DR 32R

Used car values including gtrs are soft at the moment.

Did you install the crank collar engine in? Any risk of engine on head (of installer)?

If he buys an r32 gtr, a move which makes sense to me, when the engine has a problem, (quite often clutch electricals, ATESSA, suspension as well), where will he go? A workshop as many on this forum do. He could remove the existing engine and donor engine, with friends and an engine crane source parts, to control his costs.

To do that is both engine and crankshaft out. Might as well do it when it has a planned or unplanned complete rebuild.

Is the GTR legal and rego'd there? Does your life consist of working on customer cars, then working on your own projects? Seems OK to me.

+1 My experience was good trade in value, no high pressure to deal with.

He would have to track down a Stagea Neo all wheel drive RB25, agree better cylinder head and rods.

The GTS4 gives you the cheapest all wheel drive chassis, which you own already. This is an example of the type of Stagea set up you could buy. An upgrade turbo or highflow turbo, could see you performing better than a stock tired GTR. Potentially you could have the GTR performance envelope, and more money in the bank. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370511948278&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I'm doing the Stagea swap. All wheel drive rb25, I agree with giving thought to a r 32 GTR. There is a lot of satisfaction in doing a swap, rb26s are getting cheaper. If you did both a rebuild and a transplant it will add up quickly. If you buy a 32gtr you could also be sorting out a motor and wear and tear any way. Most people will tell you GTR. I still think a gts4 with swap is interesting. With you Vic address have you looked at legalities of the swap? If you're buying a GTR why not get a later model 33 or better still 34 and just service it, a 32 is often a rebuild/restore etc.

I've got a Magna all wheel drive, amazing handling, very low running and insurance costs, a keeper and I mean it. Mentioned to me by a colleague who worked with police when they ran them and liked them.

Nice build, good to see an rb25 being built. I don't see many greddy oil pumps, pleasant change.

Pretty much a straight swap.

You need to add an enlarged and baffled sump.

Having been driving an F6, I've often wished it was an easily transplanted engine. 4 litres helps spooling and off boost.

Because it's not that much effort? I also didn't change it all to dead stock... I spent a long time weighing up the positives and negatives. Consider this. I paid 15k for my car when I bought it. At the time I did the conversion last year, there is no chance I would have got 13k for it. The conversion including all parts (necessary parts, not optional parts that I chose to use) cost me about 6-7k. So by the time my car was essentially a GTT, perhaps I could have sold my car and bought a car worth 20k. So yes, perhaps I could have bought a factory GTT. And yet for the same price, I got so much more. Even if you ignore all the parts that I upgraded (too many to list off the top of my head), the experience was priceless. I have done too much to my car to consider owning a different one. If I was to sell my car, it would only be to move away from the high performance scene. I agree a build is the learning and the "experience". Having selected, "held", been involved with your cars performance parts, is something I find more interesting than just trading cars and retail therapy.

For the complexity of a plus T go further, built motor and Turbo up grade, aim to keep it at least another 4-5 years. You could just drive it another year and plan on a r34gtr, hoping prices drop. Most used car values are heading south fast.

+1 Stagea RB25. You need a all wheel drive block to replace the all wheel drive RB20 block. I'm doing this as well. The alternative that is getting cheaper is an RB26dett, from an r33 gtr onwards (good crank oil pump drive from the factory). Any thing you do will have traction as well as power over the soarer, as well as looks.

The bill for the Hypertune one off plenum, fuel rail, (plannning ID2000 injectors), and 90mm throttle body, was solid, got to pay the bill for the street head port as well at the end of last months other bills....solid accounts. This months is bite the bullet with the oil pump. I'm initially trying Nismo, non N1 pump with hardened steel gears (not an N1). Using the N1 water pump. Gaskets are a mix of factory Nissan, but using the Tomei RB25 det head gasket.

May be the Nitto drag gasket or this type of cometic gasket http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170265148970&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I notice the Nitto and the latest Cometic gasket have an in built O ring that gos with the larger bore 88mm. I think this compensates. I wonder if the O ring sealing really helps with head lifting high boost, or is a gimmick. I'd prefer Tomei at this stage.

Still following your fantastic build. When you get there, I think it deserves a better than GTR spec engine.

Are you going for the gears or the Nitto pump?

RB 25 gasket, then depends on overbore if done. Eg 87mm bore gasket for 86mm rebored to 86.5mm. Thickness depends on calculated compression ratio after ccing the head, and measuring how close the pistons reach the top of the engine block deck. This will depend on the rods and pistons you chose etc.

I'm looking for something more factual in this thread. A stock oil pump broke at revs, a common occurence especially with stock oil pump gears and stock narrow pump drive. You blame the balancer. I've gone to the expense of the ATI myself, on the advice of the experience of my engine shop, but unlike the stock oil pump breaking I haven't seen as much specifically caused by the balancer you mention.

r34 gtt more modern and civillized.