/r would depend on how much pwr u want to make in the first place. Maybe on the 314rwkw it would have felt like it was falling flat on top, but with say...280rwkw would u think it would have this same feeling??? If u look at Mafia's graphs the pwr does not drop off at the top of the rpm range either and i know the wmi has a part to play in this but it still shows us what the turbo is capable with its small .63 back end. I see alot of guys going with the .82 on rb30 builds and i can understand that for the added displacement, but i feel that if u only want up to 280-290rwkw the 3076 .63 is the way to go.....even better than the 3071 .82 which we see will be at its absolute limit on a stock rb25

Check this out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30...es-t167572.html

The 2 piece one ur referring to is this And this is the springy one right Are they interchangeable?

Dude.... i never heard of qfm till now!!! Where i'm from the only two 'decent' pads available are ebc and the mintex and i have used the mintex before with good results except for the dust!

Been using some Endless cc-R for everyday use (R33 Brembo) and it holds like a bitch but i am noticing some wear on the rotors. Is this pad too hard for the street therefore causing excessive rotor wear??? I'm thinking of switching to some Mintex

Not 100% sure but Vtec/freq type controllers cannot work for Nissan nvcs type on-off solenoids

Ever sorted out this issue bro??? I've heard they seize up after a while as well Any reoccurring probs with vband style flanges??? My concern is with the sealing.