mii11x

ill prob be checking them out tomorrow and testing the resitance to see if they are still fine, if they arent well ill buy the splitfires. looking to get a new loom while im at it also

he did tell me if i wanted a power figure he could get me the 260ish. he said it was tuned really safe and also by lunchtime it was 40degrees(i was there watching the tuning on the dyno). i dont think i ever put the graph on the critique my tune section, so maybe i should, or maybe post it here if your keen to check it out. i was a little dissapointed at first but glad it made that(236) as the old engine had done 340000km's so it was a massive improvement for me. but now i am thinking of going for more power so i will need to contact him, however i dont know where he has moved to. Not sure if i should say who tuned it now, but i was extremely happy using him to do all the work for me and he is pretty well known amongst silvia enthusiats. i would recommend him to anyone as i had no nonsense with him doing the work for me, we sat down at the start of it all, what i wanted to do with the car etc, then questions bout parts etc. he came back to me with some options and rough extimate and was very helpful with all my questions. didnt exceed my budget by too much which is always good.

the fella at auto one suggested these also.....think he said they were in the platinum range

firsty the car is making 236rwkw with an rb25det series 2, garrett 3071, power fc, 555cc injectors, 19psi etc and began making a misfire when i hit about 4000rpm on full throttle. i could lightly use the go pedal and creep up on boost but the misfire seemed only when throttle was mashed to the floor. was in need of service so while doing oil etc decided to change plugs. they looked fine and even through out 1-6 when i pulled them out. i made the mistake of putting back in platinums with a 1.1 gap (heat range 5) and the problem became worse. like really bad pretty much had to drive around off boost. anything above say 50% thorrle gave a misfire and a continuous one at that. i thought it might be coil packs but read the forums and found out that the higher power output from standard the gap of the spark plug should decrease. i was unaware of this. changed the plugs back to the standard $5 plug and gapped them at the 0.8 which seems the norm for most people on here. guess what.........problem has been pretty much resolved. it slightly misses once at about 4000rpm but other than that i can make full use of the power the car has. any other ideas about what could be causing this slight misfire still. not that its a bad miss(compared to the old plugs and the platinums) more like a clearing of the throat quickly, but it shouldnt be there as it never was when i got the car back after having the upgrades done around 14months ago(bout 12000km's). i should have tested the resistance on the packs but it became dark, might do tomorrow if i have the time. any ideas mick

they arent g4 by any chance, i got in ok condition fr and rl if needed

i had the same prob with two of my coilovers leaking, i did buy brand new teins last week (aussie spec super street) but the cheapy coilovers i had were the g4(the just jap ones) and for 6 years - bout 130000km. to rebuild them was quoted 300 - 350 per corner. i live in campbelltown nsw and would of had to ttaken them to brookvale - k sport. figured id spend a little more this time and now i can have these rebuilt just about anywhere when they shit themselves in another 6 years time. oh yeah my car is a 32gtst

I agree with sydking, i would go with what your tuner knows how to tune effectively. If he aint comfortable using the software/ hasnt used that particular ecu before etc, it could take him some time to figure out all the ins and outs which means $$$ spent on the dyno and his time cost also. how did you go with the conversion to rear wheel drive out of curiousity ie converting the sump. i only ask cos i was going to do the same conversion last year but my mechanic/tuner recommended a 25 instead which is what i went for. interested to see the outcome. while its all out id definitely be getting a timing belt kit (this includes the belt, tensioners, seals etc), depending of condition of rear main bearing seal id prob replace that too. im assuming your replacing the clutch to suit??? remember if you cant replace a clutch yourself its prob bout 4 hours worth of labour you'll eventually pay for. if you replaced to s suitable clutch now while its all out you save time and money. try do a cost comparison on rebuilding the turbos vs. upgraded. this should give you some idea whether it is more feasible to replace them now. basically unless you cant do things like bolt on upgrades yourself, its more cost effective to have everything you would like done at once. if you can hold off for a few more weeks, months id be waiting, buying parts and getting everything done while the conversion is happeneing. its so much easier to work on an engine on the ground out of the car. hoping all goes to plan with the rebuild mate and love to see the outcome cheers mick

Thanks for the replies. I aint sure bout the spring rates on the g4's as it was ages ago I got them. When i push down on the front corner of my car it barely moves. Just Jap ensured me that this was a standard spring rate when i got them though. Highly doubt it though. I Should test them now that they are coming out actually. I bought these yesterday though Cant wait to see the result Mick

so after noticing two of my 6yo (prob 150000km's) g4 coilovers are leaking and being quoted 250 a corner to repair i will ask a simple question am i wasting 1300 if i buy the bc's??? these g4's are really back breakers but learnt to live with them, should i be expecting the same?? now that i can spend whatever really (finished uni) for "brand name" new coilovers should i? but for a street car (not a daily) that sees maybe the track maybe four times a year i am probably better spending the extra say 700 (i would be paying around 1900 for aussie spec tein super street) on replacing bushes etc think i am answering my own question though lol after your thoughts peeps cheers mick

