LedZepLen

thanks allot this gives me a very good reason to upgrade everything else in that area if my rad and reinforcement bumper need to come off. Definitely will be a confidence booster having good oil pressure.

Damn. Thats how i finished off 10,000km of driving this summer by losing controll in 2nd at 80km/h accelerating and hit a curb, worst part is it was a week before it was gonna get parked for the winter. Never thought it would happen on dry pavement as i never screwed up in the rain yet with rwd. Well i had a close call downshifting to 3rd in the rain at 130km/h pulling an sti and got right bent. My damage: - front left rim and rear right rim (finally i have a reason to change the last guys chromies) - rear right hub i bent in the part the lower A arm connects to - snapped front left radius rod - that little rod that the steering is attached to is bent - front left A arm bent to hell - left sideskirt is broken from the front tire hitting it My plan: - $2000 to replace absolutly everything except front and rear K members from DriftWorks - Tein coilovers - 18x9 18x10 rims with as wide of RE01R tire i can fit with rolled fenders - stock sideskirt - a gtr wing painted up so i feel like i did some good to the exteriour - $300 for a replacement hub with new shoes for both sides - then i get to do my planned mods I figured that was the reason GTR's are awd but apparently we both need good tire and suspension upgrades If the car needs body work and paint a widebody kit would not be a very far fetched idea. Or call up import scrap yards and find someones car that had a date with a tree and has what you need in good condition.

Just like every manufactures track version (besides Viper ACR, Vette zr1, and Mustang 427r Track Pack) they are never offered at a reasonable price for what they are because if you dont want to pay for it someone else will. Many Spec V, GT3 RS, Superlegera, Scuderia, S7, gt500 KR and everything else in that general group will either be owned by hardcore racing teams and shops who want the best platform to build a car allong with the glorious name attached. Or by someone with a hell of allot of money who wants a unique car to beat the living sh1t out of on the track. Or by someone who will keep the plastic and warning/instuction tags on it, keep the value high and show off to friends in their hermetically scealed garage. To us, all we see is a car that has more then doubled in price that we could build better. Look at Skyline era parts and this cars current list of aftermarket. This car wont sell because of a 2 sec improvement. If Nissan put Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires like Chevy and Porche do on their street/track cars along with carbon ceramic brake pads and a 30% increase in boost pressure Nissan would shave a bit more then 2 seconds before resorting to carbon fibre parts that are abviously not doing much more then give the new owner something to talk about. Or they are doing allot and Nissan and Best Motoring did lap times faster then they should have posted for the stock model which Porche seems to be bitching about, because either Porches test driver can't drive or GTR's were tweaked. Just a thought. But to be honest, you do pay for the performance offered by Nissan. Just now you actually pay for the performance where before it was a bargin if you could get your hands on one. We had one in my town that i was harassing the dealership to get one in and they got a Black Edition that was origionally listed for $80,000. They had 3 people who put deposits on the car in the 4 months before it arrived: $25,000, $30,000 and $50,000. When it was all said and done it sold for $130,000 and luckily to someone in town. I was lucky enough to sit in it. Bottom line, theirs allot of hype and their is no reason except demand to jack the price. I mean, i wanna move to Australia and i'm blown away seeing mint condition early 2000 v spec, vspec 2, NUR, m spec r34's going for 60,000-100,000. If someone who knows nothing about skylines looks at these numbers they think people are crazy when a 2001 GTR with a few mods is going for $10,000 less then a 09' GTR is listed for (yet never sells for list). Lets all beg nissan to make a manly version of both. This being the EVO model i've been hearing about thats gonna have a clutched manual gear box. This should be the one worth waiting for, this will be the one people will build dog boxes for and shops will want as long term investments with real potential. Spec V is neat, but give us DRIVERS something to dream about and not a racing version with an auto that outweighs a damn Mustang. I guess they need to do more show then go mods to please the American market.

