Don Dada

What two black wires are you referring to? There is only one trigger wire per coil. Try using the loop down to the back of the engine, and if you still get a high reading turn around the pick up of the timing light other way around in the loop. If you are using the trigger wire for no. 1 at the coil, again turn around the pick up of the timing light the other way around if its reading too high. If all fails, get a ignition lead and put it from coil pack 1 to plug and put the pick up around that.

Definately get an ebc before the final tune as they do need tuning and the dyno is the best place as you will see any changes on the graph, and of course tune the map to suit these changes

Checked mine and the outer end of the act sits just before the middle of the pin giving a measurement of hole center on the act to center of the pin about 7mm. So basically with 9psi acts with less preload, we have about the same response......EBC time!! And these turbos were proven time and time again, and as a matter of fact seen some really shitty response times for -7s as well on paper too, so its just a matter to tweaking to get them up to scratch so dont worry

There is no problem....The dot by these items just shows that they are activated, as mentioned above,just turn the steering and you would see a dot appear by STR. Only when a sensor is bad/ out of range the back ground of the value will be highlighted as can be seen with BOST, and this is because you have the boost control kit on.Go to etc. menu and select the character that has a + sign in it to turn it off. The WRN indicates the engine check light is on, again because of the boost kit.

Basically same mods except I havent installed my cam gears yet and run std R33 dumps, but I run a profecb2 and it does help a bit keeping the gates shut until target boost is reached. My intention is to wind in some more preload and use the gears to bring it down further as I believe 16psi @ 4k is definitely possible, but that will be a while still due to some technical difficulties I'll check this wkend to see how much preload I have on them now.

Forget bleed valve all together and get a good ebc. Your results sound pretty similar to mine ie. 13psi by 4k,and I have yet to figure out how they rate acts, but I dont think you have 15/16 psi acts, probably the same 9 psi units like mine. Anyway wind some more preload in there......

What turbo and what boost? Thats a mighty small gap!

Dont think its actually the coils..For reference my splitfires had enough juice to run a gtx30 @20psi with wmi and 1.1mm gap Sounds like an electrical gremlin....As said before check coil pack loom, ignitor if you have one, also make sure all earthing on the engine and batt terminals are clean and tight and again CAS What plugs you running?

Youve added a shit load of stuff to the equation now....should have sorted it before the upgrade, but still check CAS and make sure the blue plug on the ecu is in evenly, pressing in the ends and not over tightening the 10mm bolt, And I assume u changed the afm to Z32? When you say backfire, on accel or decel?

^^^ I heard black pepper will seal any leaks in the gasket....and whats eggs without black pepper anyway!?

What happens is as boost increases the air intake through the AFM increases, and this in turn outputs a higher voltage to the ecu and tells it which part of the fuel/ignition maps to use. So it doesnt actually know what boost youre running, it just moves to the part of the map that matches the afm voltage and rpm In other words the tuner will have to tune that one map at all three boost levels, and as you put it, the ecu will auto-compensate for it depending on the voltage it is seeing from the afm

Rb20 act, And start saving for a ecu one time too....

Are those hks acts you referring to? I would sure like to know how they determine their max figure cause they rate them 0.8-1.1kg/cm2 (11-15.6psi) but we know they can wind up more than that.... I don't think you'd get say a 10psi act to preload up to 18psi? The travel will be significantly reduced and thus cause creep/over boosting?

Yea had some decent gains in response with adjusting actuators but I had 9psi acts I think, and was able to get it to what even seemed like better than stock response. And as my logs have shown these turbs are capable of 18psi at 4k so tweaking pre-load and ebc should definitely get them there or very close, and even better with cam gears Be careful adjusting tho as you would be playing around in critical part of the map where boost comes in and it might knk Now noticed you have adj cam gears, do you know what the setting are?

Trent, where do you measure that 10mm from? Hole center on the act arm to stud center on the wg flap?

^^^ Nah... would not have been that version as the turbine outlet has a different 5 bolt pattern and would not have bolted up

First thing first......are you sure they are indeed -9s? Also did you test the acts before using a compressed air source to make sure they are opening at the same time and at what psi? And as suggested before you can remove the feed to the acts and take it up to about 4k in 3rd or 4th with some one watching the boost gauge to see how much it makes......when i did this on mine, it showed that they were definitely capable of 18-20psi at around 4k What are you using for boost control?

A bov does not control boost levels so it would be the same as it was before Thing is AFAIK those are not adjustable to you just have to live with the flutter or put back on the oem valve

Edit>>> Not sure which model you have but you can check here. http://www.tialsport.com/techincal.htm

Are you using a single spring in the gate? I suggest upping low boost to 1bar using a combination of two springs, as tial recommends two springs for this size turbo....This should definitely bring on boost earlier At what rpm was the 285kw made?....I hate speed based graphs

Well that takes care of the load that would have been placed on the inj circuit, but using this to drive a pwm solenoid means that the pump will have to be constantly on using a 12v source?

Dont think this is a good idea at all as you would be adding load to that driver circuit, thus changing the impedance the ecu is seeing which can not only damage the ecu but also cause that inj to flow different from the rest

Is this stud hollow?

Those have to be some ole ass turbs if they have gtss stamped on them cause I have never seen one! As said before, the only thing hks about them is the painted logo on the actuator, and as many who have had bonafide hks gtss kits have confirmed, the id tag has the same numbers as the "normal" garrett ie. 707160-9 And for a little more info....the comp cover has a new design as of lately

Who said anything about a rb20 ecu??? I would think if he's converting to a rb25det the smart thing to do would be to use a rb25det ecu, which will freak out even with increased pressure on a std turbo