Hey guys, Does anyone know where Drift Garage - Luis moved to? He aint at Ingleburn - York Road anymore, need to contact Luis so if anyone knows his number or where/if he is still trading please reply. Thanks Mick

any chance you could take a photo after you fit these rims triptych??? something that shows how they sit in relation to the guards, like my photos in the original post. also what size tyres will you use??? and is your car lowered, have any guard work, have upgraded discs/callipers?? i received an email back from jdm concept in regards to 18's. they tell me a very conservative set will be 18x7.5 +35 18x8.5 +38 so i am leaning towards what they have to say, but wouldnt mind reading more responses, checking out photos etc. i am searching everywhere lol. guessing at a 225/40 tyre on front would be ok(maybe pretty close to what i already have) and maybe a 235-255/40 on the rear?? thanks to the replies so far though guys cheers mick

i no longer have the original wheels (but i believe the stock wheels are 16 x 6.5 +40) so when the calculator says eg sits 12mm furtherout i have no base on which to measure this from. i have looked in this thread and searched r32gtst and it doesnt give me much........also in my original post i ask/said the offset with different styles of wheels would also have an effect on where the wheel actually sits to my guard. does/would it?? there are a lot of posts regarding wheel offset and 32gtst's, most people go for the wheel sticking out and tyre stretching thing, but it aint for me. surely someone must have tried these wheels on a 32gtst before???

hi guys, so bout 6 years ago i made the mistake of buying rims from tempe tyres(rays etc were way expensive then) - they are starcorp racing vortex 18 x 7, not sure of my offset (well it says 7 on the rim but google searching the wheels says 18 x 7.5 no offsets provided - doubt they make any different widths or offsets as they are cheapie wheels). is there anyway i can measure the offset myself?? and guess i should measure the width so i know for sure. i ring tempe tyres and they dont really want to help me find out. i have 225/40 on front and 235 40 on rear. no scrubbing anywhere though the front tyres sit really close to the upper control arm. i ask this question cos i am wanting to but new rims for the car, either gramlights 57d or work xt7. trying to get a comparison on how the wheels will fit in relation to the guards etc. the photo below is how my current rims sit and i would like to keep the same sort of style. i dont like the 'mexican' look of rims sticking out past the guards and tyres stretched to the max. the car is not lowered (on adj coilovers though - the blue g4 ones), have no guard work and have the standard discs and four pot calipers in the front and standard discs and 2 pot calipers in the rear. the choices i have on the gramlights are 17 x 9 offset +12, +22, +38 18 x 9.5 offset +12, +22, +38 and the xt7 are 17 X 7.0 offset +32, +42, +47 17 X 8.0 offset +32, +42, +47 17 X 9.0 offset +17, +28, +38, +44 18 X 7.5 offset +35, +42, +48 18 X 8.5 offset +32, +38, +46 18 X 9.5 offset +12, +20, +30, +38 i would like to keep 18's but am considering 17's for cost of tyres, ride harshness due to the stiffness of the coilovers. I wouldnt mind if the new wheels and tyres come out that little bit more but i dont want them in any way to extend past the guards as imo they are magnets for the boys in blue. i tried looking at the offset calculator but i dont know offset of my current wheels, also looked/searched the forums for pics etc but most people like the sticking out and stretched tyre look. also i dont completely understand the offset thing on different stlye of wheels, surely different styles would have an effect on what offset the wheels should be. i cant stress enough that i dont want my car looking like this any help would be greatly appreciated thanks mick

hey guys, just after quick opinions from you all. i have the opportunity to purchase a second hand pair of mitsu evo 7 standard recaro seats (with rails for 32 gts) for approx $1100 (i left a deposit), i was thinking of 33gtr seats before these were offered. most sets of gtr seats that come up are still pretty worn for this price and also 10-15 years old. slight wear marks on the evo seats but generally better condition than most gtr seats i have seen. i have searched these on import monster - yahoo auctions japan and they are the same price (but then i have to ship them) also. what would you guys choose? i would prefer a brand new genuine bride gias 2 sport seat (driver only) but no where in sydney am i able to sit in these seats and am scepticle to have a seat sent to me without sitting in it. cheers mick

