Don Dada

Yeh thought so. I use a lot of stainless bolts and nuts in work and for every 10 that u do up real tight, at least 2 needs to be hack sawed out when removing So i guess the extreme temp changes would not make that any better.

Hi guys. Is it a wise idea to replace the exhaust manifold studs using stainless steel items??? I'm getting the oem studs but don't want to have to go back in there in the future if they break again, so i rather put the stainless although they cost like 5 times the price. Thanks

s2 are newer

To my understanding it was probably just the whole combo with the Gt3071 compressor wheel, trim, .63 turbine and rb25 manifold that caused the issues with boost control that "bhdave" and "33" was experiencing despite fighting with ebc,dump pipes and actuators. "The Mafia" used the Gt3076 .63 with minor problems which i think could have been sorted with a stronger actuator, so clearly even being the same size wheel and ar turbine, it will react totally different depending on what compressor it is bolted to. I think the Gt3076 .82 will be a little too lazy for me and capable of power i am not aiming for.

Nice result but i will not be using any cams just an adj ex cam gear May be it was because of the cams u got full boost so early??? Just concerned about boost control with the small back end (.63) on the Gt3076, but i feel it might make the 260-280rwkw a little more "safe" than running the Gt3071 .82 to it's limit...or close to anyway. Response.... response.......response...... Oooooh.... found "skylinecouple" Dyno sheet ...... 18-19psi by 3800rpm Gt3071 .82 ......nice I just f#@kin hate dyno sheets with kph and not rpm!!!

Mazdan 626 16 flat on street tyres

Wow... Is that on the stock manifold? Cams? Stock bottom end

Nah, i'm gettin rid of the 26...... most likely Parts are too hard to come by, and the price i could sell it for i would be able to get turbo/injectors/pfc/exhaust work etc. done for the 25det i already have taking up space in my garage. The million dollar question though is will the 25 be more responsive and powerful than the stock 26 with one of the two above turbo choices...ie. Garrett Gt3071 .82 or Gt3076 .63

Wwoooowwww..... Finally finished reading all those "Rb25 turbo upgrade" threads again!!! So for the 260-280rwkw region i see the GT3071 is capable with an average of 20psi and the GT3076 with an average of 18psi I am however leaning towards the genuine Gt3071 .82 as i have seen "skylinecouple" have good results with it although he might be the only one who tried this combo!??? On that note "skylinecouple" did you ever sort out the dump pipe issues, and do u have a dyno chart with boost against rpm??? I am very impressed also with the results of the GT2835pro S but alot of guys are not stating what size the turbine is, so its hard to make a conclusion. "The Mafia" had some good results too with the GT3076 .63 but i think 300kw might be a little too much for me BUT..... if this set up is more responsive than "skylinecouple" GT3071 .82 i don't mind going in this direction either. The GT3071 .63 is totally out of the question because even with the Garrett .63 housing i see there are issues with boost control. So.... at the end of the day, is there anyone who have driven or seen any cars with these set ups peform??? I'm intrested mainly on response, and would really like to know the real world differences between the Gt3076 .63 and the Gt3071 .82 Garrett on a basically stock Rb25det. Also is there anyone else who have tried this original Garrett Gt3071 .82 combo??? Pls share your experiences. Dyno sheets appriciated Ooooh... and it MUST be more responsive than a stock Rb26dett with 14psi, which by the way i think sucks..... 14psi by 3800rpm in 4th

5quarts

yep

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap. Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Actually i do recall hearing this some where before.....can't put my finger on it though Anyone with a daily driven 26????

Just wanted to know if it's common to have to top up oil between changes on rbs particularly on the 26 due to the twin set up

I am definitely not a mechanic but all rbs i've changed timing belts on before had all timing marks lined up spot on and the bal on 0* at TDC ..... i mean Nissan would not have but those marks there if they didnt intend on you to use it would they????

Well guys some new info on this..... I fabricated and used the piston stop as grigor suggested and i must say it worked a treat!.... so much so that i realized that my balancer has NOT rotated and the orange 0* mark lines up at TDC mark on the backing plate when the engine is in fact at TDC. So now if i use the orange 0* mark on the balancer to get the engine to TDC none of the marks, ie. crank neither cams line up with their respective marks on the backing plate.... they are all just a tad too much clockwise. I don't' have pics of the crank, but the reason why i say it would be a tad too much clockwise is because when all three dots line up perfectly including the three white marks on the belt and when i slide on the bal it reads about 4-5* advance , so obviously when i now turn the bal to get it back to the 0* mark all three gears would have rotated clockwise some. Have a look at these pics with the balancer set to 0* Notice the mark on the backing plate is just off the tooth of the gear and not dead center Intake Exhaust TDC I even took it to a mechanic and he was puzzled as well to see when he lined up all three marks and put the bal back on it read 4-5* advance..... so i know i'm not crazy!!!

I was checkin this out a while ago and there are a few other things that need to be done. Here's the R34 gtr manual Pat attention to pin 8, 104, 106, 54, 56, 41, 42, 51, 52. note there is only one pin(41) for the 1* signal on the R34 ECU.... pin 51 is blank http://www.scribd.com/doc/5030134/Nissan-R...nual-Supplement

The cam cover gaskets do leak a little.... but definitely not a quart over the 4000km period.

any tell tale signs?? Wet plug maybe? The lifters are noisy too.

Hi guys I've noticed my Rb26 (R33) slowly looses oil over a period of time. I've done two oil changes so far since i've had the engine and had to top up about 3/4 to 1 quart over the 4000km i run the oil for. The first time i used Redline 20w50 and thought it was just probably the oil so i tried Schaeffer 20w50 but same result. There are no oil leaks anywhere and when i opened the catch can after the two the oil changes there was only just enough oil just to cover the bottom(greddy)..... just a few drops really. Compression reads: 172 / 175 / 173 / 170 / 156 / 160. There is no smoke on start up, and my friend who was driving behind me says there is only some black smoke for a few seconds when i floor it.... no blue smoke. It is running really rich because it has a little soot on the back and pops every now and again when a let go.... stock ecu running 12psi Other wise car pulls really good Where does my oil go???

Got any lights on the instrument panel when u turned the IGN on??? U can also check for horn, headlights etc. ....if not ur batt is dead.

The crank is lined up EXACTLY with the mark on the oil pump... i used a mirror to make sure it lined up properly.... even turned the engine a million and one times to get all three white marks on the belt to line up too!!! I posted the pics of the balancer also.... what do u think of its condition???

What do u mean by this? Are u saying when the engine is on TDC the balancer does not necessarily have to be on the 0* mark????

I ended up cleaning mine using carb spray applied to a cloth and wiping everywhere beside where the throttle plate sits when it is closed.... no probs, idles @ 950 according to Apexi.

It's a 3.5" no cat off a R32 GTR i got from the importers and need to fit in in my C35 Laurel chassis so it just needs lengthening a little The flange that connects it to the front pipe also got damaged when they used a blow torch to get off the bolts.