Don Dada

My Rb26 is rwd and it surges like a bitch if you fill it to the normal H mark on the dip stick, so I for you guys with a little more grip of the awd, it would obviously be worse. When I fill it with 5.5L it sits just above the H itself on the stick, but it still surges a bit, but I think it should be ok for normal street duties....Track will definately use 6L. EAT26...Does it drop only on hard accel.? Or does it do it too when already in motion and bringing up the revs?

Yes

No need to ask twice....

Two things I can think of would be either tps or map sensors Did you have a look at the map sensor voltages when it does it? I get that same problem (L jetro) when on decel and only if I gently rest my foot on the X, It starts to pop and gurgle and ign goes way retard like 5-10* If I dont touch the X, ign remains on 20* and no pops or farts ^Btw. Is that normal?

Bolt on???....Ha! I removed the comp housing to even get the hard lines on without bending them! For some reason too I always thought the holes on the oil drain had to be elongated as well. I guess that was maybe for -5/-10, but I'm glad I didnt have to do that too.

You guys got some balls to mount it on the turbo and try to bend it on there!! I think I'll give it a try though, but I'll drill two holes in a piece of iron or something and mount it on that to be safe. And yea...I spent a while trying to get them lined up properly so I wont have any issues like you mentioned. But thanks for that, as I feel I would trial fit the pipes before attaching all the other stuff.

Just want to know what you guys do with the oil drain pipe for the front turbo, as it falls directly in line with one of the comp housing bolts, fowling on it and causing the flange not to sit properly. I was thinking maybe using a 12mm head bolt or smaller and grind a bit off it, and also grind piece of the clamp? That pipe looks impossible to bend without screwing it up. -1 / -9 Garretts btw.

Spray some Wd40 on it first....The rubber seal locks it in there pretty good.... And you wont damage the rubber

Yes this.... If you said you resealed the TBs and have the same problem, you should definitely look at this.

So with the EBC off you are seeing 8psi? Even though, they are adjustable for a reason. I think you should shorten the rods a bit and see what results you get from that first. However I dont think you'll be able to tighten them up to 14psi, but you should be able to reduce that drop off a bit

I'm assuming you have -7? Didnt they come with acts? Or did you use stock nissan items?

Yea, but after the "extra special unit" I did not stop there,....I went on to say where I was from which is far and it would be lots of headache to return, so that by itself should of cleared up any doubts He mentioned this second unit thing before in another thread and I had no idea what he was talking about, and to tell you the truth if he hadnt highlighted it in that statement above, I still would not have had a clue where he got that idea from. And even though, if he really thought I did want a second item, what was the big deal to tell me no, that's not possible, or that I would have to pay for the next one??? Anyway I'm over it.....I have my Datalogit and couldnt be happier, and I have asked that my personal info be deleted, and/or everything else, if the mods see fit.

Thank you guys..... This guy seems to be the only one that is interpreting that statement to mean I wanted two units, even though in the first line of the email I clearly stated I wanted to place my order for one unit. And even if you did have a doubt about a "extra special unit" I even gave an explanation as to why, and I think anyone would have recognised what I meant by that. The hard part about it is that you didnt have the decency to let me know that in "your own little world" there was a problem, even after multiple other emails asking if there was in fact a problem. You should stick to playing with software or what ever it is that you do, and let someone else do the PR work!

Yea I dropped fuel pressure a bit so I wouldnt have to take out as much using the safc2, as ign was pretty high as is, and taking out more fuel would have sent it even higher...crude, but it worked for my stock turb on 11-12psi,....dont know how it would work with your high flow though. Also start tuning with your cas in the stock position(15*) and then go from there.