I have an r32 gts-t with every bolt on besides a top mount and from the first year i had it when it was bone stock running 7psi to now running 18psi I have always had poor oil pressure. When the car is fully up to operating temterature i'll run about a bar a boost 90% of the time with maybe 2 bar reving out if i havent sunk allot of heat into the oil. The part that bothers me more then anything is the lag i notice getting a temperture reading from my mehanical oil temp gauge which takes it's reading from my Greddy oil filter relocation kit. Something else that bothers me is that my car had annother rb20 put into it in 98' (tag on firewall) and that the main problem in RB's is oiling. How much bull sh1t is involved in replacing an oil pump? I have little confidence in my car lasting annother 10,000km summer of hard beatings with this oil problem and a 25/40 or 20g upgrade to my tdo5 with 550cc injectors in it's near future. I have the car about 2 feet off the ground for the winter to replace every single peice of it's suspension so if it is possible to replace the oil pump without removing the engine i have it at a very good height to work on it.

i was happy when i drove 'more' normal and got 345km to a tank. would have got more but we have a road thats 27.3km paved before a few hundred km's of gravel, all twisties to avoid being bombed in ww2 and i usally lose 3/16's+ of a tank making a quick run (120 in 2 places, 140 everywhere else with 2 200+ spots) But i averaged 260km - 310km most of the summer running a full tank down to 1/8. mods : all sensors cleaned Stock 270cc injectors Wolbro 255l Nismo reg (56psi) front facing plenum with 4 3/4" thick intercooler with 3" piping Greddy td05 16g (1 to 1.3bar) hks silent exaust turbo back with no cat Greddy oil air seperator, oil filter relocation, breather tank Act clutch, Nismo flywheel, Nismo solid shifter and a Mines tuned ecu not tuned for the mods Fuel was 94 octane ehtanol blended fuel running a shot of NOS Racing octane boost with every tank (never ran 100% without that exact combo of products) Kinda funny seeing how proper tunes make all the difference in mileage. When i get my 550cc injectors z32 maf and to4e installed i'll send in the Mines unit to get retuned. Try cleanaing or replacing your o2 sensour, clean your maf sensour and change out your fuel filter. Remeber that even the slightest increase in throttle position makes a tiny chain reaction that'll burn noticeably more fuel without much more gain in speed every little bit of turbo usage will effect your fuel consumption. Get a boost and air fuel gauge and you'll be susprised what even small changes in driving habit/style makes to overall fuel consumption. But for the most part i just said screw it, i paid good money and worked my ass off working on this car and i'll be damned if i drive it like an econo-car. PEDAL TO THE METAL, AND LETS SEE HOW MANY GEARS SHE'LL KEEP SPINNIN THEM AT.

Anyone know where to buy adapter plates to further inhance gtr front and rear brakes? i didn't really think about the balance i just thought with running the widest R compound tires i could fit i could use some good stopping power but times and preservation definitely are the only real important qualities. Also, would i need the mastercyliner from a GTR or is the GTS one capable of running the larger calipers?

I wan't a fairly cheap brake upgrade for my 89' r32 GTS-T and i was thinking about finding spacers to fit larger rotors for the stock brakes or using my stock front brakes in the rear and usung gtr brakes in the front. Is this possible? Can i make my own spacer brackets (very good metal fabricator)? I know neither of these options is technically legal so are they possible for someone who can't put $7,000 into increasing brake power but need something to slow from high-speeds at the track. Any insight? Any laughs? Any ideas?

Well in a town of 80,000 in Canada it's hard to get through town without being on a few didgital cameras and since it's a rhd in a North America every second stop light someone wants to chat (40% pretty ladies, 40% playstation generation, 20% confused 40+ car guy's). Very easy to meet pretty ladies and i've gotten numbers cruising 80km/h on the highway, doesn't help either it being the nicest one in town out of 4. But my girlfriend knows nothing about cars, sees no significance in it and didn't know it existed for a while so i love her for her and she loves me for me. I even let her drive it since she spent 2 months in Australia with her friend and toured arroung in a manual van the whole time. Her family in the UK figued i live in the wrong country, haha.

My buddy was dicking arround with it in his dads shop trying to get my car started but it turned out the fuel system was backwards and when i figured it out i just had and still have the stock one on. But to give you an idea how messed up my Nismo one must be they were going all the way from tight in to loosened right out. From what i heard you need to make only slight adjustments at a time from the factory setting of 1:1. Could someone count the threads on theirs please from the lock nut to the top nut??? If yours is adjusted just say for what. I'm rebuilding my tdo5 16g this weekend and run 15psi to an rb20det plus redoing my intercooler piping so i'd like to have this stupid reg on and able to make smart adjustments before hitting the strip. Thank you and have a good laugh if anything.

