IDO 11S R32

This is what I will probably do on the next build, but as stated I have to stay to a buget, which unfortunatly is not 50K, wish I did have 50K, would have shopped around an bought an R34 GTR, theres an R34 NUR at J-Spec inports for 77k. I would snap that up if I had the cash! Had another go removing the turbos, almost there! Have decided to go the -5 and will have them soon.

Are these the ones from ebay with the GTR logo embroided in them?

Yes front and rear seats and all inserts, door and rear.

Dont think there will be any coin left over after the build, will definantly go over, got a quote to retrim the interior, $2700 for full leather retrim in black and gray with the GTR logo embroided in the seats? Is this a good price?

Yes thanks, Im begining to think thats what will happen to me. No but really, I have the bolt on parts, I will fit them and leave it up to my tuner to tune the car right (tame tune) Then I will drive the car, if it breaks the I will deal with that then, but like I have said, I dont do track days, it will go to WSID once or twice but thats it, its just to get me to work and back and go cruizing with mates on the weekends. ANyway did you get the cash I put into your account for the 2WD switch? I look forward to some sideways action!

I said "Its what I would LOVE to achieve, I didnt say I would get there." I do understand the extra $$$ and work involved in getting there and thats with the engine alone, then you have to consider, brakes/suspension/geabox/driveshaft etc.. But hey we can all have dreams cant we!!! But remember the price of parts for these cars has reduced dramaticly so I guessing it wouldnt cost as much to build today as it did 6 years ago. But like I said if I can get to a figure between 300-350awkw I will be estatic and from what I have read and have been told it should make no less then 280awkw.

The boost level you are running is fine, my car had a similar problem, take it to a good tuner and they will sort it out for you. It could be a number of things. With my car it was found that the coils were stuffed, they were replaced, still not 100%, then they checked the fuel pressure and found it was dropping under load, this was a simple fix as it was just the pump not earthing properly, ran a new earth wire, then fixed a couple of air leakes and the car ran perfectly! Your car may have different issues but you should take it to someone who knows GTR's like Hills Motorsport or CRD, they are abit pricey but they know what they are doing, if you take it to someone who is not familier with the car then you are just paying them to experiment on it! And it will probably cost you more in the long run. I know this from experience, I once took a car I owned to a tuner who was cheap, but because he was unsure of what he was doing he ended up spending more time on the car and ended up costing more then the well know guy who quoted me more but was more of a specialist on that particular car. So do it right the 1st time.

Yes, I am actually cruious about how the -5 perform (from owners who are currently using them), I have been told that they have only slightly more lag then stock but with a huge top end, Like I said, I currently have a pair of ball bearing T25s, they come on boost instantly from almost any rpm, I love that, its really good to drive, BUT, I can feel the difference when I drive my mates R33 GTR, he has stock turbos, you can feel the extra lag but when they come on you can feel the extra torque. I am worried about loosing responsiveness but I want it to pull hard, Im all about in gear acceleration, I dont like smashing it off the line as I believe this destroys your drive train (even in a GTR), but in gear acceleration, when your cruzing along at 60kmph, and put your foot down and the car hauls ass like a bat out of hell, thats when you know you've got power. Right now I have just about no lag at all, but it does run out of puff early. Its a hard choice, you can argue about what turbos to use till the cows come home but its much of a muchness, I mean when your compearing turbos like the HKS and Garretts, they are all good and designed for a spesific purpose, each individual owner has to decide what they want from there car and then rely on their tuner to guide them in the right direction with turbo choice. Now I have told CRD what I want from the car, and they have recomended the -5, now this came from Jim at CRD, and I believe he knows what he is talking about, he knows the car insde out and has probably tuned 1000s of GTR with different set up's, this is what he recomended, so its still up in the air but I am still leaning towards the -5's at this stage. I know its a slightly different kettle of fish but if you can get your hands on the latest ignition dvd and watch the Dutton R32 GTR, that this is awesome! over 400awkw -5 turbos 10.2 q/m. Thats a level I would love to achieve, obviously finances dont allow at this stage, but I consider this stage 1. If I was certain that I would not be doing further mods to the car then I would go for a smaller turbo thats more responsive, but I know myself and I will no doubt want more once Im used to the extra power stage 1 will achieve. Will decide by the end of the week what turbos I will be using. But it will either be the -5 or -7.

Yeah I hear what your saying, thanks for the input, this all helps me, I am considering the -7? which are probably similar to the GTSS, however again if in 12 months I want more, then I can pull the motor out do cams, head, sump, and run the -5's to 400awkw, whereas the GTSS or -7 will be at their peak efficency now! I am a power junkie, I am addicted to HP, I lov everthing fast and always want more, so I can see myself upgrading as soon as the finances allow, so this is why I and leaning towards the -5, but I do understand what you are saying, for what I am doinf NOW, the GTSS or -7 will be the best choice of turbo right NOW. But I am thinking ahead!

Yes I know about the oil problems, but at this stage my security is an oil cooler to increase oil capasity and an oil catch can to minimise blowby, I will also be keeping revs moderate, and I do not bounce my car on the rev limiter and will seldem be doing hard launches as this is usually not possible in peak hour traffic. Remember this is a daily driver which I will take out for a weekend squirt once in a blue moon. If the engine shits itself travelling at 60kph in 5th gear on the M4 in morning traffic then the car must really be a shitbox, and I think they are abit stronger then that. Even now with the two stage boost controler set at .6 bar and 1.1bar. When driving it spends 95% of the time at .6 as I dont feel the need to run the higher boost when driving to and from work, its just nice to have it there when I want to fry some rubber!!!!

