Don Dada

I agree. The -9 and the GT-SS is the same turbo.... well at least has the same specs. Disco, wasn't it u that said after 6 yrs the turbos produced specifically for HKS can be sold normally as Garrett items, by Garrett... or something like that?!?

That info is spot on but...... Has anyone actually ordered a GT2859R 707160 -9 from Garrett and received it with actuators? Like i said previously the GT2859R 780371 -1 is the exact turbo, but with an actuator. I am not a turbo expert by any means, but what i would like to know is will that difference of 0.7mm on the Exd of the comp wheel, and a difference of 56T as compared to 55T will make such a big difference between the R34 N1 and the GT-SS turbos, and if so what will be the likely effects in terms of spool up time and peak power? And i guess instead of upgrading stockies to N1s it will be better just to get the GT-SS (-9 or -1) ??? http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm ooops!

Ok guys just double checking something here. Garrett GT2860R 707160 -7 = R34 N1 (14411-AA403) Garrett GT2860R 707160 -5 = HKS GT2350 (Almost equivalent to garrett) Garrett GT2859R 707160 -9 = HKS GT-SS (Garrett without actuator) Garrett GT2859R 780371 -1 = HKS GT-SS (Garrett with actuator) I see alot of guys referring to the -9 units, but according to Garrett, these do not include actuators. The last in the list above is essentially the GT-SS which comes with an actuator. I know over time there has been changes in the numbers when it comes to turbo identity, so probably what we used to refer to as the -9 should now be the -1 ??? as Garrett no longer has a GT2560R -9 listed, but the GT2859R -1 Also there has been debates between using the -7 (R34 N1) and the old -9 / new -1 (GT-SS) but the only difference in specs is the 55 comp trim on the R34 N1 and the 56 trim on the GT-SS. Is this such a big deal??? I guess two of them will more or less spool the same with the -1 (GT-SS) having a little more on top? All the above model nos. were taken from Garrett's web site TODAY. Thanks.

Most likely i will be using a garrett item as there is an authorized dealer here, and i don't see many HKS / Greddy units unless it comes used through importers, which is verrry rear as the japs tend to keep this sort of gear. To tell u the truth, i was bit disappointed when replaced the 25 with the 26 in terms of lag and response. The 25 using the 20 actuator had instant full boost(11psi) from as low as 2500rpm which made the car fun to drive,considering it has the weight of a bus! With the target power of 280rwkw, i don't want to breaking traction too much though, because when her big a$$ starts sliding it kinda hard to bring back....yet ,response is the aim of the game Hasn't garrett brought out the GT3076r (GT30R) with a 52 trim comp yet?

T67???? Is that a garrett item?

Actually aiming for 280kw, but if i get 260kw,i'll live with that. Unfortunately, no one to rebuild stock items with steel wheels here. Still doing some reading up on the turbo chioces for the 25 When i had the 25 in, i read almost all the threads concerning these said turbos.........I guess i'll have to read them again.

Ok guys..... Be patient ok Those ceramic fu@#ers has me reallllly bummy on the 26 , so i was weighing out the cost of changing them to a set of steels (garrett equivalent to gt-ss) or slapping on some extra gear to the perfectly good 25det i have sitting in my garage, and put it back in. One of the main factors too is that 26 parts here(not in Aus) are verry hard to get,and when u do find them,they are extremely exp. The 25 on the other hand has parts readily available. If i sell the 26, the cost of getting turbo/injectors/ecu for the 25 will be about the same with some left over to do the ex, lines for the turbo,piping etc. Where as if i sell the 25, that would only cover half the cost of getting the steels for the 26 alone. I will be adding a water/meth inj. kit no matter which set up i use, as our best brew is 95. So here are the specifics: Rb26dett--- Stock ecu / GT-SS equivalent / Water meth / Apexi pods / Cam gears / 3" Ex./ stock internals Rb25det---- Pfc / GT30R -.63 / 555 inj / Water meth / Blitz pod / Cam gears / 3" Ex. / stock internals / stock ex. manifold Now the important part..... I am aiming for a very responsive streeter as it is my daily driver, up to roughly 260-280rwkw. Out of the two above combinations which will be the most responsive, and an overall better performer? Thanks again.

From the Vipec manual there are 4 dip switches to change the cas signal because the r34 is reversed compared to the r33. The only other issue they mention is feeding the ac relay from a switched ign source due to backfeed.

