Don Dada

Hey guys. Recently installed a ProfecB spec2 on the 26 and no matter how i tune it i cant get rid of the spiking. I took the pressure source from the original nipple at the back of the plenum, to the solenoid mounted by the brake booster, and then to the solid line that goes around the back of the engine to the actuators. This was the shortest possible run i could of gotten. The source for the unit is taken from the nipple that goes to the oem boost gauge. If seen a few ppl still get spike using the same said controller on the 26. My question is..... Has anyone tried taking a pressure source from the pipe that comes directly off the turbos and mounting the solenoid on the turbo side of the engine thus keeping the run of the hoses as short as possible?!? My settings are: LO boost- 12 psi Gain- 5% (lowest) Start Gain -8 psi Warning - 14 psi Limiter - 15% HI boost- 14 psi Gain -5% (lowest) Start Gain - 9 psi Warning - 15psi Limiter - 15% Stock turbos, 3" no cat exhaust. As u can see the gain is on the lowest setting, and even though i turn down the "Start boost" setting it still spikes, so i dont think there is anything i can do again in terms of tuning the controller. Thanks.

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after wiring up everything and doing the initial set up, start,warm up and try each sensor. Leave it on the one u get the higher reading. Personally i would put it on 4/5/6 as these are more prone to detonation

i second that!!!!!

Just curious Any damage to the engine when the turbos let go, and that would be stock turbos right ??? And at what boost?

hmmmmm

well its definitely not the injectors. When listening i could hear the injectors operating on idle, and when revved quickly, on decel u could here when they cut out 4 a split second and then come back on, but that is not the noise i am talking about It comes from the cam covers for sure. Like i said "noisy tappets" kinda noise Just sounds strange as the 25 never did it

I guess when u rev that's when they start to make noise because there isn't any noise on idle.?!? And in that case if i hold the throttle open at a constant rpm, i'm supposed to hear this noise continuously then?!?

I'll take a video, but i'm not sure it would pick up the "over tightened timing belt" sound. And that's the problem!..... where i'm from, someone with "a bit more knowledge" is hard to find!

Actuator????? The car makes and holds boost fine.

I've noticed two strange noises coming from the 26 so i just wanted to know what are your thoughts. The first happens when i give it a quick rev to about 2000rpm as soon as i let go an it starts to drop off u hear like noisy tappets sort of noise from the head (clack clack clack very quickly) and it stops even before it reaches back to idle. Its the kind of noise you'd get from using thin oil but i'm using Redline 20w50, with absolutely no strange noises on cold starts or idling otherwise. Oil pressure is good also - 88psi cold and 24psi hot at idle. It just doesn't seem normal. The second happens only when the car warms up. It's the kind of noise u get when u over tighten a timing belt, but i'm not sure if its coming from the timing belt area. It sounds like its coming from the exhaust valve cover around the no.2 area, so i took it off and everything looked ok.... ie. no scratch marks on the cam lobes and everything looked lubed up. Not sure if my mind is playing games on me but its hard to pin point this one. Is there any thing that can be bad, or going bad to make this sort of groaning noise? As i said....only happens when the car is warmed up. When i bought the engine from the importers it already had the water pump and timing belt changed, i dont know if the tensioner and idler pullies were changed and i don't know the milage on the engine (R33) Thanks.

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funny enough i went up 1psi as well after changing mine and resetting the ecu... on a 26 though

From what i have gathered you dont have to be boosting hard thus creating massive heat and spinning the turbos at 1000000rpm for them to let go. I guess with age, the more shaft play u get, if the exh wheel only scrapes or bites the housing this would be enough to send it flying out the back!?! That's why it's more common with the r32?!?

yeh....... future references. What garrett turbos would fit on nice there using the stock ecu for about 350rwhp and quick response???

ok Just wanted to know how to tell if the turbos on a gtr is good by just starting the car and free revving it without driving the car I noticed too that it is possible to get up to about 10psi boost by just free revving the 26 to about 5000-6000rpm

some new pics

Just curious guys..... What are the symptoms in terms of idling/power/afr when a wheel on the rb26 gives out providing that it does NOT suck back any ceramic dust into the engine. How do u know when ur wheel is gone?

^^^^ what he said. Gave me rock solid 11psi. as early as 2500rpm

Anyone???

Well changed th o2 sensor today using a rb25det sensor, it was a direct plug in for the rear sensor on r33 rb26 just the wire on the sensor is shorter so i had to reroute the harness...no biggie though. Anyway my ratios now look as they should- Idle at 14.7-15.3 an when i hold it at 2000rpm it cycles between 14.7- 15.7 So i guess i would be looking forward to some improved fuel economy Thanks for all the help guys

Yea already have that info. thanks anyways. I also noticed from the manual the front o2 sensor suppose to cycle between 0-1v and the rear in P or N range 0v and other than P or N range 4-5v So i guess i should be looking for a voltage fluctuation between 4-5v ????

Well r33 gtr PS pumps are like gold, so i would like to know what other alternatives are there? URAS mentioned some where that rb25 pumps can work on the 26 but i've tried it with no luck, the pulleys just don't line up. Does anyone know what modification needs to be done to the 25 pump/pulley/bracket for it to work on the r33 rb26???

I use the AEM uego wideband which i think has the output but i'm using the stock ecu. I only hooked up the pfc to read the O2 voltages (borrowed from a friend). One other thing i noticed was when i gave it a quick rev to 2000rpm the air flow voltages will go up to about the same amount but AF2 will drop off before AF1, and will go to about 0.2v and then climb back to meet AF2 at about 0.9v where two of them remain steady. The two air flows are clean and i am using the stock air box at the moment. Could some one else give me their opinion on the O2(2) sensor remaining constant? And which one the pfc takes as the O2(2) sensor the front or the back? Thanks again.

Thats the problem. It stays rich with it on or off, it does not make a difference. As far as i can tell o2(1) is ok I would just like to know if o2(2) is supposed to cycle as well or remain constant. Thanks.