You have to set up the knk correction as shown in the manual....This set up is to basically calibrate the unit and it uses this data to give you a final knk level, so your set up will be different to mine or anybody else own. Another funny thing with the safc2 is that the hotter the unit itself gets it will read higher knk but only on idle...when you start to drive it goes back down, so you can ignore this knk on idle. My suggestion is do the correction as the manual states, but take a drive and make sure the engine is up to temp and place the safc where it would be permanently installed so it too will be at its "normal" operating temp, then do the set up....This way it shouldnt be too sensitive but still accurate enough. I normally keep my levels under 20 but I have experimented heaps on mine along with the pfc and using my ear also....You'll have to fiddle with yours too, but you will definitely know when its knocking, it should give you some higher spikes above the normal level...the hard part it determining what is the normal level for you set up..... Anyway knk detection definitely works, and I actually trust it more than my pfc to tell you the truth As for the Ne pts...You'll only know where to set them properly when you start to tune and pick up the extra rich parts and flat spots in the rev range...leave it as default for now

I always wondered about that learning proceedure as I did it initally when I installed it, but everytime I disconnected it for some reason it would hunt and act stupid when driving after that especially with the ac on, but that only last for a couple days and is as sweet as after that again Anyway OP if you think you have the need to do it again, when you initialise it make sure to switch off the ign after selecting same or it would not actually reset.

There is nothing good about that....Where the car will drive ok when you floor it from low rpm and let it run up, it will be totally different say if you are crusing at 4500rpm and then sink it....It might ping its ass off coming into boost, as the ecu now uses a totally different set of load points which timing will be to advanced because of the changes you made to the fueling around that rpm. Thats why we say its a balancing act and can be very frustrating to get those holes tuned out....worse yet with a high flow turbo For your set up you need some sort of ign control....without that youre wasting time

I dont think one on the solenoid is necessary as the internals are large enough for any shit to pass through. The control unit is different though because its a deadend and everything will accumulate indide there and fowl the map

Nice time.....Did you get a retune with the new acts fitted?

I have been there and as mentioned before its a juggling act to get it to work properly. What happens is when you get the tune ok for like a dyno style run(putting it in 4th and flooring it from 2000rpm) that tune is not ideal for say part throttle, high rpm coming into boost...it usually pings its ass off So its a whole balancing act where you have to adjust cas timing,fuel pressure and boost + the tune to get it to work OK and I see no way possible you'll get 220rwkw with it considering the oem ecu goes berzerk at 10psi with the stock turbo. If you want to use the safc, it should be good for about 190ish rwkw with stock turbo at 11-12psi with a safe tune...if not get a pfc/nistune. I have pfc now and still use the safc2.....strictly for kock detection tho. It works very good at that actually, once you set it up properly

From my personal experience,these guys suck a$$ big time..I had a hard time even getting to buy the unit, so I could just have imagined after sale support. If it turns out your datalogit is bad, just spend the extra and get a new one....Thats what I did and have no regrets

Apparently this is the language used in maroubra

What do you mean by boosted? 10psi,20psi,30psi??? And are you referring specifically to the R34 gtr? or 32/33 gtr as well? because they are two totally different designs.

Well thats the thing....the comp outlet at he end is the same but its really hard to measure otherwise.....Thats why I filled both with water to check the volume, which basically measured the same. Hear this.... I did measure the depth at various points around as shown in the pic on the Honeywell (newer) casting and even though it was smaller on the outside, it actually measured deeper at some points than the other casting which was physically larger watching it from the outside, so that means the extra bulge was in fact due to the thickness of the casting itself...I would say almost 3/8" thicker around where the rectangle is printed close to the outlet. You could clearly tell the difference between manufactures as the newer housing was much cleaner / smooth / neat than the older style gtss / -9 which everyone knows I'm not clear how A/R is calculated, but seeing that both are the same 0.42A/R and both hold the same volume of water, even though the shape is not 100% the same internally does it mean that it will flow the same? It should have the same comp map right?

Not my pics but this seems to be the newer castings for the gtss/-9/-1 This is the older style casting I have one of each You can see the difference in the "hump" on the comp...the older style is definitely larger but both are 0.42A/R Trustr32 not hijacking,.... just want to keep this info in one place