Don Dada

No coil pack adapter needed.... just take a signal for the tach output from the ecu. Worked fine for me.

In this case if the buyer didn't get what was advertised as shown in the pic it is false advertisement

My thoughts exactly. False advertisement!!!

Did ur turbo come with the port shrouded comp (slots around the comp wheel) as shown in the link u posted???

Walbros are good....just up to what power level is the real question. Will u run your $100000 rb26, t51R, 1000cc blah blah with a 044 bosch???? I don't think so... Even the 044 will run out of flow at some point but that does not means it is shit. For 215rwkw the 255lph walbro is sufficient..... I mean if its standing up to 85psi base pressure and still flowing enough for it not lean out at 215rwkw that has to count for something!!! How long will it last???? Thats another question

Siht! 85psi base pressure! Is there any vac lines going to the reg or does it even have a nipple for one??? U guys don't really like Walbro do u? Again, i think a lot of ppl use the wrong model.... cant remember the one recommended for turbo apps right now. Have had mine for almost 3yrs now and its currently running my 26 at 40psi base and afrs going to 10s up in the rev range(stock ecu)

Ha ha.... thats what i meant This .73 a/r is from using the OP6 back end?

Gt3071 is basically the same as the hks spec Gt2835 so going by the id no. it seems to be right. The rear however will be cropped to fit the Nissan style flange and its highly unlikely it would be a .82 The comp housing it supposed to be .50 a/r as well for the Gt3071, the Gt3076 however comes with the .60 a/r comp That power looks good for 14psi tho....20psi should get u up to 270ish

It's been a while since i dug up in the 25 but isnt the oil pressure sender and the oil light unit that big round gold colored two pin thing by the oil filter?!? If so if it has been damaged somehow when changing out the housing that will probably explain why the two readings went wacko at once.

Little update here guys... Normally i overfill it to almost the hump on the dip stick and after monitoring it for a while noticed that it only 'disappears' until it reaches exactly on the H line and doesn't seem to go any lower from there. So i guess it was just the 'overfill' being burnt off. The bad news though is it suffers from surge when it is on the H mark and guess what.... its in a rwd chassis!!! Gtr sumps are truly shit!!! I can't believe Nissan even released the Gtr from factory with this problem ! Anyway i'll keep monitoring it while trying not to pull too much G's and see how it goes but i should be good to go

U should also make sure it is from a R33 as it would be newer and most likely have less k's on it and more importantly no problems with the oil pump drive

Yup.... Thats why Nissan put it there in the first place.

Part nos will be nice as i am not in Aus.

Waiting patiently to see your results.... too bad couldn't see the results of that said turbo on a stock head. Is this Gt3076r 52 trim available thru Garrett now or was it some thing Gcg put together for u? Pics?

Going from a .63 to a .82a/r housing made my GT30R slightly lazier up to 3000rpm, the rest of the rev range it seems much of a muchness. Were these both Garrett internal gate housings? How were the off-on boost transition between the two housings? Was it wheel spin city with the .63 or was it controllable?

The 3076 will make the same power and is capable of more overall power with less boost than the 3071. Don't see why everyone is going off on boost levels though as the thread starter seems to be focused on response, so more importantly i think the size of the ass end comes into focus. As Lithium said u can use the 3076 if u want a little more down the road, but the question i would also love to know the answer for is which one will come into full boost, and be more responsive at the SAME power level?.... a 3071 .82 or the 3076 .63 in original Garrett form

I used that same Msd unit when i couldnt get the Nvcs to activate when i changed from auto to manual..... Worked good, no issues although i think the gain was verrry minimal when playing with different settings on the road. Boost did seem to come on slightly earlier and a little faster but as i said there was very little difference almost undetectable between on and off.... Bear in mind i was using the stock ecu, but i think the benefits of the nvcs can be compensated for or over ridden with a good tune of ign timing down in that area

Rb26 in C35 chassis 85* normal and 90*-92* givin it some stick on a hot day

Reset the ecu

You're far still bro..... I'm at the end of the chain Trinidad

Yeh alot of ppl seem to have done this with good results I guess its a matter of getting it weld right to avoid cracking. What would be better though... welding the flange directly on the manifold like in the pic i posted earlier or welding in a short piece of pipe with the flange on the end? I guess the only advantage of welding a piece of pipe allows me to place the gate where i want it? Also what size gate is recommended for this set up......Rb25, Gt3076 / .63, stock manifolds, 280rwkw which should be around 16-18psi-ish I was originally going to use a 38mm but in the dyno thread saw some ppl using up to 44mm with this turbo.

When u say mounted "along" the manifold what exactly do u mean???

I believe if the hose has a long run for example inside the car and back the hose diameter will have an effect

Sweet figure there Trent as 280rwkw is what i was aiming for See i'm from the Caribbean and its hot as shit right through so i want to keep under bonnet temps down as much as possible therefore not looking at those ss high/low mount manifolds....... not to mention our 95 fuel makes things so much better. My friend has one of those high mounts installed and has constant problems with coil packs. This system also "kills two birds with one stone" as it provides a spot to mount the wastegate and a spacer to clear the compressor Foolboost pic shows a 44mm wastegate right? Wouldnt that be too big for my application?

U can find all those wires easily in the main harness for the radio and the park light signal from the light that goes around the cig lighter. Not sure about the orange wire though although u can join it with the yellow and put it on a switched source which does not cut when starting. U will need a multimeter or a test light to verify...... other wise go to the professionals!!!