Don Dada

Standard turbo.....your "standard ecu" will thank you for it

^^^And what badge will that be??

Looks good so far. Put a 1bar spring in the gate, it will bring it on faster and give your controller less work to do Oh...and next time get rpm on the sheet pls

Yea....Power seems about right for the .63 rear end on a std mani, I got a little more out of one but that was running 95 and wmi (see turbo upgrade dyno thread P42) so 300rwkw is definately doable with wmi and 98. These comps have a lot left in them but the.63 chokes them badly. As for the noise, cant say ...this one has a screamer

Stock head&block Greddy copy intake mani Chinee SS exh mani 44mm tial WG Deatschwerks 550cc inj splitfires Profec B2 3" exh OS giken twin Pfc Gtx 3076 .63 95 ron Coolingmist Water/meth 50/50 Low boost 14 creeping to 16 > 323rwhp High boost 18 creeping to 20 > 378rwhp

Is this a .63 a/r turbine?.... Power is a little low.

Maybe the set up is just maxed for the given boost setting. Without power and boost figures i'm afraid no one will be able to give any worthwhile advice What a/r turbine btw? Std exh mani? External gate?

youre gonna get raped!.....mafia style.....

Doesnt the pfc cater for this when you re-scale the inj table? OP....Is the inj correction/latency table set up, and proper afm selected?

302awkw @ 19psi....Not bad at all. Got a dyno sheet?

Exactly......

You have to use back the s1 loom,coil packs/harness, afm and complete throttle body with tps....easy peasy Makes the swap quick as you dont have to change out looms and can save some more money by just buying basically a bare head and block Never had any probs with ac speed control.

Dont know why I was thinking it was the whole board that was swapped out Anyway as you said, just might have to source a plain jane ecu

Have you tried back the oem board to rule out a nistune problem? If not, you should.....

^^^haha Shuffle on high load is a different story tho....

Bearing in mind every set up is different and there are many factors that have to be considered eg. actuator preload(mine are f*ck tight) boost controller settings and as some have said tuning.....and hell, diff ratios for all I know Also mine is not in a gtr, but everything is set up as normal beside for a 2.5" hot pipe from TT pipe to intercooler which I guess could be contributing. Either way no biggie. There are some here who get it with oem turbs....

Same same..... I switched between the two back when I had my 25 no probs. Also remember Rb25det pfc works on both S1 and S2 with no settings to change when switching between the two.

I was thinking shuffle would happen easier with the smaller BB type turbs like the -7,-9 where they make boost very early in the rev range, say 2k-2.5k and the engine just simply cannot ingest that amount of air, and with the oem journals and the -5,-10 that do not start to make positive pressure so early it would not really be a problem. With the -9s crusing along on 5th flat roads, just easing on the throttle at 2k ish is enough to make +ve pressure and you get shuffle. Ive never driven a car with -5s, but under the same conditions, does it make +ve pressure to induce shuffle?

Tuning in terms of what??..... Boost controller? Not really seening how fuel/ign maps would have a play

Actually got a custom aluminium TT pipe courtesy the japs for the sole purpose of rectifying this,as I have heard it has to do with how the turbs merge....just havent slapped it on as yet

I get shuffle with -9s.....Stock intake piping

Not really... You are correct about the label change between the 2860 and 2560, however the 2859(-9) uses a 59.4mm Exd comp wheel unlike the 2860/2560(-5,-7) which uses a common 60.1mm wheel hence the label 2859 and 2860 respectively. Common Garrett practice to label turbos by using the Comp wheel Exd size, but when dealers/retailers eg. gcg advertise them they sometimes confuse the whole thing.

Technically the -9 is a 2859

Errrrrmmm......NO. Only R34s are ball bearing.

Yes nissan updated it along with the design of the strainer seat. AFAIK the gasket is used on the 33/34 blocks where the oil strainer does not have a grove in it and both surfaces are perfectly flat hence the reason for the gasket. On the 32s where there is a groove on the strainer it will be better to use an o ring as nissan intended, because who knows how that gasket would seal with the indented ring falling exactly where the groove in the strainer is