neofenrir34

that noise does not sound like throw out to me more of a gearbox noise excessive play quite posiably. if there is a there is a throw out noise best way to test. is have car idling turn off music or what ever u may have going. and listen for any noise's then put your foot on the clutch and hear if any of the noise's go away. foot off the clutch (does it come back)? if so throw out noise lots of cars have some form of throw out noise

part No# 24825 21u01. tacho meter only

need help. i own a R34 GT25T stock (well no major mods) couple of week ago driving around not even pushing it at 2nd gear up a hill dong like 3000rpm got to the top of the hill and all of a sudden my TCS OFF, SLIP an CHECK ENGINE light all came on. but no problems with the car other wise. went back to work got the techs to put it on CONSULT an they came up with 3 things ENGINE IGN SIGNAL-PRIMARY (5 times) suggested problem part 23710-AA500 engine ECU ABS ENGINE SYSTEM (3 times) suggested problem part 47850-AA110 module anti skid HICAS CODE 54 (6 times) suggested problem part28505-AA101 HICAS control unit turned the car off then back on lights out still no problems now i dont think that all of these are independant problems i am thinking electrical fault. if any one has any thoughts on the matter that would be great

u sure it is a air intake sensor. fast calls it a coolant temp sensor part NO.22630-01u00. it is the part at front on intake with the 2263j label Doc2.doc

part No. 17042-05u00

no not a radiator man i am a parts man will have to get back to u on pricing

just so u know the correct working voltage of a battery is 12.3v any lower an u will start to have problems ask any auto electrican. cranking amps are not always a good indicater of battery condition

take it to a radiator shop and get the top tank replaced part NO.21412 04u00 plus seal changes depending on year model

that is how it is, Apexia the parent company of apexi was at the state of being declared bankrupt late last year. they are working back now but alot of there high end products are now hard to get ahold of. i was gonna go a PFC for my R34 but the thing is i can not get a hold of a new one because of that problem (similar problem to yours) as for the two systems they are much for muchness the simplicity and tune ability of the PFC. or the slightly more difficult to install and tune e11v2 which does have a few small things over the PFC ( but your not the one tuning it so doesn't matter) either way neither unit is bad. to prove the PFC anyway, i have a mate with a S13 SR20DET with a PFC not a problem and with 398rwkw last i saw it on a dyno it speaks for it's shelf. but to hard to get a hold of these days so enough said

are u sure it is backfiring and not missing. seems odd how it just started to do it after timing belt replacement. does it idle alright. it sounds to me more like the base timing or ignition timing is out it doesn't take much to affect it in high revs or under load. might be worth checking the ignition timing first as it is the easiest to check

i think u just must have typed the wrong thing. The CAS does not affect base timing. it affects ignition timing.

i could be wrong but it is my understanding that most skyline's should idle much higher then that. more like up around 800-850

don't know if this will help u but don't have access to the fast system at the moment. try looking with the brake piping i had to find a similar brake duct for a R34 GTR and that is where i found it

just to check u do mean the viscous fan, right the one that bolts to the water pump if that is not turning u do have a major problem. i can't not help with the part number at the moment because i am on holidays an don't have access to the nissan fast system. will let u know the part number when i can

i can tell you that they are the the same. i think the part NO. is 22680 31U00 i think it may have sup maybe 22680 31U05

for the fly wheel bolts i also got Part No. 12315 80S00 if it fall's between 0589 to 0789 production date

first picture is of the brake system on R32 GT-R and the second is of a R33 GT-R only the R32 has shims. part NO. 41218 12U26

i whould just check the diff have never come across a single diff that did not have the ratio stamped onto it some where with out a plate on it some where so why try and work it out?

never said you where not qualified at using the fast system. i am to. just saying that some dealers can not use the pitwork part number in their pricing system. just to make that clear

some different manifold's will cause the rear cyclinders to lean out not good if you are going to case big power levels if you are after some companies that make flow tested manifolds i would suggest plazmaman.com or hypertune.net. just for a start. plazmaman only really does inlet plenums

i am fairly sure you would already know this considering you are useing the nissan part finder system to get all of these numbers (figures that out be seeing the pic of the rear QTR glass window). but all of the numbers that start AY are pitwork part numbers. unless they know what they are doing some dealers can not use theat number in their system but if they know wat they are doing they can cross referance to a genuine nissan number.

i am getting some really bad fuel economy lately have been pushing to get 320km be for 3/4 empty mark. with full town driving. not overly heavy right foot

harmonic balancer dampens vibration made by the the crank. not frequences

should be the same go to your local nissan dealer and get them to check they should have that abillity r34 part gen part number is 15208-H8911AU. i work at a nissan dealer ship an i have that abillity. but can't remember at the moment. same as a N15 pulsar

i got my R34 done by a guy i know in gympie excellant work. only got the two door windows done $110. rear qtr glass an rear window are prvacy glass.(more or less black) got the front's not quite matching. not legal at all just drive with the window down. around town any way