Don Dada

Well only one way to find out Do a search u'll get the resistances that the sensor should be when its hot and cold so u can measure yours with a multimeter and compare

does the car start easily when its cold? It's not a matter of gettin enough fuel its getting TOO MUCH fuel. water temp sensor can cause this.

how much boost?

experienced similar prob on an sr20 turned out to be water temp sensor

base timing is set to 15* via the cas Dont want to go any leaner as 95 is the best we have here

Afr's are approx 11:6 and ign timing @ 20* Anything more than 20* and i start to get knk on the safc2 If i pull out a few deg say -3* this now means everywhere in the band will now be decreased by 3* right? My tuning pts are as follows: RPM IGN AFR 2400 15* 12.4 2800 14* 12.3 3200 20* 12.1 3600 26* 12.0 4000 24* 12.0 4400 16* 12.0 4800 15* 12.0 5200 17* 11.9 5600 17* 11.8 6000 20* 11.6 6400 20* 11.1 6800 20* 11.0 Are these timing values acceptable and how does it compare to a pfc tuned 25 with similar mods? The ride pulls sweet but has not been dynoed yet. No knk unless i hit that fu@ked up cut or the limiter!!!

Garrett Sh!t I kill myself

I wish!!!

anyone? safc2 and q45 afm combo?

But that will retard straight thru the band making the midrange fell flat again.

I get it 4th sometimes too when it's colder an when it happens it registers high level of knk on the safc -- 150+ which has me bummin out!!! So is it possible to get around this with the q45 afm and safc2 combo?

rich & retard Do a search an some reading Plenty of info!!!

OK guys here's my problem I tuned my SAFC2 got rid of R&R but still maxing out my afm voltage and getting a cut at about 6200rpm in 5th. I can't lean it out anymore on top because the ignition is becoming too advanced so my question is can i use the Q45 afm(already got one) and tune this in not allowing ign timing to go too advanced and not allowing it to reach the 5.1V to get this cut? (cuts out for just a sec and then comes back again) RB25DET Stock turbo 11psi Spitfire coils Safc2 CAI 3"exh

did u try fitting the complete 25det S1 rail onto the head or just the individual coils?

S1 rb25det 120 000km Type of failure - low compression in NO.1 Factors influencing failure - Rotten water jacket- pin hole leak, drove with very little water for 2days. State of tune - 11psi Safc2 tuned 240hp Service - 5000km Oil - Schaeffer

does it whizzzz on idle too? U can hear a change in the sound when the ac kicks in an it idles up a little,it gets louder.

One of my friends recently bought a r33 s2 and from the moment i sat in the car i noticed the spooling sound of the turbo was different to what i was used to hearing in my car(s1 engine) I thought maybe his turb was on the way out so we checked it out --- no shaft play what so ever,no missing pieces of comp wheels,no sign of the comp wheel rubbing against the housing an is was an original s2 turbo with the black nylon wheel. On idle there is i slight whizzzzzzing sound an if reved slightly to about 0 on the vac gauge it gets considerably louder an after that it rises with the revs a litte into boost an then sounds "normal". Also when the car is switched off you can hear it distinctly whizzzzzzzzin down. The car makes boost as normal (8psi) an holds it straight thru the revs So for all u guys out there who has had experience with both s1 & s2 engines Is there a difference in sound of these two turbos IE. nylon wheel VS steel wheel or is this s2 turbo singing it's last song?

oh.... R33 gtst

As above I know the s1 is J60 and is green.

so i guess its a 33 engine with 34 turbos But y is the engine silver? It looks like it is the original colour. Could it be a 34 engine? Nismo/ vspec etc?

Went hunting today an found two RB26. Yes, not one ...... Two!!! Trust me thats verrry scarce where i"m from. Anyway one is totally stock R33 black top and the other is a silver top no writing on the cover also R33 (thats what they said anyway) The main difference i saw however is on the black cover, the turbos (compressor) had " GARRETT M24 .42 a/r " On the silver cover the turbos had "GARRETT M24 .53 a/r " The silver one doesnt look it was painted and it has a sump conversion to RWD Any one knows what this engine is?

No thanks. From what i see stock 25 rods with some ARP bolts will do me fine Still need some convincing to use 26 rods. Anyone with more broken rods? Only 2 so far!!!

At what power / rpm ?

dont have a choice really. I guess on the plus side the reduced comp ratio will compensate for the 95 sh*t we have here! Oh not to mention the 32* weather all day everyday!

Ill be using 20thou CP pistons , ACL bearings an OEM head gasket, since OEM parts(except the seal kit) are not available - AN even so if they were it would not have been much difference in price