Mate there is a lot of things to be done to your engine besides just bolting on a new turbo to get this sort of power....ie supporting mods - injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, boost control, engine management to name a few. you want to spend 2k max, not laughing at you but id atleast double that amount to achieve your goals reliably. Mick

i would stick to the main brands, i prefer alpine and have never had a problem with any of the gear from them, hell i still gotta pair of 1st edition dddrive 5.25" splits from back in 96 that still go well today. never had any returns to them, however they are more expensive. Best advice i can lend you would be set a budget : allow 20-25% of the cost for install if getting it all installed in one hit, 30% headunit and the remaining 50% for amps, front splits only and a sub/s. i say 30% for headunit cos its the brains imo, if it provides high volume clipping then it will only be amplified (pardon the pun) if you have amps subs splits and you dont want to ruin your new speakers. also when you go to concerts/raves/festivals nearly all the sound is supplied from in front of you, rear speakers (if any needed) are fill only, hence save your cash dont buy 6/7/8 x 9/10/12, if your thinking bout them for the rear forget it, put the money towards better quality/sounding splits for the front stage. Go to all shops and listen to speakers when hunting for them, dont take other peoples word as this could lead to much disappointment. your ears hear differently to mine, and everybody elses. not sure bout now, but years ago a pair of jaycar splits costing bout 150 sounded way better than anything else under 500, they won many awards, so too did their sub's. my first setup while at uni consisted of alpine head deck, jaycar splits and 10" carbon sub powered by a nice alpine 4 channel amp, sounded awesome, ran second place in a small soundoff, and highest spl figure i got was 130db. bought a set of dddrive the following year to replace the jaycars and never turned my back on apline since really. now im all apline, higher end gear and i absolutely love it!! if you can install yourself, do it yourself, not with your mates, if they f**k something up, you and they wouldnt want to feel guilty.....after all its your car. secondly if you get it installed never let your mates touch/change any of the settings(this includes the volume knob too, you will one day turn it up to the point of crackling, everybody does, but you will also turn it down after noticing it, your mates may not). NEVER EVER let them adjust the gain on any amp you may get. if YOU are not happy with it how it sounds take it back to the installer and politely ask/say/tell them to adjust to suit your needs. If its professionally installed you can ask to test it before you leave to make sure YOU like how it sounds, after all its your car. if your mates are not happy with it how it sounds and want to start turning this and pressing that grab the nearest blunt force trauma producing object and promptly crack em with it. this makes it easier for you to kick them out your car. finally, back in the day i had no idea either, i read read and read some more so i had a little knowledge of what these shops were talking to me about. if i didnt understand them then i asked them to explain it to me, if they couldnt they didnt need my business as i was clearly in the wrong place. hope all my jibber jabber helps you in some way mate need anything else, ask away or shoot me a pm

liverpool exhaust did my 3" turbo back mandrel exhaust with x force muffler about 7 years ago for $1000. surely the adj muffler isnt worth $850. Is the quote you got for stainless steel or mild steel?? The high flow cat has already been replaced, so too the xforce cannon muffler due to corrosion. Liverpool exhaust seem ok when your there asking for a quote, different story though when i went to get it fitted and wanted to hang around and wait and watch. maybe they are owned by different people now, but my experience with them wasnt all that great. by the way, doesnt matter if the exhaust can have its sound reduced, it can still be defected even if it is at its quiet setting. rta guidelines clearly stipulate this.

perhaps a blockage or something to do with with your heater core??? dont know if this would affect it but maybe disconnect the heater hoses from back of block to firewall and join them together and test it.

hey guys, so i noticed a coolant leak inside the cabin of my car, coming from underneath the dash......guessing its to do with the heater and/or core?? its a drip really but need it fixed. anyone had this problem, or has anyone replaced there heater core??? how hard is it, can i get to it under the dash or is it going to be like a eight hour job removing the dash to get to it?? thanks mick

Hey Steve, If you have small hands(and dont mind carving your knuckles up a bit(adds to your character)) you can get in there lol, and yes there are two small hoses back there (bout 15mm diameter from memory) one is bout 10cm or less in length but cant remember the second one sorry. Definitely change both these hoses. There is also a bent shaped hose under the plenum(bout 30cm long with a chicane type of bend in it), it runs front to back along the block just under the plenum might be worthwhile changing that too while your at it. hope this helps Mick

what sort of offset were you looking at getting??

hey mate yeah just got the money sorted so ill be buying them really soon. pity though cos i was after more feedback here, plenty of people have a lot to say bout random stuff but when asked something a little more technical it seems no one wants to answer.

what sort of car were you planning on fitting them too???

hi playboi14, yes mate the r32 gtst has the antenna in the front windscreen, the line you are looking at in yours is the antenna..........try rewiring the coaxial antenna plug to fix the dodgy reception. hope this helps mick

So i'm looking to purchase a new set of rays gramlights 57d for the r32 and was looking to buy from Mu's Secret in Strathfield NSW. Anyone had any dealings with these guys before?? Any other suggestions where i can buy my rims from?? Thanks Mick