neofenrir34

That number is a good number depending on a few other things with your care

Are u sure they are studs my listing has them as bolts in any case Part No. 14434-V0301 and gasket No. is 14415-4P200

front seal where prop shaft goes into sump part No. 38189-03V00

sorry bout late reply. Part No.21082 05U00

sorry bout late reply. There are 4 different part numbers for the MFD less the housing 2 for pre 08/00, and 2 for post 08/00 Pre 24845 AA414 Pre 24845 AA415 Post 24845 AA416 Post 24845 AA417 the housing is seperate Part No. 68411 AA400. hope it all help

RHF 80834-01U00 LHF 80835-01U00 RHR 82834-01U00 LHR 82835-01U00

i would so no, none of the numbers line up

Pickup pipe Part No. for R32, R33, R34 15050-05U02 Gasket part No. R32 15053-V5001 ( o'ring) Gasket Part No. R33, R34 15053-1E400

part No.48521-24U00

fairly sure that the part No. for the ignition coils is 22448 25U00. not sure which seal u are reffering to as the main seal in front diff. and can't find the gasket you are talking about for the ATTESSa actuator

Part No. 46210-6L110 RHF, 46211-6L110 LHF, 46210-21U17 X2 Rear hoses

Part No. 30610-05U01

Hi- I need the part number number for the centre mesh grille (between the headlights on the Nismo model) for a R34 GT-t. The VIN no. is 6u90000cr34006857 Paint Code is QM1 and build date ie 06/09 regards Carey Sorry bout forrgeting to check back. for future referance u can drop off the 6U90000 from the beginingof the vin japanese vins are only bout 10 digits long they add the 6U part when they do the compliance stuff because australian vins are 17 digits long. Also it ER34 not CR34 (fsecond picture) Part NO. to suit QM1 code 62310 AB104. not applicable for your year model car/vin unless it has the type of bar that is in the first pic hope it all helps

there are 6 different option need to know paint code. also year model an month to make sure

PART NO. 48520 15U26 LHF & RHF PART NO. 55725 0C800 RHR & LHR

MARKO R1. SOUNDS GOOD TO ME I CAME UP WITH THE SAME NUMBERS

FRONT WINDOW SEALANT KIT-GLASS NO. G2891 89925. PIT WORK PART NO.KA463 00097

Part NO. 63842 15u000 RH Part NO. 63843 15U000 LH

lucky in that case. if you can get a hold of some splitfire's i highly recamend them my car has never felt as good to drive. but on the down side it likes like the slight increase in torque has brought a weak/old clutch to my attention.

just thought i would update the status of my car. i replaced the coil packs on the weekend an as yet have had no problems. so looks like it was coils

would like a vin to confirm but fairly sure the part No# is 46010-0V600. Your car is a 4WD with a RB26DETT correct? hence making it a AWC34

Part No# F2410-AA010. but i would expect them to be quite dificult to get a hold of now. better off tring to get a colour like white (QM1 and just paint them in TV2)

true it could also be the input shaft bearing

i know this post date is well after the last one but for any future referance. it's not TCS that is the problem it's the O2 sensor i had the same problem above 4 000rpm under load major problems tacho would jump from like 4 000- 7 000 rpm randomly the engine was not even doing that much. week or two later engine light started coming on (only when warm cause that is the only time the O2 sensor does anything) got it checked at work sure enough O2 code was there.

how long are u driving in a straight line for? on the older model's the HICAS ECU picks up that the car is going at speed but because it's in a straight line the ecu get tricked in to thinking that there is no signal or false signal from the steering angle sensor so it turns of the HICAS system to be on the safe side. not a major problem but still a problem. sorry but i can't remember any fixes for the problem. try looking on UK forums they have a lot of straight hiway/roads an i have read that a few people have found a fix for it hope this helps