Don Dada

I know its an old thread but....... I'm in the process of fitting a Rb26 in a C35 Laurel, an would like to know if this "L" section in the crank case is absolutely necessary to clear the original sway bar??? I assume that S13/S14/S15/C33/C34/C35 run the same suspension set up in the front in terms of the sway bars and power steering rack?!? I'm prepping the engine so when i'm ready it will be just a matter of taking out the 25 and putting in the 26 rather than having to trial fit the 26 and take it back out again to seal up the sump, so and feed back will be greatly appreciated. I've seen the Japs use welsh plugs or water jackets as we call them to seal the axle holes, what do u guys think of this method?

Geeze.... just askin Never seen anyone here use a SAFC2 on a Rb26 and i sure was'nt going to be the first!...... So 14psi good?

anyone?

I use Redline oils engine/gearbox/diff so i should be good to go. Don"t think i'll be experimenting too much with this one tho....just 14psi and drive On that note what do u think about using a SAFC2 to "tune" it a little at the 14psi??? since i already have it.

If u know the price we pay 4 a Rb26 on this side of globe u would worry too! Its the same gauge i used 4 all 6 cylinders so i would expect some kind of consistency. The engine was started outside of a car "on the ground" using a battery from a working vehicle and i actually thought it was getting tired too, so replaced it with another batt from another vehicle to test 5 & 6 and got the same results. Yes had the throttle open.

Started a rb26 (R33) today "on the ground" from Japan.... Engine sounded good,revved out good, oil pressure was about 65psi when now started and went to 95psi or so when revved. Also was able to see about 10-11psi boost when revved hard,Is this too high for a stand still rev? My main concern tho is after running the engine for about 5 mins i did a compression test with results as follows: 1--- 175 2--- 174 3--- 176 4--- 171 5--- 160 6--- 161 Now the R33 manual said the standard value is 170 psi and minimum vale was 128 psi with a variance between cylinders of 14psi Are cylinders 1 2 3 too high? thus givin me a variance of 16psi across 3 & 5? Probably with some running it will work in a little? Don't know how long the engine was parked up for. Also did a test on a running R33 RB26 (25 000km) as follows: 1--- 162 2--- 165 3--- 170 4--- 166 5--- 170 6--- 162 This looks a little more normal to me What do u guys think about the first set of results?!? Thanks.

As the topic says.... Just wanted to know if all RB's are the same. Thanks.

any one else can confirm? And i guess the 077 will be a later engine than the 053?

Can u guys tell me what yr. these engines were manufactured??? RB26 053xxxA RB26 077xxxA Thanks.

anyone?!?

Well the brembos are fitted and i must say there is a noticeable difference in breakin power.... I dont have to press the pedal as much as before and the car comes down considerably faster,it is also very easy to get the tyres screeching now when braking from warp speed Some things ive noticed tho..... there are spots all over the surface of the rotors when the brakes are used moderately,other wise when given a hard time it has a bluish burnt hue Are these spots normal??? When the pads are heated up they make a kind of growling noise when the brakes are used hard,is this normal with the CCR pad? I think this it the most dusty pad i have ever used on any vehicle it stinks up my chrome in one drive!!! No squeel tho

Did some checkin and it seems that the front did not come with shims only the back. This was taken from the R33 workshop manual Excuse the pics.... just snapped them off the screen

Will let u know my opinion as soon as they are fitted and run for a couple of days

Does the brembo come with shims originally? Maybe i can modify the ones from the sumitomo caliper to work? I hate squeel The bleeding part i was referring to the two nipples on the caliper itself.... Any particular one first?

Fastest response ever Is there any sequence when bleeding? Front first--back first--Two at the same time etc. etc. etc. Oooh.... and shims, are there any???