I normally use Redline in my car, but was impressed when i saw a demonstration with SCHAEFFER oil. Not to mention its more expensive than Redline as well! Can u oil gurus check this out?!? I dont know shit about oil when it comes to the details. Thanks.

Ok I got the pinout for the R34 Gtr and the major differences i can see are: The IGN switch signal needs to be relocated The crank 1* and 120* signals are interchanged The FPCM 1 & 2 are interchanged There is no throttle valve SW power pin on the r34 There is no throttle valve SW(idle contact) on the r34- IMMU instead on this pin. Other than that some earths are moved, there is no CLK(synchronized signal),there is an additional pin for an aux fan and thats it. It doesn't seem such a bis deal to modify, my major concerns are the type of cas signal and the IMMU (immobilizer) shit. I know Trent (URAS) was checking this out a while ago as well..... Pls comment. Thanks.

Can anyone confirm if the R34 GTR pfc can work on the R33 GTR. I always thought the harness plug was different.... but thats probably just for the NEO versions(20/25) This is a pic of a of a pfc with the corresponding serial no. - BNR34L ***-**** From what i've read there is some difference with the cas, but can the original r33 cas be rewired to work??? and what else needs to be done? Thanks.

Lucky bastards!!! I'm sure not everyone has 98 to run on their skylines.!!! Help pls.

Well i've made up my mind on getting the water/meth kit....the problem now is WHICH ONE?!? I still need ur guys experience as to wether using a progressive kit that uses boost pressure or a kit that uses a 0-5v signal via the MAF. I'm checking out the Coolingmist kit that uses either boost or a 0-5V signal, or a combination of both. I guess with this kit i have the option of sticking to which ever method works best, but this kit is hell expensive! Thanks again guys.

There is a proceedure to set up knock, if this is not done it will not function. It is in the manual which i believe u can get on Apexi site. The afm signal not being connected will not affect your knock reading. The AF% is a reference of how much air passing thru the afm not your air fuel ratio.... u need a wide band for that.

come on guys.... i really need your opinion.

Well i'm interested to know what experience you guys have had using water/meth injection in terms of brand of kit,problems encountered and overall performance. In my country our highest grade is 95 and the weather is constantly hot (30-35*) so i cant enjoy the true potential the 26 has to offer. I had a safc2 lying around so just out of curiosity i hooked it up using ONLY the knock feature to see what was going on. It didn't surprise me at all to see i was getting knock,and very high levels too- around 185. I know the safc2 is not the best when it comes to knock detection, but it works... When i had it on my 25det, with no correction, i could hammer the life out of it and get no high readings, but when i started to take out fuel and the ign advanced i was able to see high spikes an sometimes even hear detonation. Anyway back to the problem at hand... I have since retarded the timing via the cas to 15* and on 12psi at around 3500-4000rpm when boost comes on full, and also close to redline, knock reading spikes, on a hot day. (stock ecu/turbos) The thought of using toluene crossed my mind but it is not economical in the long run, so my best and only option really is water/meth injection. I have also thought about using a pfc, but in essence, i would have to actually de-tune the car to get rid of high knock levels using the 95 shit so it does not make sense. I have seen "the mafia" had good results using water/meth injection, but haven't seen him around in a while, so can others pls share your experiences preferably using it on the 26 My plan is to get it in order so i can safely run 14psi and return my timing to 20* or even a little more via the cas, to get some extra power using the water/meth injection. I'm looking at the AEM kit (pn 30-3000) . What do u guys think? Thanks.

Probably . Did the whole calibration set up thing both times though. But i still would'nt take the chance, especially if tuning.....

Did a dyno run once with a stock 26 with the innovative LM1 sensor stuck in the tail pipe... 3" exhaust no cat. We actually had to stop the run because ratios were like 13-14 on full load. Then got a bung welded in about 3ft from the turbos and guess what..... ratios were in the vicinity of 11-10.5 on full load. So i guess it does make a difference.

All three pics were taken as is. Meaning........When the balancer it on 0* as shown, the cams are a little advanced, as shown

yeh ... i always use the back of the tooth for the line up.

Ok guys this is what my cam marks look like when the balancer is on 0* I tried to get it the best angle i could have, but if u notice both the intake and exhaust cam are slightly advanced to where the mark on the backing plate lines up with just about the edge of the tooth. So in that case the dot on the crank cog will also be advanced some too As i said before when all three dots are lined up and i put on the balancer, it is on the second mark ie. 5* Your thoughts pls. Thanks