IDO 11S R32

Dont know, will post a pic, it has coilovers, this is the next thing I will sort out, I noticed today that the drivers side rear is lower then the passenger side rear by about 10-15mm. Dont know if this would effect it, front isnt that low though. I have had the car for about two months and it has only just started doing this I haven't touched the suspension since purchasing it.

Hi, I have an R32 GTR, when I take off the front torque split goes to max on the guage. I recently fitted a TSC (torque split controller and thought it might have been faulty but I removed it today and it still does the same thing? As soon as the car rolls, either forward or backward it all binds up, the rear diff locks, as if it were a locker diff and the car fights itself to move. When I was reversing on a slight incline today I noticed that the car wouldnt roll dawn the incline when it was running but when I turned the car off you caould feel everything release and the car started rolling down the incline. Start the car and it would all bind up again. Tyres are all the same. I read a post where someone checked for error codes on the ATTESSA computer, can someone also tell me where the computer is and how to check for the error codes. At the moment the TSC has a 2WD switch, and when I leave it in 2wd it is fine, so I am driving around in 2wd mode, I am thinking that this could also mean the the G force sensor in the car is stuffed as this is what the TSC is wired into but this could also be masking another problem somewhere else in the drive train. I have done everthing I can think of to resolve the problem but to no avail. I swapped the front and rear tyres around as I recently fitted new tyres to the front (same brand and size) but was told that the different wear may have caused the problem, I now know this was not the problem. Has anyone had this problem and can shed some light on this for me?????? HELP!!!

Ok, I have done some testing an elliminated some things, I changed the diff oils and gearbox oil, I checked the wireing to the TSC and found that it has all been done correctly. What I have found was that when taking off from a standing start it goes to max front torque and stays there until I accelerate, If I try to turn the car while it is like this then it all feels locked up, especially in the rear, its as if I have a locker diff with the inside wheel skipping as I turn. However if I accelerate so the front torque goes down to normal then I can turn the car and it is fine. So I think that I either have a problem with the ATTESSA computer or the TSC is no good? Has anyone ever had this problem???? I have also recently put new tyres on the front but they are the same size and brand as the rear, so the fronts are 100% and the rears about 30%, but surely this wouldnt affect the ATTESSA. If anyone has any ideas please let me know, the next thing I will do is disconnect the TSC altogether and see if that works.

Thanks for the info, I actually went down and had a look at some of the Cooling Pro stuff the other day, I think beer baron is right, their stuff is good for the price but there is a HUGE difference in build quality, I took a mate with me who is a boiler maker and he had a good look at them, he said they were ok but the wealds were a bit ????? THe jap stuff is much better quality but at 3 times the price, however will probably last longer too, I will be sticking to the jap stuff just for peace of mind (intercooler and oil cooler), however I will be buying the cooling pro radiator, will see how it goes. Thanks for all the feedback!

No not yet, I havent had time, been busy with work, will do some testing on the weekend and post the results, if I cant get it working I will disconnect it altogether and see how it goes. But I am pretty sure it was connected perfect, I used a soldering iron and heatshrink on all connections, but will have to check them.

Hi, would be interested in the pump, anyway I can contact you?

Hi, just wondering what fluid do you use for the ATTESTA system in the GTR's. I have an R32 GTR, just want to top it up?

Thanks, I will check the TSC connectors again, just for further info it only does this now in reverse and only when it is in 4WD mode, in 2WD mode the car is normal, forward or reverse. It is quite weird, like I said, if you reverse in a straight line it is fine, only when you reverse and turn does it seen to lock up. THe car literally stops and requires about 2000rpm and some clutch riding to get it moving and you can feel that it is struggling. If I cant find anything wrong with the TSC I will disconnect it and see how it goes. I will post the results for information of others. Thanks

I have done more testing, I have found now that it is not the rear diff, as stated I recently fitted a TSC (tourque split controler) maybe I have done something wrong, when I run it in 2WD mode the car runs fine and the diff works fine, when I run it in 4WD mode and take off, the front tourque indicator guage goes to 50, no matter how gentle and you can feel it load up. When I reverse it does the same thing but when I try to turn and reverse it locks up. Now could this be the TSC confusing the ATTESSA system or could I have a problem with the transfer case??????? Has anyone ever fitted a TSC and had simmilar problems?

Hi, yes that would be ok but this is where we have problems, 1st, It had cam gears fitted however because of the crap computer, (its an old EMS which cannot be connected to a laptop and must be tuned with a hand controler) the cam gears cannot be tuned. Or so I am told, also I would like to get it quick as a street car, I like the fact that I can drive to the track race then drive home, and excatly how I drove it to the track I drive it to work the next day. When I did a 12.8 that was with 1/2 tank fuel, cheap road tyres and subs stereo, spare tyre, work bag all in the car, exactly how I drive it every day, so I believe this is a true indication of what the car can do. Of course if I strip it bare and run slicks it will be quicker, but thats not my goal. Thanks anyway

Dont the V-spec have brembo brakes? what does yours have? The engine and drivetrain is the same from a normal to a V-Spec, I am pretty sure the only differences were how the ATTESSA was set up, brakes, suspension and a few other little mods, I think the main thing would be the brakes though?

HI guys, today when driving my R32 GTR I noticed that when turning at low speed the car would stop. I have checked it by driving in a car park, and it seems like the rear diff is locked, when you turn the inside wheel has to break traction, therefore requireing more throttle to turn the car, it goes fine in a straight line, there seems to be no diff slap or knock. I have had the car for about a month now but have never noticed this before. Is my diff about to shit itself or is thos normal, I called a couple of workshops but they want to see the car, they said it may be fitted with an aftermarket diff, if so I think it would be strange that I haven't noticed it till now, I drive the car every day? Has anyone else had a similar problem? The only recent mod I have done is fit a Tourque split controler. The car drives fine but whenever you turn, wheather going forward or backward it now requires extra force to move the car? HELP?

