mtopxsecret6

Sent a Pm. Thanks

Hi everyone, I'm chasing full boot trim set with carpet.Also chasing a pair of front seats with velour trim. Also chasing rear seat belts aswell. I'm also after the rear parcel shelf trim piece aswell. thanks everyone

Hi everyone, in the quest to fix another issue I have a thread for, ive changed the plugs again, and noticed again, that I have oil on the spark plug threads, and the plug seats on the head. There is not oil leaking down inside the plug valley and pooling, it's inside the cylinders. Ive attached some photos. I'm not getting dipstick popping out from the sump, so I'm guessing its not coming past the piston rings. Would it be coming down through the valve stem seals? Thanks everyone

Ok, so after getting another aac valve, which actually has a sticker that says aav valve, the hot idle seems some what better, though still drops to 500rpm..ish and returns to 800rpm after a good rev. It still wants to try and stall though. Cold start is much better, the car idles around 1300-1500 intially and slowly reduces when it gets warmer. I'm getting 5v at the aac valve with the car warm and running. I'm not sure about the "low rev stalling" problem when the cars hot, I havent really fixed the problem at all.

Hi everyone, who here has an Idle Air Co ntol Valve from an rb20det? The one mounted to the plenum. Mine is cactus and I need another one thats working. I'm in Brisbane and would like to pick the part up. Send me a pm or reply here if you have one. Thanks

Ok, we are referring to the same thing items then.

Isnt cold start under the throttle body, and the AAC is warm idle control on the end of the plenum, with the idle control screw on the rb20det?

I'm waiting for a new AAC valve, the cold start is working on the test bench. And it turns out when you crank the motor thats when the fuel pump relay kicks in, and you get power to those two plugs.. Durr.. So, the solenoid on the AAC is cactus, so that explains why that wont work, and I believe the cold start may have been just jammed etc. I pulled it apart, hit it with electrical cleaner, and I'm m currently cycling it on the test bench atm, and it seems to be operating. When I get the new AAC valve, I can continue this adventure, and give progress updates. Thanks for the help/brainstorming so far everyone!

Where do I find this wiring manual? Is it a file on the website?

I'm m not getting power to either of the solenoids, so I'm confident this is the issue. Both leads on the cold start valve is earthing out. And with a cold engine, I have no power at the AAC valve plug, I did momentarily have some yesterday. I had the injectors cleaned, fuel is at 50psi, not sure how to test ignition timing. I'm going to swap ecus and see if that has anything to do with it.

Why didn't i think of this! Haha Ive tested the ohms, its 75 as stated on the plug. The opening isnt quite half way, its more a quarter. And ive had it sitting on the test bench and it has moved. To a closed position. Is there a process to open the valve a bit more to get it to half way? Ive attached a photo of mine at the cold position, you can just make out its on the quarter open position. So for some reason I have no power at the plug through the loom.

Does anyone know which is positive and negative on the plug? Thanks

I dont get super high idle, I get super hard cold starts, and hunting and super low idle when warm.

Ok, so this means it should have a constant 12v signal with ignition on? The fuel pump fires up and runs, so its getting a signal to run. Ive pulled the cold start valve apart, its dead clean inside, I've hit it with 12v and nothing happens. I can move the pcb with my hand forward and back against the spring, though I'm not sure what normal operation is meant to be with a 12v signal. Thanks

Hi everyone, Ive done a search, though I cant find exactly what I'm asking here. The cold start valve(under the TB on the rb20det), what voltage does it see at the plug? Is it 12v? And when does it see a voltage? Cold engine, ignition on(engine not running), should I be seeing a voltage at the plug for the valve? Im not getting a voltage under this scenario, if I'm suppose to, any ideas on where to look to fault find this? I've finally had enough of the horrible cold starts and rough warm idle problems and I'm finally doing something about it. Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone, Im looking for a GEN 1 or GEN 2 Apexi AVCR. Complete with solenoids etc and in working condition. Prefer Brisbane for pick up, though will do shipping if need be. Attached photos of both units. Thanks

Hey mate! Ill send a pm to you.

Hi everyone, looking for an APEXI Sitc, ignition timing co troller, like the photo. Has anyone got one? Thanks

Hey everyone, Im looking for a pair of HKS Super Drager mufflers. In good condition. Im looking for the type one version, Ie the big barreled version not the slimmer barrel version. In Brisbane would be nice, though ill pay for postage if needed. Thanks

Hi guys, im still looking for one of these. Thanks

WTB Apexi RSM2 Hey guys, looking for an Apexi RSM2, same as the photo in great condition. Who has one sitting on a shelf not being used? Thanks

WTB r32 GTST rear boot badging Hey guys, I'm looking for r32 GTST boot badges. After the factory Nissan badges. happy to pay for postage if not in Brisbane for pick up. Thanks guys

Hey guys, i'm looking for a blitz oil pressure gauge. The carbon face black light meter one. looking for a complete setup with sender etc. Just like the photo. Thanks

Hi guys, as the title says, after an Apex Super Intake filter(not the power intake) to bolt directly to a z32/Rb maf sensor. Does any body have one of these? Picture attached for visual reference. Thanks

prefer for r32, though doesnt matter. only after the actuall muffler, not a full exhuast. thanks