Sorry how much what?

Thanks for the advice, I think I said that the HKS are not that much more expensive when taking into account the cost of the gaskets, I am still unsure about what turbos to go for, Like I saidm I have ordered the -5 but they are taking forever to get here, from what CRD have told me they are a good all round turbo thats not too laggy but with a strong mid and top end. I can get a set of -7 cheaper then the -5 and they will be suitable for the power level I am after, but they will be at their peak and if I wish to go further down the track, I will need to replace the turbos again, now the -7 will have less lag and a better mid range, but will fall short up top. I really dont know . At the end of the day I would like a turbo thats on par with the 2530 HKS, CRD have advised me that the -5 is a better turbo and would suit my needs, they are the experts and thats their opinion, they have done nothing wrong by me so far and I feel they have looked after me, they did an excellent job in tuning my car and fixing a number of small problems with no stuffing around, sothis has influenced my decision. But still abit confused, and now it makes it harder as the car is apart and needs to be put back together ASAP!!

Dont know if you can get htem sepertly, might have to buy the whole unit again unless you find someone who is selling a second hand part. I just bought a Blitz i-colour dsbc new from Japan $650 posted, my sister is over there at the moment, I thought I was getting a bargin till my phone bill arrived!!! at over $150 in calls to Japan!!! Anyway SUch is life, i guess. Good luck. I would first check that it is connected properly 1st and if it is and there is a still a problem then you should probably just buy a new one. Just take it easy till it is all sorted. Goodluck

Godzilla32 is selling a standard pump with pics in the add, you can look at the pics and see if yours if different, Like I said, an N1 pump has an extra screw on the backplate. thats the easiest way to tell.

Check out the previous listings on this topic, or google it, you will be able to find pictures of a n1 pump next to a standard pump, I also recently bought one and I believe the n1 has 7 screws as aposed to 6 on the standard, also if you remove the screws on the cover the gearing on the inside is like a wave pattern. Just google it to confirm, if you cant find anything pm me and I will take a photo of mine and send it to you, just too lazy to go into the garage and get it right now.

Cubes, be nice, just because the 33s have an akward ass doesnt mean you can make fun of them :laughing-smiley-014:

Thats what we are all waiting for! I mean surely it cant last! But it is still going, I'll let you know if it lets go. I think if you get 300rwkw you shuld be able to get into the 11s but you have to be hard on the car, thats why he broke the drive shaft, snapped it clean. But I think at that power level 10s is abit optimistic, but 11s is achievable.

I think your being abit optimistic, again remember these are street cars with average drivers, maybe if it was a fully set up drag car, with all suspension and proper tyres and gutted interior this might be achieved. He was running slicks but no doubt they were the cheapest second hand set he could get his hands on. I should also add that the 11.8 pass was with massive wheelspin off the line. ANyway its an indication, I think if you are building a car you should look at the worst it should do and if you do better you will be happy, If the author of this thread goes to the track aiming for a high 11s pass and gets a low 11 he will be happy. If he goes aiming for a 10 and has a few bad runs and cant better a 12 then he will have the shits.there is too many vairables to say what it will run but I believe that on a street car that is used everyday an 11s pass is awesome. Thats my 2c

Cant remember the mph, think it was in the 120s though, Look I know this guy through a mate and we went to the runs together a few times. I am only stating what times he did and what power he said it made as an indication to the author of this thread, if it is a shit time for that power level then maybe it doesnt make that much power, I dont know??? But I think that thats pretty awesome for a backyard build on a gtst.

I dont know full details of the car but its been at WSID a few times lately, last time I saw him there he snapped a drive shaft. Maroan R33 GTST, I know he has a greddy plemium, 1000cc inj, power fc, forged internals, boost controler, and you probably wont believe this (nobody does) but he is using a $400 full ceramic turbo that he bought off ebay, I only know that its a top mount and its quite large. He says that it makes 310rwkw, I havnt seen the papers, But I was there and watched it do an 11.8 q/m so I know it does the times.

How much do you want? But I dont just want you to do it, I want to learn how its done, thats why I am trying to do most of the work myself. I live a stones throw from WSID so dont know if it is too far out of your way or not. You tell me what you charge and I'll think about it. . Like I said I am trying to stick to a budget.

The car is my daily driver, I have 3 young children so do not have time for track days, unfortunantly, I do however race gokatrs, so I get some enjoyment that way. I just want a good fast street car. I will take it to WSID after it is completed but only to see what it will do, I will probably only go there once. It is going to be a street car, I will be leaving the oil pump and cams for now, when I go that next step I will make sure I have the finances to also do the sump/brakes etc.. No point pulling the motor out to do a half assed job. So for now it will be, Turbos, injectors, boost controler, fuel pressure reg, fuel pump, Power FC, cam gears, intercooler, oil cooler, inercooler pipe kit and oil catch can. The car already has some of these parts on it, I have just done the brakes fitting DBA cross drilled rotors and Bendix ulitmate pads, the car also has TEIN coilovers, so suspension is good (for the track) a little harsh for the road if you ask me though. Will see how much power it makes like this and then decide if I am going to take it further, If I do it wont be for a while, as it will call for alot of saving! P.S: T04GTR, what parts can you help me with?? know where I can get manifold studs?

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll get there though!

Didnt get a chance to do anything today, but here are a couple of pics, sorry they dont show much, just how bloody hard it is to remove these turbos!

Yes I think GTR32U is on the money.