Yes, do you know much about the car?

Thanks, will be tuned by the boys at CRD, its what they recomended as it will also support any future mods. Have you installed on and how hard was it?

HI guys and gals, just want to pick your brains again, I am upgrading the computer on my R32 GTR along with alot of other mods, looking at a power figure of between 350-400awkw. Should I use a standard power fc and update the AFM to nismo or Z32 units? or should I get rid of the AFM's and buy a dejetro and run map sensors? I have priced them at Nungun will be about the same total cost either way at the end? When I say total cost this includes pipeing, filters and all adaptors.

Thanks for the info, just didn't quite understand this part, are you saying that the stock radiator is better then the cooling pro one, or are you also using the cheap oil cooler and use the cooling pro radiator to improve cooling?. If so what oil cooler are you using? Thanks again for the info, just want to make sure I buy the right products.

Quote was from CRD, although I think he said he would do it for $900 cause I was also buying other parts, But that is still more then double the just jap item. You know any places in Sydney that are selling them cheaper? Would love to know

Yeah, dont plan on doing any track work, just a daily driver, but I want it to be reliable, the main reason I ask is that Trust cooler of the same diamentions I have been quoted $1300, or $500 for the cooling pro unit, oil cooler, $1200 for a trust unit, or $400 for cooling pro? There is a substantial difference in price, now obviously the Trust units will be better quality, but for street use how reliable is the cooling pro stuff? Its good to know that you havn't heard any problem with them, I just want to do abit of research before committing to buy, ifthey are no good I will ust have to fork out the extracash and get the Trust units?

Ok, I am aiming for 350awkw, will be changing turbos, cams, etc, how good is the stock radiator? Not that it is too much an issue, I really want to know what the cooling pro intercoolers are like, and the oil coolers sold by just jap? Thanks

Hi, I am modifying an R32 GTR, I will be replacing the stock intercooler, adding an oil cooler, catch can and I'm thinking about changing the radiator. Now what I want to know is, has anyone used the Cooling Pro stuff sold by Just Jap, If so what is it like? All these items I have listed I was thinking about buying from Just Jap, the cooler is their Drag spec which is a bar and plate 600x300x120 with 3in inlets. I was also looking at the 19 row super light oil cooler kit, catch can and 3 core radiator. Has anyone used these products from Just Jap, or had any problems with them? They are quite cheap in comparison to name brand items, but what is the quality like?

Dont know, I just got the plates about a week ago, bought the car about two months ago and just wanted to personalise it.

Im only new to the scene and dont know too much, I have an r32 GTR, it also idles high, it is caused from a air leak in one of the vacum lines, so I would check them all carefully first. If you have the stock cat in it, you should be able to get 10-20 rwkw from fitting a high flow metal cat. I had the same problem in my GTR, when I got it and had it tuned, it really died off up top, I changed the cat and it made a huge difference, 15awkw. Yours is a rwd so might make abit more if you change it but you'll still fall short of 300rwkw, How good is the tuner you took it to? A mate of mine took his r33 to a tuner and got 213awkw@21 pound boost, he wasn't happy with the result, I took him to the boys at CRD (Croyden Racing development) they charge abit but do a fantastic job, they got him 260awkw on the same boost. The car was a jet when it left there. So tuning has alot to do with it. I would say do your research and find a good tuner, good luck!!

I'm not running stock 32 turbos, at the moment it is fitted with stock R34 turbos which are actually smaller then 32 turbos but are a roller bearing turbo with steal blades. The advantage of being smaller is they come on boost instantly, the disadvantage is they dont stay on for long, it has a tendancy to run out of legs above 6000rpm, it comes on from about 2500rpm. This is why I am cautious of what turbos I use, I will be changing them, but I really dont want to loose the responsiveness, it is quite awsome at the moment, until it runs out of steam that is. But I know I can t have everything, I just want to get the happy medium.

Hi, could please tell me which N1's you got, the 2869R-5 or 2860R-7? and what sore of power are you making? Im not sure which ones to buy, the -5's make more power but with a little more lag, the -7's are suposed to be quite responsive but max out at 350awkw.

motor was built by Rigoli, recipts for work, previous owner was actually related to him. Work was done 3 years ago car has done 30k since rebuild, they are cheap prices you have quoted which leads me onto my next lot of questions, are these cheaper items as good? Just jap do a cooling pro intercooler for $400, CRD want $1300 for a bar and plate trust unit? Just jap do an oil cooler for $400, CRD said they would sell me a trust unit for $900, again Just jap do a catch can for $200, CRD do a custom built item for $500. I get nervious when going for cheaper items cause I only want to buy things once. With the turbos, I was going to go a pair of HKS 25/30 purely because thats what the Mines R34 GTR uses and that thing is a jet!!! check it out on youtube if you haven't already, but CRD rekon the N1's are a better item and are $500 cheaper. I looked them up on the net, the -5 flow 360hp each, or I could go the -7 which flow 310hp each but obviously les lag. The stock r34 turbos on the car now are good and come on boost instantly, but you can really feel them flatten out up top, the car really starts to die off after about 6000rpm. But I wonder if this is because of the low boost? CRD told me that I wont get much more then 250awkw with these turbos? This is how I feel when I start thinking about this???