Hi guys Got some R33 brembo today an just need some clarification mounting them.. . It does not have any L or R markings on them so how do i mount them? Does the bleeding nipples point up therefore placing the smaller piston to the top? Or does the nipples point down therefore placing the smaller piston below? Also i noticed there are no shims between the pads and pistons, does brembos have any? Can anybody identify this pad? (YK14BP) Thanks in advance

Definitely looks like just surface cracks just in the middle of the contact area... not radiating to the outer edge of the disc. Checked the pads and there are some small chunks missing in the middle of the pad also The half past 2 make is a water stain Scoring some R33 gtr brembo so i just have to fit them up an see if they clear my rims...if not i'll have to go with standard GTR 4000 DBAs and caliper extenders. Thanks.

The safc2 will not lose its settings when the batt is disconnected. However when the ecu is reset by removing the battery it does "learn" a different setting with the changed air flow voltage it gets from the safc. I've experimented with this in my car so let me explain a litle more.... When u install the safc once u've raised boost etc. and the ecu goes into rich &retard mode and u tune the safc, the ecu learns this tune in its "protection" mode or what ever u want to call it. When u now reset the ecu with this same setting on the safc ,the ecu no longer goes into "protection" mode because u have leaned out or decreased the voltage the ecu sees, so what now happens is the ecu now tends to advance the timing a little too much and afrs tend to go a little more lean as well so u start to got knock. So what i normally do is get a basic tune to get rid of r&r as much as possible, reset the ecu and then fine tune the safc again to get the best results. Now this refers to the rb25det, and as far as i know the rb20det does not have r&r protection... so i was merely using this as an example to show that it is possible for the ecu to learn a different setting with the changed airflow voltage from the safc when it is reset. Is this the first time since the safc was tuned that u have taken off the batt pole? U could probably try resetting it again. Or put a wideband on it and see whats going on...... Rb ecus are weird

Any idea how much wider?? Probably i can use a spacer to compensate

Probably only persons who have done conversions might be able to comment? I mean..... how many skyline owners drive around with no exhaust

hey guys i'm getting some R33 brembo to buy but i would like to know from the guys who did this conversion on their R33 gtst, are the calipers the same width?? The reason i ask is right now my rims(19") are about 2-3mm away from the caliper,so i just wanted to know if the brembo had the same offset and if they would work? Thanks.

Just thought i'd throw this in..... When i originally put the 25det (tranny) in my C35 it had only the stock dump and front pipe. I drove it 2 days like this and then fitted a 3" exhaust from the stock dump with a resonator and barrel, no cat. With nothing else being done, it pulled considerably better in the midrange with the exhaust fitted, as before it was just feeling flat. Alot of ppl here mentioned turbos don't like restriction .....so how come after fitting an exhaust with a resonator my car felt better?!?

Not sure the rotors are within spec but only had them skimmed once the same time i had them slotted. Yes stone guards are still in place and strangely the outer pad is slightly more worn than the inner,and it is both the inner and outer surfaces of the rotor has the same cracks. I have only a 15 min high way drive to work so i warm up the pads the best i can probably within the first 5 or so,but cool down time may be about 2 mins. only if i was hard on the brakes.... and hard meaning probably just one hard stop from "about" 160kms Trust me.... a C35 is not the easiest thing to stop Was planning on getting some slotted DBA 4000 GTR rotors and caliper extenders, as DBA is the ONLY rotor available here(Caribbean) but after what u guys went thru i'm having some serious second thoughts!!!

Thanks but.....NO thanks I'm not doubting....i just wanted to know the benifits of fitting a 3" bell mouth dump ALONE!?!

most probably u have the red wire connected to a constant supply and not a switched supply(IGN) Review the manual properly every thing is there. Also BEFORE starting u need to set : Sens. type- Hotwire Sens. No. - 04IN 04OUT :providing u r using stock RB25DET air flow sensor. Sens. Cal - 01IN 01OUT. Car Sel. - 6cyl Thr arrow in 2 o'clock position. Also u should initialize the unit before making these settings because it would have its settings including fuel correction stored from the vehicle it was in previously.