I would like to rebuild my TD05 16g thats on my RB20det as it's BOV is useless and the turbo doesn't have that smooth high pitched sound any more as theirs a rediculous ammount of play. I have a HKS TO4E 50 trim that might as well be brand new for next year but i wanna know if i could put a TD05 20G compressor housing and wheel on my little 16g while im rebilding it?? if i can i would like to get annother used 16g for a skyline and do the same thing and have a set of these for an rb26. Are rebuilds pretty easy? i did everything to my car but the clutch, but are their any unknown problems i'd have if i tried it myself or is it as simple as i'd expect?

haha Indeed it was hooked up backwords, started first try. I took it out and made boost twice in 3rd and pulled damn good on a solid .9bar boost. Thank you.

SOB Well i put my new computer in it and it wont start. It starts and runs on 'Limp Mode' but thats about it. I check for engine codes and it reads "all ok" when i first tried to start it it had "Crank angle sensor" code but when i reset it, it read no codes but "all ok". I have a new fuel pump on the way because we figured it was that before the computer came in as the pump couldn't push fuel past the stock regulator and we have the NISMO one set soft enough that it idles very smoothly in 'Limp Mode' but when set anywhere near stock it shuts down same with if we plugged the MAF back in while running or while off ?(with the occasional sputter). On the weekend the only way we even got a sputter was with the fuel line bypassing the reg and directly into the ruel rail till we tried setting the reg pretty much based on the noise of the pump and got in "limp mode". Anyone have similar problems or any possible solutions of places to check?? we looked at the pump and it was changed at one point with a walboro one which is what i have ordered and it sounds good but doesn't feed enough fuel right now to start. Does limp mode just make it run rich enough that it will run without enough pressure for it's normal tune or do i have once again an extremely unique problem?? Held, Advise or Bash this confused enthusiast.

hahaha My little rb20det last year with a catback and pod filter never got 300km to about 55L fill ups with allot of throttle. But i cleaned my MAF and O2 sensour this year so when i get my new fuel pump and my car will start i guess i'll see what proper milage looks like when i break in my clutch and cant give it a shat-beating every day.

put a new used starter on todayand the 9v when turning over issue is fixed, got every sensor tested and theirs no signal comming to the little modual ontop of the plug cover to tell the injectors and spark plugs to work so i guess the starter fried the ECU because he popped out the CAS and put that back in and tested the wires and that should be functioning. Now i just need to wait for my Mines ecu from Japan (i'm gonna run 94 octane with NOS Racing octane booster)

no i didn't paint the inside, some very careful tapeing. Their is fuel in the fuel rail, pump sounds the same as last year, the engine turns over well. The block is getting a posative voltage of 9.5v when the starter is running which could be the starter grounding power to the block that shouldn't be their. CAS should be inline but i'll sure to keep a mental note of that if the starter is part of the problem and we end up with spark tommorow but not at the right time. The red light on the computer flashes, does that mean the computers fine. I just talked to my friend and it's getting over 12V in the engine bay and it stays a bit over 10v when cranking and if i remeber correctly the computer only needs 7v so the 99.9% solution of a bad battery can't be it.

