Don Dada

So far 9 out of 10 people say fitting a dump pipe will give gains BUT.... i noticed that along with changing the dump,most ppl also changed the cat,front pipe or the complete exhaust at the same time. I already have a 3" cat-less exhaust from the stock dump pipe back.What kind of gains will i experience if i go with a bell mouth dump? Also all these dump pipes u guys are referring to are 3" right?

so u guys sayin that they WILL eventually crack? I've heard stories about R33 GTR rotors shattering, is this something i have to be aware of? I know pads has alot to do with rotor life, are the mintex pads responsible for this?.... probably i need to use a less harsh pad? Thanks again.

Very informative read! The thing is i don't think my rotors are warped. I don't get any pulsing on the pedal or shimming on the steering wheel when i apply the brakes. Anyone?!?

My rotors have been like this for a while now inside and outside These are OEM that were slotted and i use Mintex pads strictly street driving with occasional hard breaking. Anyone rotors doing the same? and could this be because of the pads? Ooh... this is in a 1450kg C35 laurel with 19" chromes and R33 brakes all around. Any feed back would be appreciated.

like i said previously 9 out of 10 dyno sheets here uses speed instead of rpm, so it's difficult for me to read them accurately.... And yes i know the top end is rich. My question: Is it ok to to have it so lean at full boost until about 5500rpm where afrs then come to 12:1 ???

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Don't have the AFRs mapped on the dyno sheet but here are some basic pinouts of the AFRs 4th gear: RPM AFR 3000 13.8 3500 13.2 4000 12.6 4500 12.4 5000 12.3 5500 12.0 6000 11.4 6500 11.3 7000 11.0 7500 10.8 8000 10.7 The engine is an R33 RB26 stock except: Boost - 12psi 3" exhaust no cat Blitz pod filters 310 RWHP Are the AFRs down low too lean? The car makes full boost by about 3500rpm so ideally,shouldn't the AFRs be 12:1 at this point??? I noticed most dyno sheets here uses speed instead of rpm on the horizontal so it's kinda hard for me to interpret them. Where in the rpm range on full load do tuners aim to get afrs @ 12:1 ??? Thanks again guys.

Anyone else knows?

Quick quest. for u. Can i use electric fuel pressure gauge to measure oil pressure and vice versa? After all it's "pressure" of two similar substances right?! The reason i ask is bc i want an electric gauge to replace my mech oil pressure gauge,an i need it in Autometer Carbon Fiber full sweep style to match my other gauges, but i am only gettin this style in a fuel pressure type gauge. Will it work? Thanks.

I'm from Trinidad and Tobago West Indies, that quote was from the local Vipec dealer here.

u guys are sooo fu@kin lucky!!! I got a quote from the dealer in my country for the plug in for the R33gtst converted back to AUD = $4500..... an that's without tuning. What r u guys paying?

i want to upgrade my rotors but retain my stock calipers but cant seem to find any kits except one from GLOBAL which includes the 'dog bone' brackets and the JZA80 324mm rotor. Awhile back Sydneykid used some Unique Autosports dog bones with DBA 5000 rotors on the R33gtst and got it to work (still waitin on pics btw) But hav u guys tried anything else since??? If so, can u fill me in on how it works an is there any probs associated with it. The issue is i'm not in Aus. so i'm looking 4 something that can be shipped reliably and not at a rediculious price to the West Indies. There is also a DBA dealer in my country but....... Geeze..... i'm afraid to even ask them IF they can ship in some 4000's for me and even worse the price it would cost!! But if it comes to that i guess i'll hav to see if i can get the rotors from them, and source the extenders maybe from Aus. or Jap. I know u guys must have done some upgrades. Any info will be appriciated.

Nah bro.....not even in Aus. Still a nice ride tho! I love big cars

my ride

thanks for the info

So i guess with wheel size being constant here i can use the dyno to "see" which diff accelerates quicker and also the top speed it produces.

i Dont think the water wetter is such a good idea in an rb. It does not stop rusting of the block and eats away the water jackets over time...... Cost me a whole Fuc&in engine!!!

Hi guys an gals Was havin a conversation with a friend today and a question was raised which had me thinkin. Do different ratio rear diffs give different max hp reading and also a different curve on the dyno? Eg. a 3.9 vs a 4.3 I,ve been experimenting with some mech diffs latley an wanted to know if i can use the dyno to "see" which diff accelerates faster. Is this possible? Thanks in advance

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What's up guys??? Ive had a few stock ecu's in my car--auto/manual/skyline/laurel all rb25det. One thing i noticed (some worse than others) is that on throttle changes, more so when cruising and then sink to about say 80% throttle,there is a sec delay where the car seems to go flat and then pulls away normal. I can see the afr's go lean on the wideband when this happens an then back to normal. My mods include rb20 actuator @ 10-11psi. Is this because of the boost increase or is this normal for all 25det ecu's? I've never tried it with stock boost ie. rb25 actuator. Thanks!

was just thinkin if the Djetro does both map and maf I could hav run it on the maf for now and when i upgrade and the maf run out of resolution i could just switch over to map. ????

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does the djetro pfc support maf also? or its it map based alone?

just checked the manual Coolant water temp @ 20*C approx 2.5 k ohms Coolant water temp @ 80*C approx 0.3 k ohms Disconnect harness and measure