JonTurpening

I have. That's just it. There is no difference in power at that rpm range with it plugged in or not. Here are two dyno plots the only difference in them is that we added about 1.5-2psi of boost and one had the valve plugged in and the other did not. There is no difference in the lower rpm range at all. (The 379 was plugged in and the 363 was not. we did a run at the same boost level with it plugged in and it was the same I just didn't get a print out of it.)

First off I'm not sure if my VCT is working. I have power going to the valve and I do hear a "click" coming from it when the throttle plate is opened. The thing is it makes no difference whether I plug the valve in or leave it unplugged. I've had it to the dyno 3 different times and the last time I made sure it was "clicking". The results were the same plugged in or not! Can someone tell me how I can test it to make sure it's working? I know I have 12v going to one side and like I said above I can hear and feel a "click" from it when I open the throttle plate and once again when I close it. Does it work off oil pressure? Can the passages get clogged? The car is making good power (379.5rwhp) but there is not 1hp difference plugged up or not! Thanks again guys for all your help!!

Had my car retuned. Here are the numbers and a list of mods. RB25det spec 2 GT3582R .82ar Jun style intake 90mm throttle body 550cc Delphi top feed low impedance injectors JGY fuel rail Aeromotive FPR Walbro 255hp fuel pump Tial 44mm v band waste gate Hallman boost controller 3" ss turbo back exhaust Top mount exhaust manifold Apexi Safc 2 Apexi ITC 93 pump gas Spec stage 3 clutch Synchronic BOV FMIC Z32 MAF blow threw This is a 2698lb with driver in it 240sx. This is at about 17.5 psi. This is rwhp.

Got the intake for it's benefits and I wanted to be able to run top fed low impedance injectors cause they respond faster and are allot cheaper and faster to replace then side fed high impedance injectors.

Not with the stock intake. I do have top feed injectors but I have a different intake. Sorry!

This stuff is ALLOT better then silicone. It "bonds" to the coil actually becoming part of it. It's hard and you can hardly cut or grind it off. To give you and idea of how it feels, if you have any urethane suspension parts or motor mounts that is how this stuff is! I actually made my motor mounts out of this stuff! They are way better then ANY of the mounts you can buy for the rb swap into the 240.

H@ME that green on your car is kick @ss! What green is that?

Here is a link to one of the better company's here in the states. This is where I bought mine! http://www.snowperformance.net/

I had it on my 1st gen eclipse and loved it! You just have to make sure if you have it tuned with the water/alcohol that it always has some in the tank! I had a warning light hooked up to mine to tell me when the tank was getting low. Almost all the rally cars have it on them.

If these factors are true for his application: B.S.F.C of .55 Max injector duty cycle of 95% With 6 injectors He will need at least 1013.15 cc injectors to get 1000 crank shaft hp at 40psi of fuel pressure. However, I have found on most turbocharged cars that the B.S.F.C is more around .60-.65. Also, I don't like to run any more then 80-85% duty cycle on my injectors.

I got it from a local Industrial supplier here in the US. They use it for everything from making urethane parts to coating just about anything! Here is a link online where you can get it. http://www.markingpendepot.com/browseprodu...-80-Liquid.html Here is a link to the specs. It says that the operating temp is 180F. I've not noticed Any problems with mine with my vented coil cover! http://www.freemansupply.com/datasheets/De...ne80-94-add.pdf

My coil packs went out on me on the dyno. Needless to say I was a little upset. So I started to search for a fix cause I'm cheap! LOL! All I could find was the old 3m tape trick. So I tried that and it worked for a little while. Then about 4-5 days later low and behold they started the same crap again! At this point I was about to bite the bullet and spend the money on Split fire coils. Before I did, I wanted to pull the coils out and see exactly what was going on! They were firing threw their plastic housing! There were small, I mean SMALL cracks in the plastic housings on about 4 of the coils. I hooked them up and started the car up and turned out all the lights in the shop! Talk about a light show!! This told me the coils themselves were actually working! It was just that there housings had failed. I'm a Honda tech by trade and I've seen a countless number of internal coils on Hondas go out due to the heat that they endure being inside of the distributor. Now on the Honda models that have the coil on the outside of the distributor away from all the heat, they never have a problem. Long story short it does appear to be a failure in the coil housing due to heat. So I set out to see if I could remedy the housing problem. (Since the coils still seemed to be firing good.) I looked around at allot of coatings and the like but I remembered how I had made my motor mounts in my car! I used a two part urethane. It's called Flexane. It's made by a company named Devcon. Heck it was a real good urethane that could be brushed on or even used to dip things in. So I decided to give it a try. I bought 2 of the kits and mixed about ½ of the first kit up and gave all the coils a good coat, making sure not to get it on the plug area or the side that connects to the spark plugs. I took off the rubber boot on the bottom and used some plastic plugs to make sure I didn't get any in the hole. I also didn't coat where the electrical connection plugs into the coil. Make sure you don't put any under where the plug will go also. I did this and ended up having to cut off the urethane so that the electrical plug would snap all the way onto the coils. I hung them up using some wire to let them dry for about 4 hours or so. I mixed another ½ batch of the Flexane up and gave them all another good coat. I let them set another 4 hours and repeated the step again. I let them set overnight and gave them one more good coat. Now you don't want to get too carried away. This stuff builds up fast. If you put too much on you'll not be able to get the coils back in their retainer! I let them set over night again. I put them back on the car the next day and ran the car HARD! It ran great! I pulled the plugs back out and re-gaped them to 1mm and drove the car again. I put about 50 miles of hard driving on them and they worked GREAT!! Not miss firing or spitting at all! I got the car back on the dyno and it ran great. I've put over 600 miles on the car so far and have not had the slightest problem out of it! I was also considering going with the wasted spark set up but this has worked great so far!! Here is a picture of the coils coated before I put them in the car!

so thats about 402whp. Sounds good! I've noticed on the dyno thread for the rb25 that alot of guys post up the shoot out mode on the dyno graph. Not sure if is the same as what my tuner is calling shoot out mode or not. Could someone clear up what Shoot out mode on the Dynodynamics there means?? My tuner is telling me it's crank hp. Is this what you guys are calling it??

Thanks so much! I am way more familer with US market engines. I.E the VQ35, 4g63, 2jz and the like. I'll have to put the money out on a good set of coils first then it'll be a haltech! Thanks again guys! I'm happy with the power it's making now as the car is light. Can't wait to get a Haltech, coils and fix the boost creep!

Was that in shoot out mode or at the wheels?