I just finished a bunch of work on my r32 GTS-T with an RB20det and it wont start. Their is no spark and their is no fuel comming out the injectors. The work i did to the car included the following: - 4" intercooler - Front Facing intake manifold - Greddy TD05 turbo upgrade kit - my own custom intercooler piping and intake -TurboSmart boost controller - NISMO adjustable fuel pressure reg - NISMO solid shifter - 6 puck clutch - 5.3kg flywheel - Greddy catch can - Greddy oil filter relocation - Greddy air breather - HKS full Superdragger exaust with decat - Mines instrument cluster upgrade (320km/h speedo, 10,000rpm GTR tach) - Mines ecu chip (28pin plug very professionally soldered in with stock chip currently in place) - Battery relocated to trunk with 2 Gauge POWER and 4 Gauge GROUND silver soldered to the factory battery wires (not grounded in trunk??) and this is with a brand new battery. The Battery box also has a Surge Guard custom mounted in it with a battery shut of switch custom mounted to it and the connections to the terminals are gold plated items from Stinger. It's at my buddies shop and just had the clutch put in as i couldn't do that myself and after the install they couldn't start the car. It would turn over and get no spark or fuel. After checking the voltage to the block he said the starter was grounding out power to the block making the block have a 9.5v reading when it should only have a .5V reading, this should make the computer shut down the injectors and spark for safety. He's retireing this year and has seen it happen 4 times in his entire career and if the starter is the problem then it's #5. Has anyone heard of this??? He gets a reading of 0v from the block with the key in the on position and then when the starter is running he gets a reading of 9.5v when he says it should only be .5v maybe 1.5v tops. ??? I did take the CAS off and painted it up to match the paint of a few other things in the engine bay and this peice on the end of the shaft looked broken (came out smoothly with a tight fit and it only fit in with the shaft in one position. Should this be a problem as i didn't break it to begin with and it was back in the same position as i removed it. Mechanic says it should still run if the CAS was a problem and if it was out of wack it would just run bad. Whats your guess, were gonna try and switch over the nose from my starter onto a 01' Hyundai accent starter and try it tommorow. Anyone know because theirs no one who really knows RB's anyone near me. I must get it running so i can punish it for this on the drag strip and parking lots. ??????????

I want to make a custom bracket for my NISMO adj fuel press reg on the fuel filter side of the engine bay and want to know if i could put mt little Turbosmart boost controler their also?? will the extra vacume hose effect anything as i've seen pictures of zzzzzzzturbonetics boost controllers plumbed inot the cabin of the car (ugly. ????

Now the question is rednecked in or fit in?

I've got a TurboTech boost controller for the Greddy TDO5 16G turbo i'm gonna put on my R32 RB20det. But this is only so i can run 1 bar with steel internals till i get the parts together for the HKS TO4E .50AR turbo i got in the mail with a Synapse 40mm wastegate so i wanna get one of thoes all black Greddy Profec B Boost controllers with Low Boost, High Boost and Gain control for a simple clean look. My problem is that i can't stand 90% of the boost controller and other such items that end up getting 3M stuck on the dash. I would like to mount it in one of the 2 DIN in my dash. Most likely above the CD player. To me it looks like it might fit perfect and unless a dipshit desighned it, i would expect it to actually be DIN size as a rectangle in any other size would be rather pointless as most dashes aren't flat and dont have enough space behind to cut a hole and mount anywhere. WxH are what i need the depth doesn't really matter just the face of it?????????????????? ?

It's still on the flat floor? or is it on an angeled part?

must have been the bad angle because it made no sence to me having 3. So should i plug the fittings right off the block or connect them?

I was lookin at my turbo yesterday tryiny to fugure out the install of a td05 and it looked to me that their were 2 skinny lines and the big oil return fitting. Is one of these lines for oil and one coolant? Which ones which?

Wheres the computer?

If it's been done then it' a good thing. I'll bring it to a Fab and machine shop i used to work at, their never really busy and i know an amazing TIG welder that i'd make sure did it all. The worst that could happen is they somehow f**k up the turbo and i get them to have a Gt2860 or 71 shipped to me with a Jap Speed screamer pipe which will be the very clear fix to the problem before they even touch it. Instead of having a groove machined out i'll just have a peice of scrap 10 guage formed to fit and a $5 peice of galvanized exaust pipe from an auto store with a 90 degree bend already in it tig welded to the opening. I'll just have them pop that cap off with a die grinder and zip-cut and just have the excess cutting filled and grinded. Aslong as it's loud it's good. Plus i could see it flowing exaust gas more efficiently in the top end.

Has anyone modified the what looks like a highly inefficient exaust outlet to run a screamer pipe? It looks to me if you got a peice formed to match the opening that the wastegate lets gas through then took the stitch welded cap off and helded a peice of pipe that follows the angel of the dump pipe it would work. But has anyone done this??