Don Dada

Just checked, the first line on my balancer is orange. And both the R32 & R33 GTR manual has the first mark as 0*

Well i dug up the R32 GTR manual and the first mark on the balancer is 0* also, so no luck there either! As i said the keyway is normal, but i noticed in the manual it states "Crankshaft key must be facing up" Does this mean directly up as in 12 o'clock? Cause mine faces probably about 11 o'clock with everything lined up. Anyway, i am baffled as to why it is not lining up to the 0* mark, but not too concerned as i know the crank and cams are lined up to spec. So what do i do, take the second mark (5*) as 0* and adjust my timing from there???

As said above^^^ Try some carb spray instead and see if the idle changes. If it does its sucking air in, and u will be able to find the spot a little easier.

Any thing is possible with those Japs..... Can some one with a R32 manual confirm this.

Yeh.... the mechanic was just as confused as me because the keyway had no wear or deformities and the damper looked ok as well, just had some small cracks in a few places but looked well intact still

update Well i took out the balancer today to check the timing, and what do ya know, it was spot on, all three marks lined up. The good part is now i know the "overtightened timing belt" sound i was distinctly hearing from the ex cover around piston 2 was actually because the timing belt was overtightened!! What can i say....It's funny how sound travels in engines i guess . I have slackened the belt which has eased it up some, but there is still a faint sound, but i guess i'll have to live with that till i go back in there to put on my adj. gears. So now a new question! Like i said before, when the cams line up the balancer reads about 5*. So when i set my timing (20*) using a light ,does it mean i now have to set it to the 6th mark oh the balancer which originally would have been 25* but in my case would be 20* ?!? I have it set to the 5th mark right now, which in my case should be 15* and the car gives me a slight ign rattle when pulling off with the ac on. Should i advance it to the next mark to get the 20* or leave it as is? Our best fuel here is 95. I run stock ecu, 12psi when the weather is 'hot' and 14 psi when 'cool' Thanks again

This is on the 26 right? If so, did u try it any other way before and was getting spike? Where exactly did u take the pressure source from? Any pics?

up to the top

Cas is not overtightened, even changed it to make sure that wasnt the problem. Going by wall on Saturday to get the timing sorted out

I know these have specific markings on the to tell their location, but can i swap it with another one to hear if the noise "moves" to the one that i swap it with? Or maybe use one from a 25det as i have a spare head? Not sure if they are the same tho. Just trying to figure out how to diagnose the problem. Thanks.

excuse my ignorance but.... Do u mean the cam brackets???

"Why are you checking the cam timing? Are you looking for a problem or just trying to create one?" Yes i actually do have a problem! This is an engine i got from an importer and installed in a C35 laurel chassis. The engine at idle is a little lumpy even though i cleaned aac / throttle bodies etc, plus when given a quick rev it gives a "noisy tappets kinda sound as it falls back to idle and then is normal again at idle. The other noise that had me concerned and made me start investigating is an "over tightened timing belt" kinda groan coming from the exhaust rocker cover in line with the no. 2 piston. This noise is very audible and can be pinpointed to this one spot using the ole screw driver method, and only happens when the car is up to temp. So i guess this may be the reason my idle is lumpy?!? And can some one pls tell me what this groaning noise might be ???? it really has me bummy!

So what is the procedure to correct it? I'm not too skilled in this area Isn't it a matter of lining up the cam gears with their marks on the backing plate, take the balancer off and turn the crank until the crank gear lines up with its mark on the oil pump an put the belt back on??? Thanks

I remember reading some where u too also had some spiking on gear changes?!? Curve looks sweet, but that is from low rpm in 4th i assume? If i do the same on the street i do not get any spike.... only on high rpm gear changes other wise it's smooth to redline.

It's definitely on the second mark from the left ie. 5* when the cam gears line up. I even turned the engine a couple of times and it always come back to the same position when the cam gears line up. So is the timing off 5* ?????

Quote from the manual... "When boost spike occurs,lower the GAIN adjustment 2 increments at a time until it stabilizes." and "Adjusting the START BOOST too close to the SET boost pressure,it will cause boost spike" So yes i can read AND follow instructions Don't know which part in the manual u saw to raise gain 2 points at a time to get rid of spike

Yup i'm doing exactly that.

This seems strange because when i changed the belt on my rb25 i lined up all three marks ie. the 2 cams and the balancer before doing anything else. When i took off the balancer and the backing plate the dot on the crank gear was already lined up with its mark on the oil pump, so i just fitted the new belt and bolted back up everything and all three lines were spot on.... no need to turn anything. So going from this i thought it should be possible to line up all thee marks again, and as they don't line up, i assume my timing is off.

So i guess my timing is off 5* then because when the cam gaears line up with their marks, the balancer is on its second mark ?!?

Yeh i know about lining up the the dot on the crank gear with the corresponding mark on the oil pump, but i just wanted to know if it was possible to make sure my timing was ok without taking out the balancer to see. Just thought the first line on the balancer was suppose to line up with the mark also. R33 Rb26

Like i said in my first post, gain is set to its LOWEST. and even with the set gain(start gain) set at 0 psi also, it still spikes.

Correct me if i'm wrong but when u line up the two dots on the cam gears to the corresponding lines on the backing plate by turning the engine,isnt the first line on the balancer 0* suppose to correspond with the line on that cover?

When i change the gear and stamp the throttle open, it goes up over the preset boost value for a second, and then drops back to where it supposed to be.

Do u guys with other other brands of EBC (HKS,Blitz,Apexi etc.) experience this same problem? It holds boost fairly constant, it's just the spiking on gear changes i'd like to iron out.

on low boost set at 12ish psi it would spike to about 13-13.5 psi on gear changes on high boost set at 14ish psi it would spike to about 15-15.5 psi on gear changes Boost does not fall off With no % increase, wouldn't this be the same as if the controller was off? If so it runs 8-9psi with verrry little spiking