Don Dada

Ok here goes... My next turbo arrived and it has the "S" on the pn. (GT2859R - 780371 - 5001S)...This turbo however was made by Honeywell the other one which the supplier had from before, and have to pair up with (GT2859R - 780371 - 5001) was made by Allied signal. I measured up the wheels and both measured the same, visually looked the same and even had the same numbers stamped on in the same spot. However the comp housing on the Allied signal was visually larger (fatter) where the text is printed on to the front and just had "garrett" and M24 printed where as the Honeywell had "garrett" M24 and .42A/R and some other stuff on it....You could clearly notice a difference between size of the comp housings. I taped up the comp inlet and outlet with duct tape and filled them with water and they both basically measured up the same I was thinking the difference is just due to different casting, as u could feel the bigger housing (Allied signal) was thicker and heavier. Both housings are .42A/R so does this mean technically that they should flow and perform the same even though one is physically larger looking on the outside??...Inside bore looked the same but hard to tell.

Nice!.... But you know we would all want to see it on paper right?

hand written on the id tag??? So on the box has 5 characters after the dash right?....the last one is most likely an S as it seems to be part of the new labelling but does not always appear on the id tag on the unit itself These turbos have to be EXACTLY the same for it to work properly paired on a rb26

Just out of curiosity...does it have an "S" after the part no.on either one? And whats the numer on the box?

Take off the c clip at the end of the rod,raise it off and try to turn the wastegate flap with your hand

Yea apexi is rated highly here What happend to yours?

Just knowledge for everyone i guess

Dont know if your meter has a continuity function but touch the two probes together and turn the selector till you hear a constant beep, then just hold the probes on two different points on the turbine wheel....If it beeps that means that the wheel is a conductor and therefore metallic If your meter does not have the above function, touch the two probes together and turn the dial to measure resistance(ohms) till you see the display zero off, again place the probes on two points of the turbine wheel and if you see it zero off or you get a small reading it is conductive. Similarly with either method above, you can touch it on a known metal like the comp housing and you will hear it beep or get a reading of almost zero ohms Ceramic is not a conductor and will not give any beep or reading Hope you understand

Yea....There are different grades of Inconel so some might be attracted to magnets and others are not. A better test might be using a multimeter and check for continuity ......Xkalaba you got a meter to check it out?

Get it tuned properly for your set up and leave it as is... I see no reason why you would want to use it sometimes and then not Anyway there is a function on it that lets you bypass the correction made(flatten it) and the reload it by holding down the button again on one of the screens......cant remember exactly which screen right now,, get the manual and read it up

What are you trying to accomplish? Its either you want to use it permanently or you bin it......

Looks good to me, but I would would use the clay just to be 100% sure of the fin angle ....but that's just me

Google is your friend... Basically the green hose is the source from the plenum T' ed , one side goes to the solenoid the other to the actuators, the other blue side from the solenoid is the pressure that is bled off that goes back to the intake....this has nothing to do with the diff, the diff hose goes to atmo To bypass the solenoid, what i did was take the source from the plenum connect it to the blue line(hard pipe) at "9" and where it comes out at "14" connect it to the actuators or ebc, and disconnect seal off everything else

All 32/33/34 turbs have the same mounting position and bolt up so basically you can put the 34 turbo in your car and everything will bolt up as normal The design/bend of the front pipe i'm not sure of interchangeability....

Its always some simple shit. Question is....Y did the fuse blow in the first place?

What boost are you seeing when this happens? Make sure the actuator is getting a proper boost source and you havent mixed up the vaccum hoses some how edit... now saw you have pfc so you can rule out overboost protection by the stock ecu Never the less make sure all hoses are properly connected Does it free rev smoothly?

25det?

Do a search on rich and retard you'll get plenty info Turn down the boost

Sounds like Rolls like hard pipes

Did it have the wire properly fitted inside?

Tomato, tomato haha Sven...You can move the bracket a tad if you cant get enough movement from modifying the housing itself The rear bracket hole is already slotted so just elongate the other two and bring it foward

He did say "All" gtr pumps you know

carry it back u should have at least 401kw to match the torque with those mods

Wrong 333/34 gtr do not have hicas off the pump

Y dont you use the orginal pump with the rear fins removed I see no reason why it would burn out because there will be fluid circulating in the front section as normal