Don Dada

My stock set up with splitfires was able to idle good at 14.7 and even down to 15.0 with very slight roughness. And yes the lag time is less than std as stated on Tomei web site (0.61)and therefore have to input a minus value Not sure I understand what you said in the last statement though because changing either %correction or lantency affects afr across the entire map so changing latency alone to get good afr at idle will affect afr on load too.

Jez with the pfc base map, correction on 80% and lag on 0, as I go toward stoich it starts to get rough....Only with the ac off. Its the part with the ac that has me stumped, although i did notice this even with the oem injectors and pfc,and even futher back when it had the oem ecu. It would always idle smoother with the ac on, Its just with these nismos now its really noticable with it off I'm not sure I'd call it a lean "pop" though.... Its just sort of rough and afr moves around by about 0.3afr

Yea really interesting Mr Lith...Thought maybe I had a bogus set of injectors as they are second hand. I made up my own "test bench" and cleaned and flow tested them myself as no one does that locally, and they basically flowed the same with the higher flowing ones from 6 to 1. I really didnt think I would have this sort of problem though because they not much bigger and they actually have less lag time than the std ones Zebra...How rich is rich?

Guys Im having a little issue setting up my top feed 555cc Nismos pink tops on my rb26 Following Pauls pfc faq the new settings worked out to 80% and -0.16 that is using a lag time of 0.61 as stated for Tomei injectors which I believe is the same as Nismos Input the settings with the current map the car was running and it goes crazy lean Input the settings with the pfc base map and it goes crazy rich to around 10.4ish I really didnt expect it to be spot on but I never expected it to be that way off either. The thing is when I make my corrections to get proper afr on idle(14.7) it idles really lumpy and does not feel ok till I richen it up to low 13s..... BUT with the ac on it idles smooth even if I lean it out past 14.7 The rpm at idle and with the ac on is basically remains the same and voltage also remains the same at 13.9-14V. Otherwise cold/hot starts is normal. I tried various combinations where I changed the correction % and the lag time together then even one by one, and compensated for it each time on the fuel map but it never wants to idle smooth unless its rich on low 13s So am I to believe these injectors have to be on the rich side to idle smoothly?

Did you clip the limiter? Knock seems a little high as well

When I got mine the section of the hole towards the end of the rod was sitting on the middle of the pin on the wasteagate flap. I tightened it in 2 complete turns and it now sits almost to the edge of the pin.....a little effort to go on but nothing hard to do, and I noticed the oem turbs had about the same preload too as I have them on now. I will continue to fiddle with them as it only takes me about 10mins to adjust....the hardest part is letting it cool down. I will post the results The 2-3degs you mentioned,..... Is it actually 2-3 notches on the cam gear?.. If so, it will actually be 4-6degs as 1 notch is equal to 2 degs

Yea I agree with it being quicker coming into boost. As I shown above I got it to basically the same level of boost at the same rpm but it actually feels better than the stocks coming into boost Today I disconnected the signal going to the acts and it showed that these babies are capable of 18psi at around 4k hence why i asked about your cam gear settings as I feel there might have some gain to be had there still. What boost are you seeing with the ebc off? I have the 8.8psi acts so I'm trying to get the best response I can with them by adjusting preload and then i would interfere with the ebc. Did you adj prelaod on yours btw?

Set it to 8000rpm, learn some throttle control and try to keep it around 7000 max.....Try very hard not to hit the limiter as there is a chance of blowing it up everytime you do

Nice results man. Is the lower boost (14psi) setting straight off the actuators with ebc off? Are the cam gears adjusted? If so do you know if they were adjusted in favour of response and what the settings are?

Well with two turns in on the actuators I was able to get it down to stock like response, well on paper at least....To me it feels even better than stock coming into boost Top -1/-9, bottom is stock Is boost creep the only thing to look for with too much preload? I want to shorten them some more

Thought of that but wouldnt the cat temp light illuminate on the dash?....espcecially after reving t to 7k Either way OP...Do eeet

Hmmm....interesting No smoke even when reving to 7k? Any strange noise before it started to do it? How much boost were you running before?

Forget the cams Cam gears,Nismo afms and moar boost!

Youre so coool....I didnt even know that could come out haha

One thing though... Do you guys actually take off the cam cover to hold the cam from turning while slackening/tightening the cam gear as shown in the manual? Its wierd though because for one they show holding the gear on the outside with some sort of tool, and for the other they show holding the cam itself with an adjustable wrench....Maybe just to illustrate that it can be done either way??

Look into the oil feed and see if it is restricted. My -1/-9 I installed last wk had the restrictor built in the core....To the bottom of the hole was completely sealed off, and to the side about where the thread stops there was a tiny hole probably 1mm or less. You actually have to look good to see it, and honestly I think the -5 would be the same. Always wondered why HKS lncluded the banjos in the gtss kit....Probably just to justify the price : ) You'll also have a little work to do with the front turb oil drain pipe to get it to work. BTW....No need to worry about the whole "S" thing....Just labelling AFAIK

Hmmm.... Was going to try doing it this way but I think thats goin to be tough because even with the tensioner slack its a bitch.

Yea but what do you mean by the ignition cuts out? Pfc does not have any sort of protection???

^^^What duty are you seeing now with the 555cc and at what afr?....I'm running nismo 555 as well

Not in Aus, but converted to Aud it came up to $2100. Sean ...Is it possible to get rpm with your next tune?

Dyno tune will be a while still when I'm ready to adjust the cam gears.Until then its road tuned N1GTR.. Technically the only thing new about this is the actuators, and I'm sure if you purchaced -9 from gcg etc. they would put on the same 8.8psi actuator like what I got. Otherwise, same -1 / -9 / Gtss unit. I think response can be tweaked further with the tune and also with boost control as there is no creep and very minimal spike(1psi) as is right now, so definately some gain to be have there, even if minimal.....and then there are cam gears Have only been driving it a few days, but it does pull a touch harder on 13psi, But so far I'm satisfied that I have turbs capable of 300rwkw with stock like response.

Well since there is NO info on this here I just thought i'd put this up and update as I go along. The comparision below is results for the -1 turbo which is the -9 that comes with a 8.8psi actuator from Garrett, compared to stock R33 Gtr turbos. The top window is the -1/-9 which reaches the same level of boost(13.3psi) about 200-300rpm later than the stocks, and the car drives basically the same as before. The ONLY thing changed was the boost level was raised only one notch on the controller (profecb2) to get the same level for comparision....start/gain etc was left the same and the pfc tune was untouched. My boost control kit reads 1psi low for some reason, hence 13.3psi Ignore the scale on the bottom as this would be different due to the length(secs) of each log

Yea...Dont think you would pick it up with the oem gauge as its slow.I have a mechanical guage so you see it instantly. Dont know why nissan didnt fix this in the later gtrs. They could have at least redesigned the dip stick, as I'm sure this caused quite a few spun bearings

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr. A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.