mtopxsecret6

Hi everyone, I'm chasing the factory rear parcel shelf speakers for a coupe R32. Just seeing what's out there? Thanks

Hi everyone, just looking to see what's available in the GTR seat options, testing the waters on what's available. Wanting a driver's seat to replace my old school OG jap race seat, going to re-register the car so need a factory seat. Prices currently seem to go from $300 to $2k for a driver's seat. What's options are there, that's good condition and actually a realistic price? Located Brisbane. Thanks

Are these a plug and play setup, and do they need a tune, like a haltech ecu etc? Thanks

Hi everyone, still chasing a bunch of this stuff. Thanks

Sent a Pm. Thanks

Hi everyone, I'm chasing full boot trim set with carpet.Also chasing a pair of front seats with velour trim. Also chasing rear seat belts aswell. I'm also after the rear parcel shelf trim piece aswell. thanks everyone

Hi everyone, in the quest to fix another issue I have a thread for, ive changed the plugs again, and noticed again, that I have oil on the spark plug threads, and the plug seats on the head. There is not oil leaking down inside the plug valley and pooling, it's inside the cylinders. Ive attached some photos. I'm not getting dipstick popping out from the sump, so I'm guessing its not coming past the piston rings. Would it be coming down through the valve stem seals? Thanks everyone

Ok, so after getting another aac valve, which actually has a sticker that says aav valve, the hot idle seems some what better, though still drops to 500rpm..ish and returns to 800rpm after a good rev. It still wants to try and stall though. Cold start is much better, the car idles around 1300-1500 intially and slowly reduces when it gets warmer. I'm getting 5v at the aac valve with the car warm and running. I'm not sure about the "low rev stalling" problem when the cars hot, I havent really fixed the problem at all.

Hi everyone, who here has an Idle Air Co ntol Valve from an rb20det? The one mounted to the plenum. Mine is cactus and I need another one thats working. I'm in Brisbane and would like to pick the part up. Send me a pm or reply here if you have one. Thanks

Ok, we are referring to the same thing items then.

Isnt cold start under the throttle body, and the AAC is warm idle control on the end of the plenum, with the idle control screw on the rb20det?

I'm waiting for a new AAC valve, the cold start is working on the test bench. And it turns out when you crank the motor thats when the fuel pump relay kicks in, and you get power to those two plugs.. Durr.. So, the solenoid on the AAC is cactus, so that explains why that wont work, and I believe the cold start may have been just jammed etc. I pulled it apart, hit it with electrical cleaner, and I'm m currently cycling it on the test bench atm, and it seems to be operating. When I get the new AAC valve, I can continue this adventure, and give progress updates. Thanks for the help/brainstorming so far everyone!

Where do I find this wiring manual? Is it a file on the website?

I'm m not getting power to either of the solenoids, so I'm confident this is the issue. Both leads on the cold start valve is earthing out. And with a cold engine, I have no power at the AAC valve plug, I did momentarily have some yesterday. I had the injectors cleaned, fuel is at 50psi, not sure how to test ignition timing. I'm going to swap ecus and see if that has anything to do with it.

Why didn't i think of this! Haha Ive tested the ohms, its 75 as stated on the plug. The opening isnt quite half way, its more a quarter. And ive had it sitting on the test bench and it has moved. To a closed position. Is there a process to open the valve a bit more to get it to half way? Ive attached a photo of mine at the cold position, you can just make out its on the quarter open position. So for some reason I have no power at the plug through the loom.